HBL' Pocket Door Hardware Set – 2 Recessed Flush Finger Pulls & 1 Edge Pull, Made of 304 Stainless Steel, Template Included, Black.

What I installed and where

I put the HBL pocket door set on a solid-wood pocket door that separates a mudroom from a hallway. The door previously had a small round pull that always felt fussy, and getting the slab out of the pocket was a two-fingertip dance. I wanted a cleaner, more substantial grip, a low-profile look, and hardware that would stand up to humidity and everyday use. This set checks those boxes: two recessed flush pulls for the faces and an edge pull to grab the door out of the pocket, all in a matte black finish.

Before anything else: this kit is for solid wood only. If your door is hollow-core, you’ll need a different solution or to add blocking. The recess depth isn’t extreme, but it does require solid material behind it.

Materials, finish, and feel

The face pulls are 304 stainless steel—always reassuring for corrosion resistance, especially in bathrooms or laundry areas—finished in a smooth matte black. The edge pull is zinc alloy with the same finish. In hand, the flush pulls feel dense and well-machined, with softened edges that don’t bite your fingers. The finish is even, not chalky, and it resists fingerprints better than satin black alternatives I’ve used. After installation, both pulls sit low and clean against the door, with a modest rim that neatly frames the mortise.

The edge pull’s job is simple: give you a positive place to grab the door when it’s hidden in the pocket. This one does that without play or rattle, and it sits tidy when you’re not using it. The matching finish between stainless and zinc components is consistent; I didn’t see any color or sheen mismatch once installed.

Installation: what it actually takes

The kit includes hardware, a template, and a step-by-step guide. You can install it with a chisel, but a trim router makes this a straightforward, repeatable job. I used a compact router with a straight bit set to 10 mm (about 3/8") depth, per the spec. Here’s the condensed process I followed:

• Choose the height and mark a centerline on both faces of the door, making sure it clears any rails or panels and lands on solid material.
• Tape the template in place, trace, and mark the screw locations. The template saved me from creeping measurements and kept both sides aligned.
• Score the outline with a sharp knife to reduce tear-out, then rout to depth inside the lines. Clean up the corners with a chisel.
• Test-fit the cup; the design’s small lip will hide minor imperfections if your mortise is slightly proud or uneven.
• Predrill the screw holes, install the face pulls, then place the edge pull in the door’s leading edge at a height that lines up with the face pulls.

If you’re chiseling by hand, budget more time. Hardwood, especially oak, will punish dull tools. Go slow, score your lines, and work in shallow passes. Either way, clamp sacrificial blocks at the edges to prevent blowout, and check depth with a caliper or depth gauge as you go.

Time-wise, with a router, I spent about an hour on the first door (measure twice, fuss once) and around half an hour per side on a second pass. With only chisels, plan closer to two hours for a careful result.

A few practical notes:
- The recess is 4-3/4" long by 1-3/16" wide at 10 mm deep. On stile-and-rail doors, make sure you aren’t bridging a panel joint or landing over a void; shift your height to stay on solid wood.
- The 6" x 2" faceplate easily covered the old small round pull holes on my door, which made retrofitting painless.
- Black screws are included and matched the finish well.

Fit and usability

Once in, the difference is immediate. The grip volume is generous for a recessed pull, and the softened interior edges make it comfortable to slide the door with a couple of fingers. The long, vertical oval gives you more leverage than the typical small cup pulls you see on builder-grade doors. Because the pull sits flush, there’s nothing to snag clothing or scratch forearms when you pass by the opening.

The edge pull makes retrieving the slab from the pocket a non-event—you hook it with a fingertip and the door is out. The three-piece arrangement (two face pulls plus the edge pull) is a minimalist setup by design: no latch, no lock, no keeper. For spaces that need privacy or a positive latch, this isn’t the right kit; it’s for clean passage doors.

Design notes and compatibility

• Solid wood only. The 10 mm mortise depth is safe for standard 1-3/8" and 1-3/4" doors, but hollow-core skins will not support the hardware.
• Left/right neutral. You can mirror the install for either sliding direction.
• One set covers one pocket door. For paired pocket doors, plan on two sets; whether you need two edge pulls depends on how you use the doors.
• The matte black is an easy match for modern hinges and tracks. If you’re mixing metals in a space, the finish reads neutral rather than shiny.

Durability and maintenance

Stainless steel for the flush pulls is a wise choice: it’s corrosion-resistant and shrugs off the moisture swings a pocket door sees near bathrooms and exterior entries. After several weeks, the matte black finish has held up to daily use without visible wear or edge chipping. I wipe them with a damp cloth; avoid abrasive pads or ammonia-based glass cleaners that can dull black finishes over time. The zinc alloy edge pull feels solid and has shown no finish mismatch or looseness.

What could be better

• Installation skill curve. While the template and guide help a lot, this is still a routed mortise. DIYers without a router or comfortable chisel technique may find it daunting. A drill-and-rasp alternative template or a shallow-screw-on version would broaden the audience.
• No integrated lock. That’s by design, but it’s worth calling out: if you’re outfitting a bathroom or bedroom and need privacy, you’ll want a different set that includes a latch.
• Edge logistics on paneled doors. Because the recess length is 4-3/4", some paneled or battened doors may force your hand on placement to land on solid stock. Measure, then measure again.

Value

The combination of materials, finish uniformity, and the inclusion of a usable template makes this feel like a premium kit without a premium price. I appreciate that everything needed is in the box—no “oh, I need different screws” moment. For a small cost and a bit of shop time, the door’s ergonomics and look are significantly improved. Compared to store-brand pulls with thinner stock and sharper edges, this set feels and looks a tier up.

Specs that mattered to me

• Faceplate: 6" long x 2" wide
• Mortise (groove): 4-3/4" long x 1-3/16" wide x 10 mm deep
• Materials: 304 stainless steel (flush pulls), zinc alloy (edge pull)
• Finish: Matte black
• Kit: Two flush pulls, one edge pull, screws, template, install guide

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and pros updating solid-wood pocket doors who want a clean, modern look and a more substantial grip.
• Remodelers retrofitting older round pulls; the larger faceplate covers old holes.
• Anyone prioritizing corrosion resistance and a finish that blends into contemporary trim packages.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Renters or DIYers without the tools or appetite for routing a mortise.
- Applications requiring a lock or privacy latch.
- Hollow-core doors without blocking.

Recommendation

I recommend the HBL pocket door set for solid-wood pocket doors where you want a minimalist, durable, and comfortable pull without a locking function. The stainless steel cups feel great in hand, the matte black finish is clean and resilient, and the included template turns a potentially fussy install into a predictable one. You’ll still need either a router or careful chisel work, so it’s not a zero-skill project, but the result looks custom and works smoothly. If you need privacy hardware or you’re dealing with hollow-core doors, choose a different kit. For everything else, this is an easy upgrade that meaningfully improves both the look and usability of a pocket door.