K & S Precision Metals K&S Precision Metals Bendable Brass Strip Assortment 5078 - 4 Strips, 0.032" Thick, 1/4" & 1/2" Wide x 12" Long - DIY Crafts, Modeling, Made in USA

Why these brass strips earned a spot on my bench

Few materials in a small shop are as forgiving—and as useful—as thin brass. The K&S brass strip assortment has become one of those “keep a pack on hand” staples for me because it bridges a gap between decorative trim, functional shims, and light-duty hardware. Out of the sleeve you get four strips of 0.032-inch (about 0.8 mm) brass: two at 1/4 inch wide and two at 1/2 inch wide, all 12 inches long. That mix sounds simple, but it covers a surprising number of jobs without forcing you to buy a bulk sheet or a single width you’ll fight to repurpose.

Fit, finish, and material quality

K&S hobby metals have a good reputation, and this assortment matches my expectations. The strips arrived straight, flat, and true to size with consistent thickness and temper across pieces. Edges are sheared cleanly for a hobby-grade product—there’s a light burr that I always plan to dress with a file anyway. Surfaces were clean enough to finish immediately; a quick wipe with acetone removed any light shop film before gluing, painting, or soldering.

The alloy and temper strike a practical balance: stiff enough to hold shape as a bracket or spacer, yet bendable by hand or with basic tools. For reference, I’d describe the stiffness as “credit-card plus”—more rigid than brass shim stock, less rigid than 1/16-inch plate. That makes it ideal for small architectural trims, model fittings, shims, and low-load fixtures.

Workability: bending, cutting, and drilling

At 0.032 inch thick, the strips bend predictably. For simple curves and gentle profiles, hand pressure over a dowel or pipe works. For crisp bends, I got best results with a bench vise and two hardwood blocks:

• Clamp the strip between blocks aligned at the bend line.
• Use a mallet to ease the bend to just past 90 degrees to account for springback.
• Maintain at least a thickness-sized inside radius to reduce cracking risk.

If you need a knife-edge 90 with minimal radius, it’s doable, but you’ll want a small metal brake or at least a vise with smooth jaws and patience. Brass at this thickness is ductile, but if you try to force a sharp bend without tooling, you’ll get kinks. For extremely tight bends or repeated re-forming, a brief anneal with a torch (heat to dull red and air cool) softens the brass and improves your odds, though I didn’t need annealing for any of my projects.

Cutting is straightforward:

• Score-and-snap: For straight cuts, repeated scoring with a sharp utility knife along a steel ruler, then a controlled up/down flex, produces a surprisingly crisp break with minimal burr.
• Shears/snips: Aviation snips or heavy shears cut easily, but will curl the offcut and may leave more cleanup.
• Saw/Dremel: A jeweler’s saw or a rotary tool with a thin cut-off wheel makes precise shapes and notches.

Drilling clean holes is simple with a center punch, sharp HSS bit, and light oil. Back the work with wood, run at moderate speed, and you’ll get round holes without grabbing. Deburr with a countersink or larger drill bit.

Joining and finishing

Adhesives, solder, and mechanical fasteners all play well here. For trim and caps, medium CA or two-part epoxy makes a durable bond to wood and plastics. If you’re building brackets or fittings, soft solder with a flux designed for brass flows nicely and creates strong joints; I’ve also silver-soldered small assemblies when I wanted extra strength and heat resistance.

Finishing options are wide open:

• Polish and clear-coat for a bright, durable look.
• Scotch-Brite for a satin, brushed finish.
• Chemical patinas or ammonia fumes for aged effects.
• Primer and paint if you want color—just scuff lightly and degrease.

Because it’s brass, the strips are conductive. I’ve used them as low-current bus bars and grounding straps in prototypes. They’re not a substitute for proper copper conductors for higher loads, but for small circuits and shielding, they’re handy.

How I used them

A few real projects where these strips shined:

• Furniture foot trim: I wrapped the base of a table leg extension with the 1/2-inch strip to turn a necessary patch into a design detail. Scored the inside corners, bent in a vise, and glued with epoxy. Clamping overnight sized the brass perfectly to the wood and kept the bend sharp.
• Spacers/shims: The 1/4-inch strips became precision shims to level a small machine base. I cut to length with score-and-snap, stacked as needed, and secured them with a dab of CA after final alignment.
• Model hardware: For a scale sailboat, I cut and soldered tiny strap hinges and fairleads. The brass took small-radius bends cleanly, and a light polish made the fittings look “right” in scale.
• Light mounting bracket: A narrow L-bracket formed from the 1/2-inch strip held a small camera module inside a tailgate housing. A couple of drilled holes and a careful 90-degree bend gave me a rigid, adjustable mount without 3D-printing a custom part.

In each case, the material behaved predictably and finished cleanly without specialized machines.

What it does—and doesn’t—cover

The assortment concept is the draw, but there are inherent limits. Length is fixed at 12 inches, which is enough for trim, brackets, and model work, but short for long runs of edging. The widths—1/4 and 1/2 inch—cover a lot of small tasks, yet if you need wide plate or ultra-narrow straps, you’ll be better served by full sheets or brass strip in other sizes.

There’s no adhesive backing. That’s a plus for soldering and finishing, but if you’re doing pure decorative edging and want peel-and-stick simplicity, you’ll need to add your own tape or choose an adhesive-backed product. Also, while the strips will take a clean 90 with proper technique, expect some springback. If you’re chasing perfectly crisp architectural corners with no radius, a small brake or purpose-made corner stock will save time.

Finally, strength has limits. The strips are strong for their size, but they’re still 0.032-inch brass. They’ll hold a small module or act as a brace, but they’re not structural members. For load-bearing brackets, step up in thickness or switch to steel.

Tips for best results

• Plan your bends: Mark bend lines and account for springback; aim slightly acute and bring the bend back if needed.
• Score strategically: For box-like wraps, a shallow score on the inside of the bend helps achieve a tighter corner without cracking.
• Protect the finish: Use painter’s tape on your vise jaws or pliers to avoid marring. Handle with gloves if you want a pristine polish.
• Deburr religiously: A few quick passes with a file or fine sandpaper elevates the finished look and avoids sharp edges.
• Seal against tarnish: If you like the polished look, a clear lacquer or wax keeps fingerprints from turning into patina.

Value and who it’s for

As a small, American-made assortment, it’s priced fairly for what you get: four consistent, hobby-grade brass strips you can put to work immediately. The mix of widths means fewer compromises on small projects, and the thickness lands in a versatile sweet spot. If you routinely build models, prototype hardware, do light fixture repairs, craft, or add metal accents to woodwork, this pack is a smart staple. If your work leans to large-format metalworking, heavy brackets, or long continuous trim, step up to wider/longer stock.

Recommendation

I recommend the K&S brass strips. They’re consistent, easy to work with using basic tools, and versatile across trim, shims, light brackets, and model hardware. The 0.032-inch thickness provides a useful balance of stiffness and formability, and the two included widths cover most small-shop needs without waste. You’ll want your own adhesive if you’re doing peel-and-stick applications, and a small brake helps if you need perfectly crisp corners, but those are reasonable trade-offs for an assortment that punches above its weight in everyday utility.