CKE 10ft-15ft Complete Set 36" Cable Railing Post Kit, 3Pack Black Level Drilled Line Posts(35"x2"x2"), Swageless Deck Cable Railing System Kit, 220ft 1/8" Wire Rope(No Handrail), Black Post Kit LPS02

I built a 12-foot section of deck railing with the CKE cable railing kit to see how far a truly “swageless” system can take a DIYer. In short: it’s a smart, budget-conscious way to get a clean, modern railing without renting a crimper or buying specialty tools—but it does reward careful planning, precise measuring, and a bit of patience during tensioning.

What’s included and what’s not

The kit arrives as a modular straight-run package: three level-drilled 36-inch black posts, 220 feet of 1/8-inch T316 stainless cable, 20 swageless fittings, a pile of rubber grommets, and a cable cutter. There’s no handrail in the box. You can run without one, but I strongly recommend adding a wood or metal top rail for comfort, heat management, and stiffness. CKE sells compatible flat handrails, or you can mill your own.

A quick note on scope: the posts in this kit are line posts. You still need adequately anchored structural end posts (and corner posts, if applicable) to take the cable tension. If you’re building a longer run or turning corners, plan to add the appropriate CKE stair/corner posts or use your own suitably stiff end structure. CKE suggests keeping the span between structural posts around 4 feet and not exceeding 6 feet; I agree, and I think 4 feet is the sweet spot if you want cables that stay taut and pass the 4-inch sphere test with confidence.

Design and build quality

The posts are T304 stainless with a matte black powder coat; the cable and fittings are T316 stainless. That split makes sense: T316 where it matters most (the small parts that trap moisture) and a coated T304 post for cost control. The finish reads matte and uniform—more modern than glossy black—and the square bases give a generous footprint. Base covers slide down to hide fasteners and leave a neat look.

The pre-drilled holes are spaced at 3-1/8 inches and line up consistently across all posts. The rubber grommets are sized well and protect the powder coat from cable abrasion. I appreciate that the top bracket arrives installed; it’s ready to catch a flat handrail without extra fiddling.

Two caveats from my build:
- A couple of posts needed shimming at the base to stand perfectly plumb. That’s not unusual on decks with minor slope or decking irregularities, but it’s worth checking before you start pulling cable.
- The included cable cutter is perfectly adequate for 1/8-inch T316 and produced clean ends, but wrapping the cut line with tape reduced stray strands even further.

Installation experience

The promise here is “no crimper required,” and that’s true. These are swageless, mechanical-grip fittings, so the cable seats into a collet-style interior rather than relying on a hydraulic crimp. If you’ve ever used compression fittings on plumbing, the concept will feel familiar.

My installation flow:
1. Layout and anchor: I mocked up the run, marked the post centers, and through-bolted the bases into blocking. Take your time here—post plumbness matters.
2. Dry run at mid-span: I always set and tension the middle cable first on a fully plumbed setup. That exposes any alignment quirks before you cut a dozen lines.
3. Cut long, then trim: I measured cable runs generously, installed the first swageless terminal, test-fit the second end, and then trimmed to final length. Repeatability matters, but so does not painting yourself into a corner.
4. Sequence your tensioning: Work from the middle out, alternating top and bottom cables so you don’t bias the post. Small, even turns beat cranking one line to max and then chasing the rest.

The fittings have a definite “click” moment when the cable is fully seated, and I recommend marking your insertion depth with a Sharpie before pushing in, especially if you’re new to swageless hardware. If the cable isn’t fully seated, it may slip when you start tensioning.

Plan for half a day to install this kit at an easy pace, more if you’re adding a custom handrail or drilling new blocking.

Performance and feel

Once fully tensioned, the run felt secure and clean. At 4-foot spans between structural posts, deflection under a firm push stayed within expectations, and the grommeted holes kept the cable whisper-quiet when wind gusts hit (no buzz or pinging). The minimalist look is spot-on; visually, the cables disappear at a few feet, and the matte black posts recede into the background.

I did experience one stubborn cable that resisted final tightening. The culprit was a tiny burr at the cut end and an incomplete insert into the fitting’s collet. Recutting and reseating fixed it. The lesson: keep cuts clean, seat to your depth mark, and don’t force tension to overcome a bad seat—solve the seat first.

Also, without a handrail, the top post surface gets hot in direct sun. A wood or composite cap rail solves heat, adds a comfortable grip, and stiffens the overall system.

Code and layout considerations

The 36-inch post height and 3-1/8-inch hole spacing are appropriate for most residential decks, but code is local. Some jurisdictions require 42-inch guards; others are particular about cable deflection spacing or stair geometry. If you’re near the ocean or a pool, maintenance expectations also tighten. Check before you build.

Spacing matters. You can get away with 6-foot structural spans if you must, but you’ll fight more sag and need very careful tensioning to stay inside the 4-inch sphere. I prefer using more posts than the minimum; cables behave better, and everything stays tighter with less effort.

Durability and maintenance

Mixed-material design here is thoughtful: T316 for the wire and fittings where corrosion risk is highest, powder-coated T304 for the posts. Inland or standard residential environments won’t trouble this setup. In coastal or high-chloride areas, I’d rinse periodically, keep debris out of the fitting recesses, and plan on annual inspection/touch-up of the post finish. If you’re directly exposed to salt spray, fully T316 posts would be ideal, but that’s a different price bracket.

Mechanically, swageless joints provide robust grip if assembled cleanly. I like to check tension a week after install and then again after a season—cable will relax slightly as everything settles.

What I’d change

• Include a simple insertion-depth gauge or pre-marked ferrule for the swageless fittings. It would help beginners get consistent seats.
• Offer an option with two structural end posts instead of three line posts for small straight runs. Many projects would be easier to start and finish with dedicated, beefier terminal posts out of the box.
• Add a light-duty alignment shim kit. It’s inexpensive and would help users on slightly uneven decks stand posts dead plumb.

Who it’s for

• DIYers who want a clean cable look without renting a crimper.
• Pros building cost-sensitive decks who still want T316 cable and decent fit/finish.
• Anyone planning straight or gently segmented runs. For complex stair transitions, CKE’s stair/corner posts are available, but expect more layout work.

If your primary goal is absolute plug-and-play with zero measuring finesse, a fully pre-cut, pre-crimped kit from a premium brand will be simpler—but at a much higher price.

Value

For the hardware and cable included, the kit lands in a very attractive price zone. Buying à la carte equivalents (T316 cable, swageless fittings, and stainless posts) typically costs significantly more. The trade-off is that you supply the precision: careful measuring, clean cuts, correct seating, and thoughtful tensioning. If you’re comfortable with that, you’ll pocket real savings without sacrificing the finished look.

Recommendation

I recommend the CKE cable railing kit for straight residential runs where you’re willing to invest a bit of care in layout and tensioning. It delivers a sleek, modern result with corrosion-resistant cable and fuss-free swageless fittings at a very reasonable price. Add a top rail for comfort and heat control, keep structural spans around 4 feet, and take your time seating each fitting. Do that, and you’ll get professional-looking results without specialized tools. If your project is coastal, requires 42-inch guards, or you want absolute turnkey simplicity, consider stepping up to heavier end posts, a matching handrail, or a higher-end pre-crimped system. Otherwise, this kit is a smart, capable choice.