DeWalt Standard Point Cut-Out Bit

Why I reached for this bit

On a recent kitchen remodel, I swapped my pad saw for a rotary cut-out tool paired with the DeWalt cut-out bit. Between cutting in a handful of outlet boxes, tracing a new vent opening, and dropping a couple of recessed lights into 5/8-inch Type X drywall, it became a good test of how this 1/8-inch bit handles real jobsite demands.

What it is and how it’s built

This is a 1/8-inch diameter, 1/8-inch shank high-speed steel bit with a standard point. Overall length measures about 2.36 inches with roughly 1.38 inches of flute length, which matters if you work on layered drywall or need a bit that isn’t so long it whips. The pack includes ten bits—useful on a job where drywall dust and inevitable hardware strikes can end a bit’s day early. Mine were stamped as made in Brazil.

High-speed steel (HSS) is a sensible choice for gypsum. It’s tough enough to resist snapping, more forgiving than carbide if you get a little sideload on a plunge, and easy to control. You give up some ultimate wear life compared with carbide, especially if you nick a fastener or hit abrasive skimmed surfaces, but HSS remains the everyday workhorse material for drywall.

The standard point matters. Unlike guidepoint profiles designed to ride a surface, this tip is meant to pierce and then cut. With a little technique, it’s accurate and fast; without that technique, you can walk off a line or chew up a box edge. More on that below.

Setup and compatibility

I used the bit in a DeWalt cut-out tool and later in a compact rotary tool with a 1/8-inch collet. The 1/8-inch shank fits the usual suspects—DW660, RotoZip, and most rotary tools with the right collet. I ran between 25,000 and 30,000 RPM; slower speeds tended to leave a rougher edge and encouraged the bit to push instead of slice.

Depth control is worth calling out. With a standard point, set the depth just past material thickness—an extra 1/8-inch beyond the drywall is plenty. That keeps the tip from diving into recesses, boxes, or wiring. On 5/8-inch board, I set about 3/4-inch total depth. If you don’t have a depth guide, mark the shank with tape.

Cutting performance in drywall

• Plunge and straight cuts: The standard point plunges cleanly with a minor dimple on the entry. Once in, the bit tracks a pencil line well and leaves a surprisingly neat edge on both 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch drywall. I saw minimal paper fuzzing; a quick pass of a sanding sponge was enough before taping.

• Outlets and switch boxes: The bit shines here. I score a starter, plunge inside the box area, find the box edge, and then move counterclockwise around the outside so the bit’s rotation pulls into the box and not away from it. With the depth set correctly, I could ride the box metal without gouging it. Control is very good—better than I get from longer, skinnier bits that tend to flex.

• Recessed lights and vents: For circular cuts, I drilled a pilot and then eased into the line, moving clockwise to keep the bit tracking the inside of the cut. The bit made smooth arcs without chatter. On ceilings, the shorter overall length helped; there’s less whipping above your head, and the bit stayed steady as I shifted my stance on a platform.

The flute design clears gypsum dust adequately, but it’s still drywall: dust will pack if you force the feed or starve it of RPM. Let the tool work. When I kept a light hand, the bit ran cooler and the cut quality stayed crisp.

Accuracy and control

Two aspects stood out:

• The stoutness of a 1/8-inch HSS core at this length strikes a good balance. There’s enough stiffness to reduce wander, but not so much mass that you feel kick on plunge. That makes it easy to trace tight box corners without overshooting.

• The standard point rewards technique. If you lean too hard or run too shallow a depth, you can momentarily lose the edge you’re riding and dig into a box or stud. With correct depth and a counterclockwise approach around fixtures, I had predictable contact and a tidy reveal around devices.

If your work involves elaborate cutouts near fragile finishes or premium boxes, a guidepoint bit might be safer. For general drywall with common boxes, the control here is absolutely sufficient.

Durability and bit life

On 1/2-inch drywall, I completed a dozen outlet cutouts and two larger openings on one bit before I noticed a measurable drop in bite. On 5/8-inch Type X, expect a bit fewer. Hitting a screw immediately dulls the edge—no surprise, and not unique to this bit. The flute holds up well to heat; I didn’t see blueing unless I intentionally forced the feed.

Here’s what helped extend life:

• Keep RPMs high and pressure light.
• Avoid riding screws. Probe for fasteners at the edges before you commit.
• Every few cuts, tap the tool to clear gypsum from the flutes so you’re not grinding dust.

If you live in commercial work with heavy Type X, corner bead, and a maze of boxes, carbide will outlast HSS—especially if you can’t avoid incidental metal contact. For residential remodels and punch lists, the lifespan here is perfectly acceptable. The ten-pack also means you swap without drama when a bit loses its edge mid-run.

Dust, noise, and user experience

Cut-out work is dusty regardless of bit choice. This bit produces fine gypsum dust and the usual paper confetti. A vac attachment under the cut path paired with a P100 mask kept the air manageable. Noise is typical rotary-tool shriek; hearing protection is a must. Vibration through the tool was low, and I didn’t experience the harmonic chatter some longer bits produce when you change direction abruptly.

One nice side effect of the shorter flute length: fewer accidental deep plunges and less tool bounce against the substrate behind the drywall. That’s peace of mind near electrical.

Where it fits and where it doesn’t

• Best use: Fast, clean cutouts in drywall and gypsum board. Boxes, vents, speaker holes, and recessed lighting are its bread and butter.

• Acceptable: Light passes in plaster skim over board, provided you let the tool nibble and don’t force it. Expect faster wear.

• Not for: Cement board, lath-and-plaster, wood, or anything with embedded mesh. The bit will dull rapidly or break. Also not ideal if your workflow regularly runs into fasteners—carbide is a better pick there.

Value and pack size

The ten-pack format makes sense. Drywall work tends to be bursty, and having fresh bits on hand prevents interruptions. HSS keeps costs reasonable, and the 1/8-inch shank ensures you can use them in most cut-out tools without hunting for a different collet. Considering the control and the cut quality, the price-to-performance equation is strong for small contractors and serious DIYers.

Tips for best results

• Set depth just beyond board thickness to avoid damaging boxes or wiring.
• For outlet and switch boxes: plunge, touch the box edge, then move counterclockwise around the exterior.
• For interior cutouts (like circles): move clockwise to keep the bit pressing into your line.
• Keep speed high and pressure light; clear dust from the flutes regularly.
• Mark studs and scan for screws at the edges to avoid ruining an edge on metal.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt cut-out bit for anyone doing regular drywall work who values controlled cuts and predictable handling. It plunges cleanly, tracks fixtures well, and its length and stiffness make it easy to steer—especially overhead. The HSS construction won’t match carbide for sheer longevity around metal, but in gypsum it holds an edge respectably and resists snapping when you’re working at awkward angles. The 10-pack format means you can keep moving even if you dull one on a hidden screw. If your projects lean heavily on cement board or you constantly encounter fasteners, consider carbide; otherwise, this bit is a reliable, no-nonsense choice that keeps you out of the pad saw and on pace.