Eastman 12 Inch Flexible Toilet Connector, 7/8 Inch Ballcock x 3/8 Inch Compression, Stainless Steel Braided Hose, 48088

Why I picked this connector

I replaced an aging fill valve recently and decided to swap the supply line at the same time. Flexible braided connectors are inexpensive insurance against leaks, but quality varies a lot. The Eastman 12-inch toilet connector stood out because of its all-metal end fittings and a spec sheet that reads like a supply line meant for the long haul, not just to hit a price point. After installing it on two toilets—one with very tight clearance—I came away impressed with its design, ease of use, and the confidence it inspires.

Build quality and materials

This connector is the classic 7/8-inch ballcock by 3/8-inch compression configuration most modern toilets use. The construction is what I look for:

• PVC inner core for smooth flow
• Multi-filament nylon reinforcement to prevent ballooning under pressure
• Clear vinyl outer shell as a secondary barrier
• 304 stainless steel braided exterior for abrasion and kink resistance
• Nickel-plated solid brass hex nuts on both ends
• Full-flow brass barbs (the internal fittings that maintain bore diameter through the hose)

That mix matters. Cheaper lines often cut costs at the fittings, substituting plastic nuts at the tank connection. I’ve seen those crack. Here, the metal nuts thread smoothly and seat squarely. The 304 stainless braid is also a good sign; it’s the grade commonly used in plumbing for corrosion resistance.

The hose has a firm but flexible feel. It holds its shape through a gentle bend and resists flattening if it’s nudged against a wall or shutoff handle. I tugged, twisted, and rotated it during dry fit to see if it tried to kink; it didn’t.

Specs that matter in the real world

• Working pressure: 125 PSI, burst pressure: 2500 PSI
• Working temperature: 40–150°F (180°F maximum)
• Length: 12 inches
• Certifications: UPC, CSA, NSF, AB1953 lead-free
• Intended use: toilet/non-potable applications

Most homes sit between 40–80 PSI and ambient temperatures, so the pressure/temperature envelope is comfortably overbuilt for toilet service. The burst rating, while academic for most homeowners, is reassuring. The certifications indicate it’s built to recognizable plumbing standards. Eastman positions this for toilet use (non-potable), which is appropriate since the water downstream of a toilet valve isn’t intended for drinking.

Installation experience

This was one of the cleaner installs I’ve done for a supply line. Steps and notes from my experience:

1. Shut off the angle stop and flush to empty the tank.
2. Loosen the old supply line at the shutoff valve (3/8-inch compression) and at the tank (7/8-inch ballcock).
3. Hand-thread the Eastman connector onto the tank shank first. The nickel-plated brass nut threads smoothly without cross-binding.
4. Attach the 3/8-inch compression end to the shutoff valve. Because this is a compression seat, no thread seal tape is required on either end.
5. Snug both connections with an adjustable wrench—hand-tight plus about a quarter turn. Don’t muscle it; overtightening can distort gaskets and cause leaks.
6. Open the valve and check. Mine sealed immediately with no weeping, even under a paper towel test.

The full-flow barbs and properly sized ferrules mean the fittings pull up without drama. In the tighter installation, the 12-inch length just made the gentle loop I wanted without forcing a sharp bend, which is exactly how I like to see these installed. If your shutoff is further from the tank, consider a longer line; a forced S-curve or tight radius is where problems start.

Fit and compatibility

• Toilet side: 7/8-inch ballcock is the de facto standard for modern fill valves. It fit my Fluidmaster-style valve body and a Kohler fill valve without issue.
• Supply side: 3/8-inch compression is standard on many angle stops. If your shutoff is older or uses a different size (e.g., 1/2-inch IPS or 7/16-inch OD), you’ll need an adapter or a different connector. This hose does not include adapters, and I prefer it that way—fewer variables.

I appreciate the hex nuts on both ends. They take a wrench cleanly and are less fiddly than knurled plastic hand-nuts, especially in cramped spaces.

Performance and day-to-day confidence

There isn’t much to “performance” with a toilet connector beyond not leaking and not restricting flow. This one checks both boxes. The full-bore design doesn’t choke refill, and the hose doesn’t telegraph valve chatter or transmit vibration when the fill valve closes. If you have water hammer, this connector won’t cure it—use a hammer arrestor—but it also doesn’t exacerbate it.

What matters most to me is how it manages risk over time. The stainless braid resists abrasion from contact points behind the tank. The internal reinforcement resists fatigue from minor movement. The metal nut at the tank side is, in my experience, a significant upgrade over plastic hardware. Paired with the generous pressure rating and recognizable certifications, the overall package inspires more trust than bargain-bin lines.

I also look for early warning signs: fraying braid, rust spots, or crust around the ferrules. After install and a couple of months of use, the hose looks exactly as it did out of the package. In coastal or high-chloride environments, check periodically for pitting on 304 stainless; that’s best practice for any braided line, not a knock on this unit specifically.

What I’d change

No connector is perfect, and there are a few considerations:

• Length options: 12 inches is common, but many bathrooms benefit from 16–20 inches to make a generous loop. This model is fixed at 12 inches, so plan accordingly.
• No adapters included: I don’t need them, but DIYers in older homes with non-standard shutoffs might. If you’re unsure of your valve size, check before you order.
• Not decorative: The stainless braid looks clean but not “finished.” If your supply is fully exposed and you care about aesthetics, a rigid chrome riser can look nicer (and requires more careful alignment).
• Tool required: The hex nuts encourage using a wrench, which I prefer. If you want a purely hand-tightened fit, look for a model with a large plastic thumbwheel—accepting the trade-offs that come with it.

These are minor, but they’re worth knowing before you crawl behind a toilet.

Tips from the install

• Don’t use thread tape on compression or ballcock connections; sealing happens at the gasket/seat.
• Support the fill valve shank while tightening to avoid twisting the valve inside the tank.
• Aim for a gentle loop with no sharp bends.
• Replace braided supply lines proactively every 5–10 years, sooner if you see corrosion or damage.
• After installation, dry everything off and check again in an hour for any weeping.

Value

Given the materials, build, and ratings, the price feels fair. You can find cheaper lines, but they often cut corners at the fittings or reinforcement. The Eastman connector feels like a modest step up that returns real benefits in reliability. I’d rather spend a few dollars more here than deal with a leak under a toilet later.

Bottom line

The Eastman 12-inch toilet connector is a well-built, straightforward piece of kit that installs cleanly and does its job without fuss. The stainless braid, brass hardware, full-flow internals, and proper certifications create a trustworthy package. It’s sized for standard 7/8-inch tank and 3/8-inch shutoff connections and fits comfortably in tight spaces when a 12-inch loop will do.

Recommendation: I recommend this connector for anyone replacing a toilet fill valve or upgrading an older supply line. It’s easy to install, uses durable materials where it counts, and comes with the kind of pressure and temperature headroom that suggests it will hold up over time. Just verify your shutoff size and length requirements before you buy, and you’ll be set with a reliable, no-nonsense solution.