PLUMBINGMASTER (6pcs 12 inch) PLUMBINGMASTER Toilet Water Supply Line,3/8" Comp x 7/8" BC Braided Stainless Steel Toilet Supply Line,Toilet Connector Hose with Anti-Leaking Brass Nut

I keep a bin of plumbing consumables in the shop, and toilet connectors are the first to run low. On a recent round of toilet installs and maintenance, I put a six-pack of PLUMBINGMASTER’s 12-inch braided toilet supply lines to work. After a week of mixed tasks—new toilets, valve swaps, and a couple of bidet seat add-ons—I’ve got a solid sense of how these connectors perform in real-world use.

What you get

This is a six-pack of 12-inch braided stainless steel toilet connectors with a 3/8-inch female compression on one end (for the shutoff/angle stop) and a 7/8-inch ballcock nut on the other (for the toilet’s fill valve). That sizing is the standard configuration for most North American toilets. The fittings are metal, the braiding is tight and uniform, and each hose has a clean, consistent crimp at both ferrules. They’re listed as NSF and cUPC compliant and marked as low-lead, which matters if you’re working in jurisdictions that actually check.

Build quality and design

The braiding feels stout without being rigid. It loops cleanly without kinking, and the inner tube keeps its shape when bent around typical clearances. The ferrules and nuts are well machined; threads engage smoothly and there’s no gritty feel that you sometimes get with cheaper connectors. I also appreciate the deep flats on the nuts—they take a wrench well without slipping, and there’s enough shoulder to hold securely while tightening.

The 7/8-inch toilet-side connection uses the expected captive cone-style washer, so there’s nothing to chase or lose. The compression end has a standard sleeve and nut arrangement that seated reliably on every angle stop I tested.

Installation experience

These were as straightforward as toilet connectors get. My process:

• Shut off the angle stop, flush to empty the tank, and keep a towel handy.
• Remove the old connector, inspect the valve and fill valve shank for cracks or debris.
• Thread the PLUMBINGMASTER connector onto the 3/8-inch compression outlet first, then onto the 7/8-inch fill valve shank.
• Snug both ends: hand-tight plus a cautious quarter-turn with a wrench on each side. Do not overtighten the plastic fill valve shank.
• Turn the water on slowly and check for weeping. Wipe each joint with a dry paper towel to confirm.

No Teflon tape is needed on a compression connection, and I didn’t use any. All six lines sealed immediately without fuss. The 12-inch length is a sweet spot for most standard height toilets where the shutoff is roughly level with the tank base and within a foot of the inlet. If your valve is lower or offset more than usual, plan for a longer connector.

Fit and compatibility

• Toilets: The 7/8-inch ballcock nut fits standard fill valve shanks found on most brands. If your toilet has an atypical inlet (rare), double-check before buying.
• Angle stops: The 3/8-inch female compression end expects a matching 3/8-inch compression outlet. If you have a 1/2-inch NPT threaded outlet, you’ll need a different connector or a different stop.
• Bidet seats and attachments: If you’re adding a seat that requires a 7/8-inch tee at the tank, this line can still run from the tee to the fill valve without issue.

For property work or batch replacements, having six identical connectors simplifies things. I was able to standardize across several bathrooms, and the install rhythm became fast and predictable.

Performance and reliability

After install, I pressure-tested each line and checked again a day later—no leaks, no re-tightening needed. The braided sheath resists abrasion and offers a big upgrade over the old polyvinyl tubing you still see in the wild. Is stainless braiding overkill in a low-pressure toilet feed? Not in my experience. It’s less prone to swelling, far less likely to burst with aging, and holds up better to household pressure fluctuations.

I also like that the fittings don’t gall or chew up easily. The threads stayed crisp even after repositioning a couple of times during alignment. These are the kind of connectors you install and stop thinking about—exactly what you want in a bathroom.

Code, safety, and materials

The NSF/cUPC listings and low-lead construction give peace of mind for code compliance and potable water safety. While a toilet isn’t your drinking tap, many inspectors treat supply components under the same umbrella. If you’re working on permitted jobs or rentals, having traceable compliance on the connector is a plus.

Where the 12-inch length works—and where it doesn’t

Twelve inches covers the majority of standard rough-ins. It’s long enough for a gentle loop that avoids stress on the fittings, but short enough to tuck cleanly behind the tank without crowding. That said, if your shutoff is far to the side, low to the floor, or sits behind a vanity face frame, measure carefully. I recommend measuring center-to-center from the valve outlet to the fill valve threads and adding a couple of inches so the hose can arc, not stretch.

If you’re truly on the margin, go up a size rather than forcing a tight run. A connector that’s pulled taut is more likely to transmit vibration and can be finicky to seal.

Tips from the field

• Support both sides while tightening. Use one wrench on the nut and a second to hold the valve body to avoid torquing the plumbing in the wall.
• Don’t overtighten the 7/8-inch nut at the fill valve. Hand snug plus a small wrench turn is enough. If it weeps, tighten in tiny increments.
• Check the angle stop. If it doesn’t shut off fully or the stem leaks, fix that first. No connector will save a failing valve.
• Consider water hammer. If you hear banging pipes when the fill valve shuts, install a water hammer arrestor at the valve; it’s separate from the connector but prolongs the life of the whole assembly.

Durability outlook

I can’t claim multi-year data after a week, but build quality is encouraging. The crimps are even, the braid is tight, and the fittings show no flashing or finish flaking. In my experience, connectors built like this deliver years of service—especially when not bent beyond their minimum radius.

If you’re replacing old gray poly or vinyl lines, this is a worthwhile upgrade in both safety and appearance.

Value

Buying these as a six-pack is cost-effective if you’re doing multiple installs or refreshing a few bathrooms at once. Even for a single job, having a spare or two on hand rarely goes to waste. Price-to-quality lands in the “easy choice” category for me—especially compared to grabbing individual lines at a big-box store on the way to a job.

The trade-offs

• Fixed length: Only offered here as 12 inches. That’s common, but not universal. Measure before you commit to a six-pack.
• Single configuration: 3/8-inch compression x 7/8-inch ballcock is the right combo for toilets, but not for everything. Don’t expect it to cross over to sinks without checking your valve outlet type.

Neither of these is a flaw; just know your layout and outlet spec.

Who it’s for

• Pros and handypeople who want a reliable, consistent connector for batch work.
• Homeowners replacing aging lines during a toilet swap or valve upgrade.
• Landlords refreshing units between tenants and standardizing parts across properties.

Bottom line

The PLUMBINGMASTER 12-inch braided toilet supply lines hit the essentials: solid fittings, clean threading, flexible stainless braiding, and a standard 3/8-inch comp to 7/8-inch ballcock configuration that installs quickly and seals reliably. Add the NSF/cUPC listings and low-lead construction, and you’ve got a connector that checks the boxes for both DIYers and pros.

Recommendation: I recommend these supply lines. They install easily, seal without drama, and the six-pack offers strong value for multi-bath projects or spare stock. Measure your run to confirm 12 inches is right for your layout; if it is, this set is an efficient, dependable choice.