Skil 15A 7-1/4 In. Corded Circular Saw with Laser

Why I picked up this Skil circular saw

I keep a cordless circular saw on the truck, but for long rips, repetitive framing cuts, or a day on the miter stand where a cord is already out, I still reach for a corded saw. I spent time with Skil’s 7-1/4‑inch corded model to see if a budget-friendly, full‑size saw could earn a spot in my workflow. Short answer: it’s more capable than its price suggests, with a few quirks to know before you buy.

Build and setup

Out of the box, the saw ships with a 24‑tooth carbide blade, a wrench (stored on the tool), and a soft bag. That’s a helpful starter kit—no hunting for a blade or tossing a bare tool in the back seat. The shoe is wide and flat enough to inspire confidence on sheet goods, and the lower guard has an anti‑snag profile that genuinely helps when trimming narrow offcuts.

At 8.7 lb, it’s lighter than many pro‑focused magnesium‑shoe saws, and the balance feels right with the motor offset keeping the cutline visible. The main handle has a comfortable contour and rubber overmold that doesn’t get slick when dusty. The depth and bevel scales are easy to read, and the rear lever for depth changes lets you set cut depth quickly without losing your grip on the saw.

A couple of setup notes:
- The saw does not include a rip fence. The shoe has a slot, but not every generic fence fits; I defaulted to a straightedge guide for long rips.
- Check the base-to-blade squareness before your first project. Mine was close but benefited from a quick tweak so the blade tracked perfectly square at 90°.

Power and cutting performance

This saw has a 15‑amp motor rated up to 5,300 RPM. In practical terms, it has plenty of power for typical framing lumber and sheet goods. I pushed it through:
- 3/4‑inch plywood, both crosscuts and rips
- 2x SPF studs and PT 2x6s
- 6x6 landscape timbers (multiple passes)

In 2x material, the stock 24T blade and motor combo chew right along. Buried in pressure‑treated wood, you can feel the resistance increase, but the saw stays on line if you keep the shoe flat and let the blade do the work. On wet PT or knotted stock, be mindful of binding—set the cut depth so just a few teeth clear the bottom and use supports to prevent the kerf from closing behind the blade.

Max cut depth is 2‑7/16 inches at 90° and 1‑15/16 inches at 45°. That’s enough to handle standard framing at either angle in a single pass. For 6x timbers, I scored and flipped for clean, four‑sided cuts; the saw had the reach and control to keep those passes accurate.

One thing to note: the blade coasts to a stop after the trigger release. There’s no electric brake, so give the guard and blade a second before setting the saw down.

Accuracy, shoe, and laser

The stamped shoe on this saw is stiffer than I expected at this price bracket and stayed flat in my bench checks. The saw tracks true with a straightedge; with the bare shoe, it rides smoothly over plywood without chatter. The single‑beam laser is a “nice to have,” not a precision instrument. It’s most helpful for rough layout and keeping to a pencil line on long rips. I had to nudge it into alignment the first day; once dialed, it stayed consistent unless I bumped the saw hard during transport. Bright outdoor light washes it out somewhat, but the integrated dust blower helps keep the line visible during most cuts.

If you need dead‑accurate glue‑line rips, use a track or a clamped straightedge and a higher‑tooth blade. For framing and general crosscuts, the laser makes quick line alignment easier.

Bevels and depth adjustments

Bevel capacity runs to 51° with a positive stop at 45°. The stop hits cleanly, and the bevel lock holds without slipping under load. I like the placement of the levers—depth at the rear and bevel up front—so you can keep your off‑hand on the auxiliary point while tweaking settings. The detent at 45° is a genuine time saver when you’re alternating between square and mitered cuts on a framing job.

I checked bevel accuracy with a digital gauge. Out of the box, 90° was a hair off and needed a minor adjustment; 45° was spot‑on. Once set, both stayed true over several hours of cutting.

Ergonomics and safety

The trigger has a lock‑off that sits close to the body. It’s small and took me a bit to get comfortable with the motion while wearing gloves. The upside is that accidental activation is unlikely, and there’s a power‑on indicator light that reminds you the tool is live as soon as it’s plugged in. Vibration is modest, and the motor note is on the quieter side for a corded unit in this class, though it’s still hearing protection territory.

The guard action is smooth—no snagging as you ease into cuts—and the blade visibility is excellent from a right‑hander’s stance. Left‑handers may find the motor housing blocks more of the cutline, which is typical with this layout.

Dust and line of sight

The dust blower is more than a marketing bullet. It actively clears the kerf area so your pencil line doesn’t disappear under fines, especially helpful in MDF and OSB. There’s no dedicated dust collection port, so this is not the saw for indoor trim work where you want to hook up a vac. For jobsite and garage work, the blower does exactly what you want: it protects the cutline and keeps the laser usable longer.

Blade changes and maintenance

Blade changes are straightforward. The spindle lock is robust, the included wrench stores on the tool, and the guard tucks out of the way easily. Swapping to a 40‑tooth blade transformed plywood edges from “construction clean” to “paint ready.” General tip: keep the 24T for lumber and demolition; keep a higher‑tooth blade for sheet goods and finish‑facing cuts.

Before first use, I always give fasteners a quick once‑over—handle screws, shoe bolts, and the arbor flange. It’s five minutes that can save you frustration and keep the saw running true.

What I wish were better

• No included rip fence. The shoe accepts one, but compatibility can be finicky. Plan on using a straightedge or track guide.
• No electric brake. The blade coasts for a couple seconds, so you need to be deliberate when setting it down between cuts.
• The lock‑off switch is small. It’s safe, but it took practice to actuate smoothly with gloves on.
• Accessory ecosystem is thin. You get the essentials in the box, but if you like purpose‑built add‑ons (rafter hook, dust ports, proprietary guides), this isn’t that ecosystem.

None of these are dealbreakers for the price, but they’re worth knowing so you can set up your workflow accordingly.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and homeowners who want a reliable, full‑power corded saw for framing, decking, shelving, and general projects.
• Pros who want a dependable backup or a corded option for long rips and shop work without investing in a premium saw.
• Anyone who values a clear cutline, simple adjustments, and included basics (blade, bag, on‑tool wrench) over a deep accessory lineup.

If you primarily cut indoors, need dust extraction, or require an electric brake and a premium shoe for cabinet‑grade work, step up to a higher‑end model. If you’re a track‑saw devotee, consider this a complement, not a replacement.

Tips for best results

• Square the shoe to the blade and verify the 45° stop before your first project.
• Upgrade to a 40–60 tooth blade for plywood and finish cuts; keep the included 24T for framing.
• Use a clamped straightedge in place of a rip fence for long rips—it’s faster and more accurate.
• Set cut depth so 1–2 teeth clear the bottom of the work to reduce tear‑out and binding.
• Support both sides of the cut, especially with wet PT lumber, to avoid pinching and kickback.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil circular saw for builders on a budget, DIYers leveling up from compact or older saws, and pros who want a capable corded backup. It delivers real 15‑amp power, stable tracking, and genuinely helpful touches—a clear cutline blower, a usable laser, easy blade changes, and a wide, confidence‑inspiring shoe—without inflating the price. The trade‑offs are predictable for the class: no electric brake, no included fence, and a small lock‑off switch that takes getting used to. Set your expectations around those limits, pair it with the right blade, and you’ll have a saw that cuts straight, feels controlled, and punches above its cost on everyday jobs.