Bosch Daredevil Multipurpose Drill Bit

A multi-material bit I actually carried for a month

I tossed the Daredevil bit into my everyday kit and forced myself to use it as my one “solve-it” drill bit whenever a task crossed materials: metal bracket today, brick tomorrow, a PVC junction the next. After a month of mixed abuse, I have a clearer picture of where this multipurpose design shines—and where a dedicated bit still wins.

What it is

This is a 1/8-inch, multi-material bit with a tungsten carbide tip, multi-grind cutting geometry, steep flutes, and a no-skate point. The sample I tested was impact-rated with a 1/4-inch hex shank, which locked into my impact driver and hammer drill/driver without wobble. Overall length is 3 inches with a 2-inch working length and roughly 1-5/8-inch flute length. On paper, it’s meant to transition between metal, masonry, wood, tile, and plastics without a bit change.

Build and design

• Tip: The tungsten carbide tip is ground with multiple cutting facets. It’s not a standard twist drill point—more of a hybrid geometry that favors abrasives (masonry, tile) while still being able to bite softer materials.
• Flutes: The steep flutes and small ribs clear debris better than many multipurpose bits I’ve used. In masonry, they make a noticeable difference in keeping the hole from packing.
• Shank: 1/4-inch hex and impact-rated. Handy for quick changes. I still preferred a traditional drill/driver for more controlled RPM in metal and tile.
• No-skate point: On wood and tile glaze it helped start holes accurately. On metal, physics still wants a center punch, and I’d recommend using one.

Metal performance

I tested on 16-gauge mild steel sheet and 1/8-inch angle iron. Technique mattered more than usual:

• Speed: Keep it slow (roughly 400–600 RPM on a drill/driver).
• Pressure: Light to moderate, steady pressure—don’t lean on it.
• Lubrication: Cutting oil made a real impact on heat and edge quality.

On sheet metal, the bit cut cleanly and predictably with minimal walking after a quick center punch. The hole edges showed some burrs (typical for multi-material tips), easily knocked down with a deburring tool. In 1/8-inch angle, I could get through consistently, but progress was slower than with a cobalt twist drill and required clearing chips and reapplying oil. I wouldn’t call this my first choice for a run of steel holes, but it did the job without burning out.

If your day is mostly steel, use cobalt or M42 bits. If you only occasionally touch steel while bouncing between materials, this Daredevil bit is adequate—but be mindful of speed and heat.

Masonry and concrete

Here the bit feels most at home. In a hammer drill/driver, it chewed through cured concrete and brick reliably for small-diameter anchors. I drilled more than a dozen 1/8-inch pilot holes for anchors in a six-month-old slab and some older brick without chipping at the tip or stalling. The carbide edge survived the hammer action better than many “do-it-all” bits. Keep the tool in hammer mode, moderate speed, and back the bit out periodically to clear dust; the steep flutes help a lot, but they aren’t SDS-Plus flutes.

Limitations are inherent to the size: the flute length (about 1.625 inches) caps effective depth, and dust evacuation is less efficient than a dedicated masonry bit. For a handful of light anchor holes, it’s great. For a day of concrete drilling, switch to SDS-Plus.

Tile and brittle materials

On glazed ceramic tile, the no-skate tip genuinely helped start on target without a guide. I ran slow RPM with light pressure and a splash of water for cooling—no hammer mode, ever, on tile. The bit made a clean entry without spidering the glaze. On denser porcelain, it still worked but was slow and clearly nearing the edge of what a generalist tip wants to do. If you have more than one or two holes in porcelain, a dedicated porcelain/tile bit is a better idea.

Wood and PVC

In softwood and plywood, the bit is fine and quick, with a centered start that reduces the need for a pilot. Exit tear-out is a little more than a brad-point bit, as expected. In hardwood, it still cut cleanly at higher RPM. In PVC and ABS, it made neat holes without grabbing; keep the speed moderate to avoid melting.

Accuracy and hole quality

• Starts: The no-skate geometry truly reduces wandering on wood and tile. On metal, a single tap with a center punch gives best results.
• Roundness: Round and true in wood and plastics; in metal, acceptable but not as crisp as a quality twist drill ground for steel.
• Exit quality: Deburr metal, back up wood to control tear-out, and you’ll get pro-looking results.

Durability and heat management

Carbide tips in multi-material bits can chip if abused. I pushed this one through concrete, brick, and steel with sensible technique and it held its edge better than expected. The tip still looks sharp after the month, with no visible chipping. Two habits made the difference:

• Keep RPM appropriate for the material—slow for steel and tile, fast for wood, hammer mode for masonry.
• Clear chips/dust often and use oil on steel or water on tile to manage heat.

If you try to run it like a dedicated high-speed steel bit in steel—high RPM, heavy pressure—you’ll glaze or chip the tip.

Compatibility and handling

The hex shank is a plus in tight jobsite workflows. I used it in:
- An impact driver: workable for quick wood/plastic holes and occasional masonry starts, but the percussive action can chatter in metal—use a drill/driver for control.
- A hammer drill/driver: ideal for masonry and mixed jobs. The bit handled hammer mode without loosening or wobble.

If you buy in-store, confirm you’re getting the hex-shank version you want; packaging can vary across regions and stock.

Where it fits in a kit

• Great for: Service calls, punch-list work, and anyone who encounters multiple materials in one small job. It’s an excellent glovebox/holster bit that prevents constant bit swapping.
• Not ideal for: Long runs in a single tough material. For a full day in concrete, use SDS-Plus. For steel-heavy work, use cobalt or M42 twist drills. For fine woodworking, brad-point bits give cleaner entry and exit.

Tips for best results

• Metal: Center punch, 400–600 RPM, cutting oil, clear chips often.
• Masonry: Hammer mode, moderate RPM, back out to evacuate dust, vacuum as you go.
• Tile: No hammer, low RPM, light pressure, a dab of water, masking tape to steady the start if needed.
• Wood/PVC: Higher RPM is fine; backer board reduces tear-out in plywood.

The bottom line

The Daredevil bit proves that a multipurpose design can be genuinely useful if you respect its limits. It won’t replace a full index of dedicated bits for specialists, but it handles scattered tasks across metal, masonry, wood, tile, and plastics without a mid-job run to the truck. The carbide tip holds up, the flutes clear debris better than average, and the no-skate point reduces headaches on smoother surfaces. In steel it’s serviceable with proper technique; in concrete and brick it’s notably competent for a small-diameter bit.

Recommendation: I recommend the Daredevil bit as a versatile, carry-everywhere option for tradespeople and DIYers who frequently move between materials in light to moderate tasks. It’s not the fastest in any single category, and it won’t beat a dedicated cobalt or SDS bit in their domains, but its durability, accuracy on starts, and true multi-material competence make it a smart addition to a small kit or service pouch.