Skil 7-1/4 In. 24-Tooth Carbide Tipped Circular Saw Blade

Why I reached for this 24-tooth blade

I put Skil’s 7-1/4-in, 24-tooth carbide blade on my everyday circular saw for a week of framing, deck repairs, and shop cuts. I wanted a general-purpose blade I wouldn’t baby: something that rips studs, crosscuts PT lumber, and can tackle a bit of plywood and composite decking without complaining. This blade checks those boxes. It’s not a finish blade and isn’t pretending to be, but it offers predictable, straight cuts at a good pace with fewer headaches than I expect at its price.

Setup and compatibility

Out of the package, the plate was flat, teeth were uniform and sharp, and the clear anti-stick coating felt slick without being gummy. The 5/8-in arbor fit my sidewinder snugly, and the diamond knockout is a thoughtful touch if you’re running older worm-drive saws that still use the diamond arbor. Knockouts can be messy if the stamping is sloppy; this one popped cleanly with pliers and didn’t leave burrs.

The blade’s thin 0.06-in kerf is immediately apparent. If you’re on a cordless saw, that matters: it takes less power to keep the cut moving, which translates to longer runtime and an easier feed. The trade-off with thin kerf is potential deflection if you’re muscling the saw through knots or pinched cuts; the expansion slots here help keep the plate stable.

Cutting performance in wood and framing lumber

For framing, the 24T ATB grind hits the right pace. Ripping SPF 2x material, I could lean into the cut without the motor bogging. The feed felt smooth rather than chattery, and the anti-kickback shoulders did their job when I got a little aggressive starting a rip in a crowned stud—they’re not magic, but they tame the initial bite.

Crosscuts in 2x were clean for a 24-tooth blade—edges weren’t glazed and the ATB left minimal fuzzing on the exit when I supported the piece. On dense knots, I noticed a slight tone change and a hint of lateral walk if I forced the cut; easing up a touch kept the line true. That’s thin-kerf physics at work and not unique to this blade.

I pay attention to tracking on plunge cuts and bevels since thin plates can wander. With a square base and a light touch, this blade stayed on line, and the expansion slots damped the vibration you often feel mid-bevel. Noise was typical thin-kerf “singing,” but not excessive.

Plywood, melamine, and composite decking

Plywood: On construction-grade ply, this 24T made quick work of ripping and crosscutting. Tear-out on the face veneer was modest with the grain and more noticeable across it. I had good luck with painter’s tape and a light scoring pass when I needed a cleaner edge, but for cabinet-grade paneling I’d swap to a 40–60T blade.

Melamine: If you’re expecting chip-free edges on melamine with a 24T, you’ll be disappointed. The blade can handle it in a pinch with tape and a zero-clearance shoe, but a high-tooth-count triple-chip grind is the better tool for that job. This blade is a generalist, and melamine is not its sweet spot.

Composite decking: Composite is abrasive and can melt if you don’t manage heat. The carbide teeth and thin kerf were assets here—cuts were controlled, and chip clearance was good. I dialed back feed rate slightly to keep the cut cool and saw less smearing than I expected. Edge quality was fine for deck framing and stair treads; again, not furniture-grade, but consistent.

Plastic: I used it on 3/4-in PVC sheet and some ABS pipe. With a steady feed and the saw at full speed before contact, the blade sliced without welding chips to the kerf. The anti-stick coating seemed to help shed plastic debris.

Speed versus finish

This blade is tuned for speed. With 24 induction-hardened ATB teeth, it rips and crosscuts faster than it finesses. If your work leans toward framing, rough carpentry, demolition, decking, and jobsite utility, it hits the right performance balance. If you regularly cut veneered panels, hardwood flooring, or prefinished trim, keep a higher tooth-count blade in your bag.

Vibration, heat, and coating

Skil’s clear anti-friction coating earns its keep. After several hours of cutting PT lumber and composite, I had less pitch build-up than usual, and heat discoloration on the plate was minimal. The expansion slots keep the plate quiet and resist warping as it warms. I didn’t see the telltale “S” waves or post-heat wobble that plague bargain blades after a long rip. After a few days, a quick clean with blade cleaner restored the factory sheen.

Durability and tooth life

Carbide composition matters more than tooth count for longevity. The induction-hardened teeth here held an edge respectably through knots, PT, and composite. After a week of daily use, the blade still ripped straight, though the “fresh bite” on crosscuts softened a bit. That’s normal wear for this class. If you treat blades as consumables, this one stretches the replacement cycle. If you sharpen, a 24T is economical to touch up once or twice, but many pros will simply replace at this price tier.

Accuracy and cut feel

What stood out to me was line discipline. The plate stays stable if you let the teeth do the work. In spruce and pine, I could steer with one hand on light passes without the blade wandering—handy when you’re balancing on a ladder cutting rafter tails. Thin kerf means less sawdust and less effort, and the saw’s motor sounds happier for it.

Safety notes

The anti-kickback shoulders are a welcome feature on a general-purpose blade. They don’t replace good technique, but they do smooth the transition into a cut, especially when starting in the middle of a sheet or on a bevel. As always, keep a sharp blade and avoid binding the kerf—thin plates punish sloppy support.

Who it’s for

• Framers and remodelers who need a dependable, fast-cutting general-purpose blade
• Deck builders working with PT and composite who want consistent, straight cuts
• DIYers who keep one blade on the saw most of the time and occasionally switch for fine work
• Cordless saw users who benefit from a thin kerf to preserve runtime and reduce push force

If your day is mostly trim, cabinetry, or delicate sheet goods, you’ll be happier with a 40T, 60T, or higher blade for your primary and keep this 24T for rough-in.

Care and use tips

• Let the saw reach full speed before contacting the work; thin kerf tracks straighter that way.
• Support both sides of the cut to minimize pinching and deflection in long rips.
• For plywood and melamine, use painter’s tape, score your line, and consider a zero-clearance shoe.
• Clean pitch and plastic residue periodically to maintain the anti-stick effect.
• If you pop the diamond knockout, deburr lightly and mark the blade so it always seats the same way on your worm drive.

Value

This blade sits in the “workhorse” slot: affordable, job-ready, and consistent. You can pay more for thicker plates and premium carbide, but for general building tasks, the returns diminish quickly. Here, you get the right set of features—ATB carbide, thin kerf, expansion slots, anti-kickback shoulders, and a versatile arbor setup—without fluff.

The bottom line

Skil’s 24T 7-1/4-in blade is a solid generalist that favors speed and predictability over ultra-fine finish. It stays straight, runs cool, and doesn’t sap your saw’s power. It’s not the blade I’d choose for melamine cabinets or show-edge plywood, but it’s exactly what I want for studs, subfloor, deck boards, and the everyday cuts that make up most of a job.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade as a dependable, budget-friendly general-purpose option for framing, decking, and rough carpentry. The thin 0.06-in kerf, stable plate with expansion slots, and ATB carbide teeth deliver fast, straight cuts with minimal fuss, and the clear anti-stick coating helps it hold that performance over time. Keep a higher tooth-count blade on hand for fine work, and let this one do the heavy lifting.