10 in. Crimping Pliers

Features

  • Crimps 10 to 22 AWG terminals and connectors
  • Chrome vanadium steel construction
  • Bi-material cushion handles for comfort and grip
  • Precision induction-hardened jaws for durability
  • High-leverage pivot for increased crimping, gripping and cutting force
  • 1 in. jaw capacity with 1/2 in. jaw tip
  • Integrated cutting and crimping functions
  • Backed by a limited lifetime warranty

Specifications

Crimper Type All Trades
Hand Tool Type Other Pliers
Plier Type All Trades
Joint Type Fixed Joint
Jaw Capacity 1 in
Jaw Tip Size 0.50 in
Awg Range 10–22 AWG
Material Chrome vanadium steel
Handle Material Bi-material cushion grip
Length 10 in
Width 2.125 in
Height 1 in
Weight 0.9 lb
Finish Black/Yellow
Packaging Hanging card
Manufacturer Warranty Limited lifetime
Unspsc Code 27111500
Country Of Origin China
Returnable 90-Day

10-inch crimping pliers designed for cutting, gripping and crimping electrical connectors. The tool has long, cushion-grip handles for improved leverage and reduced hand fatigue. Jaws are induction hardened for strength and the high-leverage pivot increases crimping and cutting force. Intended to crimp insulated and non-insulated terminals and connectors in the 10–22 AWG range.

Model Number: DWHT70272

DeWalt 10 in. Crimping Pliers Review

4.7 out of 5

First impressions and setup

I tossed the DeWalt crimper into my bag for a couple of weeks of mixed work—automotive splices, a trailer light rewire, a batch of low-voltage terminations, and a few quick panel additions. Out of the package it feels like a proper 10-inch plier: 0.9 lb gives it enough mass to bite cleanly without feeling clumsy, and the bi-material grips are comfortable without being too squishy. The fixed-joint pivot is tight and centered, and the induction-hardened jaws close square from heel to tip. Nothing rattly, no misaligned dies, and the finish held up to a few drops on concrete with only cosmetic scuffs.

Build and ergonomics

  • Length and leverage: At 10 inches, these pliers deliver good mechanical advantage without being a holster hog. The high-leverage pivot does what it says—you can get solid compression with one hand, even on the larger end of the 10–22 AWG range.
  • Handles: The cushion grips are genuinely helpful on longer sessions. They’re not overly thick, so you still get a sure feel of what the die is doing. I never felt hotspot pressure, even after repetitive crimping runs.
  • Materials: Chrome vanadium steel and induction-hardened cutting edges are standard fare at this price point. The jaws resisted peening and stayed aligned under load. The tool is made in China and backed by a limited lifetime warranty.

One note: there’s no spring return, so this is a conventional plier feel—fine for most electricians and techs, but worth mentioning if you like spring-loaded cutters.

Crimping performance

The die set covers 10–22 AWG and includes profiles for both insulated and non-insulated terminals. The markings are readable, and the nest sizes line up with the common red/blue/yellow scheme. Here’s how it shook out across common use:

  • Non‑insulated terminals: Crisp results. On bare barrel butt splices and ring terminals, the tool puts a definitive dimple into the barrel and creates a secure mechanical lock. I had consistent pull-out resistance with both 16 AWG and 12 AWG copper. The die geometry leaves a clean indentation without excessive flaring. For non-insulated connectors, this crimper is easy to trust.
  • Insulated terminals: Results are more mixed. On vinyl-insulated butt splices and spades, it’s easy to crease or nick the insulation if you’re heavy-handed or slightly off-center. Nylon-insulated and heat-shrink terminals fared better, likely thanks to their tougher jackets. Technique matters a lot—orient the barrel seam opposite the die’s anvil, center the barrel, and squeeze until the insulation just compresses rather than collapses. Done right, the connection is serviceable and withstands tug tests; done hastily, you can cut into the jacket.

If you crimp insulated terminals all day, a ratcheting crimper with controlled compression will give more repeatable, jacket-friendly results. For mixed work or occasional insulated crimps, these pliers are passable with careful technique.

Cutting and gripping

The integrated cutter cleanly snips stranded copper in the rated range. I cut dozens of leads from 22 to 10 AWG copper and got clean, round ends with minimal strand splay. On 10 AWG, a firm single squeeze did the job; I didn’t need to saw or twist. The cutting edges are not flush cutters, but they’re sharp enough for clean work.

Where they bog down is hard material. Don’t use these on steel screws, music wire, or staples. The edges will mark. After a few ill-advised cuts on a zinc-plated screw, I noticed minor micro-nicks that didn’t affect copper cutting much, but it’s a reminder: this isn’t a bolt cutter.

The serrated gripping surfaces are useful for positioning connectors and tug-testing. They’re also handy when you need to pull small staples or fish a cable end from a tight space. With a 1-inch jaw capacity and half-inch tip, the nose gets into most junction boxes without a fight.

Capacity and real-world use

  • Automotive and trailer wiring: For 16–12 AWG splices and terminals, the tool shines—especially on non-insulated butt splices and ring terminals to battery lugs. Heat-shrink terminals worked well with mindful pressure.
  • Low-voltage and controls: Great for quick, tidy terminations up to 18–22 AWG. The cutter is precise enough for small-strand copper.
  • Residential electrical: Works for pigtails and device leads, though I’d still reach for a dedicated ratcheting crimper for high-visibility or inspection-critical insulated terminations.
  • Marine: It’ll do the job, but corrosion-resistant, tinned connectors and a ratcheting crimper generally yield better long-term reliability in that environment.

It’s worth noting the official range stops at 10 AWG. If you routinely crimp 8 AWG or larger, you’ll want a different tool.

Durability and maintenance

After a couple weeks of varied use, the pivot remained tight, the dies stayed true, and the cutter still produced clean edges on copper. The only visible wear was from those ill-advised steel cuts. Wipe the tool down after wet or dirty jobs; the black/yellow finish resists rust reasonably, but it’s still carbon-alloy steel—keep oil on the pivot and store it dry.

I didn’t see any jaw roll or misalignment, and the handle grips didn’t creep or rotate. For a mid-priced crimper/cutter, it holds up fine. If you baby the cutting edges and keep to copper and aluminum, longevity should be solid.

Technique tips for better crimps

  • Match die size: Use the correct nest for red (22–18 AWG), blue (16–14 AWG), or yellow (12–10 AWG).
  • Orient the seam: Place the barrel seam opposite the die’s dimple side to avoid splitting.
  • Control the squeeze: On insulated terminals, stop when the barrel is fully set and the jacket is just compressed—over-travel is what causes jacket cuts.
  • Tug test every connection: A quick pull verifies mechanical integrity before you shrink tubing or close a box.

These technique tweaks make a noticeable difference with this style of crimper.

Comparisons and alternatives

Compared to a ratcheting crimper:
- Pros for these pliers: Faster one-handed operation, lighter and more compact, integrated cutter, lower cost.
- Cons: Less consistent compression on insulated connectors, easier to over-crimp, no ratchet to lock in a precise force.

Compared to multi-tool strippers with light-duty crimpers:
- These pliers are stronger, deliver a more reliable crimp on non-insulated terminals, and cut heavy gauge copper with less effort. You do give up the convenience of built-in stripping slots.

Quirks and limitations

  • Insulated connector sensitivity: The die edges are a bit aggressive on thin vinyl jackets. Nylon or heat-shrink terminals fare better.
  • No ratchet: Speed is great, consistency is on you.
  • Not a stripper: You’ll still need a dedicated stripper in your kit.
  • Edge longevity depends on discipline: Stick to copper and aluminum; avoid fasteners.

Who it’s for

  • Good fit: Homeowners, DIYers, and general trades who want a sturdy, do-most-of-it crimper/cutter for 10–22 AWG with comfortable leverage and minimal fuss. Great as a truck-box or go-bag tool when you don’t want to carry two tools.
  • Less ideal: Production techs or marine electricians relying heavily on insulated terminals who need repeatable, jacket-friendly crimps all day long. In that scenario, a ratcheting crimper is the better primary tool, with these as a backup cutter/gripper.

Bottom line recommendation

I recommend these pliers as a value-forward, all-in-one crimper/cutter for mixed electrical work in the 10–22 AWG range—especially if you’re doing a blend of non-insulated and occasional insulated connectors. They’re comfortable, leverage-rich, and durable enough for regular use, with the bonus of a lifetime warranty. If your day is dominated by insulated terminations where cosmetic and repeatable compression matters, opt for a ratcheting crimper as your main tool and keep this DeWalt crimper as a capable, tough backup that still earns its spot for cutting and non-insulated work.



Project Ideas

Business

Mobile Low-Voltage Install & Repair

Offer on-site installation and troubleshooting for landscape lighting, doorbells, thermostats, under-cabinet LEDs, and garage sensors. Use the crimping pliers to deliver fast, reliable terminations (10–22 AWG) with insulated and adhesive-lined heat-shrink connectors. Sell tiered packages (basic, weatherproof, pro-grade) and include before/after photos to showcase tidy harnessing.


Custom Motorcycle/Classic Car Harness Kits

Build made-to-order sub-harnesses for auxiliaries (lights, horns, USB chargers) using tinned copper wire and labeled ring/spade terminals. The tool’s precision jaws and high-leverage crimp ensure OEM-quality connections for 10–18 AWG circuits. Provide color-coded diagrams and extra terminals; sell online and at car/bike meets.


Marine/RV Electrical Clean-Up Service

Specialize in auditing and re-terminating corroded or unreliable 12V connections on boats and RVs. Replace poor splices with proper 10–22 AWG crimps and adhesive-lined heat-shrink, bundle looms, and label circuits. Offer a flat-rate inspection plus per-circuit pricing, with upsells for tinned wire, terminal upgrades, and fuse panel refreshes.


DIY Lighting Upgrade Kits

Sell kits for pantry/closet LEDs, under-shelf lighting, or PC case lighting that include pre-cut wire, terminals, heat-shrink, cable clips, and a step-by-step guide. Use the pliers to prep clean, consistent crimps in production. Bundle optional tool add-ons and provide video support to reduce returns and boost customer success.


Hands-On Crimping Workshops

Host beginner-friendly classes teaching safe crimping, wire sizing (10–22 AWG), and connector selection for home, auto, and hobby projects. Monetize via ticket sales, partner-sponsored materials, and on-site tool/kit bundles. Include a take-home project (LED desk lamp or landscape light splice) to reinforce skills and market your services.

Creative

Upcycled Industrial Pipe Lamp

Build a table lamp from black iron pipe and a vintage-style bulb. Use the crimping pliers to cut and strip 18 AWG lamp cord, then crimp ring or spade terminals for the switch, socket, and grounded plug. Finish each connection with heat-shrink to create a safe, clean wiring path hidden inside the pipe. The high-leverage pivot makes solid crimps on insulated terminals so the lamp is reliable and serviceable.


Modular LED Accent Wall Panels

Create a set of interchangeable wall art panels using LED strips on plywood or acrylic. Crimp quick-disconnects (2-pin/3-pin) and spade terminals on 20–22 AWG leads so panels can be swapped or rearranged without soldering. Use the integrated cutter to size leads neatly and the hardened jaws to ensure consistent crimps on both insulated and non-insulated connectors.


Wearable LED Cosplay Harness

Design a low-profile wiring harness for illuminated armor or props. Crimp JST-style pigtails or miniature spade/ring terminals onto 22–20 AWG silicone wire to connect LED modules, switches, and a battery pack. The long, cushion-grip handles reduce fatigue while making many small crimps, and the precise jaws help avoid damaging delicate conductors.


Solar Mason Jar Garden Lights

Convert mason jars into solar-powered pathway lights. Use the pliers to cut wire, crimp butt splices and ring terminals for 22–18 AWG leads between the solar cell, charge board, and LED. Add adhesive-lined heat-shrink over crimps for weather resistance. The 1 in jaw capacity accommodates small waterproof connectors cleanly.


Kinetic Desk Sculpture with Microswitches

Build a small mechanical sculpture that actuates microswitches to trigger LEDs or sound. Crimp 2.8/4.8 mm spade terminals onto 22–20 AWG wires for quick switch hookups, and ring terminals for a central ground bus. The high-leverage pivot ensures tight terminations that tolerate vibration from moving parts.