DeWalt 10 in. Crimping Pliers

First impressions and setup

I tossed the DeWalt crimper into my bag for a couple of weeks of mixed work—automotive splices, a trailer light rewire, a batch of low-voltage terminations, and a few quick panel additions. Out of the package it feels like a proper 10-inch plier: 0.9 lb gives it enough mass to bite cleanly without feeling clumsy, and the bi-material grips are comfortable without being too squishy. The fixed-joint pivot is tight and centered, and the induction-hardened jaws close square from heel to tip. Nothing rattly, no misaligned dies, and the finish held up to a few drops on concrete with only cosmetic scuffs.

Build and ergonomics

• Length and leverage: At 10 inches, these pliers deliver good mechanical advantage without being a holster hog. The high-leverage pivot does what it says—you can get solid compression with one hand, even on the larger end of the 10–22 AWG range.
• Handles: The cushion grips are genuinely helpful on longer sessions. They’re not overly thick, so you still get a sure feel of what the die is doing. I never felt hotspot pressure, even after repetitive crimping runs.
• Materials: Chrome vanadium steel and induction-hardened cutting edges are standard fare at this price point. The jaws resisted peening and stayed aligned under load. The tool is made in China and backed by a limited lifetime warranty.

One note: there’s no spring return, so this is a conventional plier feel—fine for most electricians and techs, but worth mentioning if you like spring-loaded cutters.

Crimping performance

The die set covers 10–22 AWG and includes profiles for both insulated and non-insulated terminals. The markings are readable, and the nest sizes line up with the common red/blue/yellow scheme. Here’s how it shook out across common use:

• Non‑insulated terminals: Crisp results. On bare barrel butt splices and ring terminals, the tool puts a definitive dimple into the barrel and creates a secure mechanical lock. I had consistent pull-out resistance with both 16 AWG and 12 AWG copper. The die geometry leaves a clean indentation without excessive flaring. For non-insulated connectors, this crimper is easy to trust.
• Insulated terminals: Results are more mixed. On vinyl-insulated butt splices and spades, it’s easy to crease or nick the insulation if you’re heavy-handed or slightly off-center. Nylon-insulated and heat-shrink terminals fared better, likely thanks to their tougher jackets. Technique matters a lot—orient the barrel seam opposite the die’s anvil, center the barrel, and squeeze until the insulation just compresses rather than collapses. Done right, the connection is serviceable and withstands tug tests; done hastily, you can cut into the jacket.

If you crimp insulated terminals all day, a ratcheting crimper with controlled compression will give more repeatable, jacket-friendly results. For mixed work or occasional insulated crimps, these pliers are passable with careful technique.

Cutting and gripping

The integrated cutter cleanly snips stranded copper in the rated range. I cut dozens of leads from 22 to 10 AWG copper and got clean, round ends with minimal strand splay. On 10 AWG, a firm single squeeze did the job; I didn’t need to saw or twist. The cutting edges are not flush cutters, but they’re sharp enough for clean work.

Where they bog down is hard material. Don’t use these on steel screws, music wire, or staples. The edges will mark. After a few ill-advised cuts on a zinc-plated screw, I noticed minor micro-nicks that didn’t affect copper cutting much, but it’s a reminder: this isn’t a bolt cutter.

The serrated gripping surfaces are useful for positioning connectors and tug-testing. They’re also handy when you need to pull small staples or fish a cable end from a tight space. With a 1-inch jaw capacity and half-inch tip, the nose gets into most junction boxes without a fight.

Capacity and real-world use

• Automotive and trailer wiring: For 16–12 AWG splices and terminals, the tool shines—especially on non-insulated butt splices and ring terminals to battery lugs. Heat-shrink terminals worked well with mindful pressure.
• Low-voltage and controls: Great for quick, tidy terminations up to 18–22 AWG. The cutter is precise enough for small-strand copper.
• Residential electrical: Works for pigtails and device leads, though I’d still reach for a dedicated ratcheting crimper for high-visibility or inspection-critical insulated terminations.
• Marine: It’ll do the job, but corrosion-resistant, tinned connectors and a ratcheting crimper generally yield better long-term reliability in that environment.

It’s worth noting the official range stops at 10 AWG. If you routinely crimp 8 AWG or larger, you’ll want a different tool.

Durability and maintenance

After a couple weeks of varied use, the pivot remained tight, the dies stayed true, and the cutter still produced clean edges on copper. The only visible wear was from those ill-advised steel cuts. Wipe the tool down after wet or dirty jobs; the black/yellow finish resists rust reasonably, but it’s still carbon-alloy steel—keep oil on the pivot and store it dry.

I didn’t see any jaw roll or misalignment, and the handle grips didn’t creep or rotate. For a mid-priced crimper/cutter, it holds up fine. If you baby the cutting edges and keep to copper and aluminum, longevity should be solid.

Technique tips for better crimps

• Match die size: Use the correct nest for red (22–18 AWG), blue (16–14 AWG), or yellow (12–10 AWG).
• Orient the seam: Place the barrel seam opposite the die’s dimple side to avoid splitting.
• Control the squeeze: On insulated terminals, stop when the barrel is fully set and the jacket is just compressed—over-travel is what causes jacket cuts.
• Tug test every connection: A quick pull verifies mechanical integrity before you shrink tubing or close a box.

These technique tweaks make a noticeable difference with this style of crimper.

Comparisons and alternatives

Compared to a ratcheting crimper:
- Pros for these pliers: Faster one-handed operation, lighter and more compact, integrated cutter, lower cost.
- Cons: Less consistent compression on insulated connectors, easier to over-crimp, no ratchet to lock in a precise force.

Compared to multi-tool strippers with light-duty crimpers:
- These pliers are stronger, deliver a more reliable crimp on non-insulated terminals, and cut heavy gauge copper with less effort. You do give up the convenience of built-in stripping slots.

Quirks and limitations

• Insulated connector sensitivity: The die edges are a bit aggressive on thin vinyl jackets. Nylon or heat-shrink terminals fare better.
• No ratchet: Speed is great, consistency is on you.
• Not a stripper: You’ll still need a dedicated stripper in your kit.
• Edge longevity depends on discipline: Stick to copper and aluminum; avoid fasteners.

Who it’s for

• Good fit: Homeowners, DIYers, and general trades who want a sturdy, do-most-of-it crimper/cutter for 10–22 AWG with comfortable leverage and minimal fuss. Great as a truck-box or go-bag tool when you don’t want to carry two tools.
• Less ideal: Production techs or marine electricians relying heavily on insulated terminals who need repeatable, jacket-friendly crimps all day long. In that scenario, a ratcheting crimper is the better primary tool, with these as a backup cutter/gripper.

Bottom line recommendation

I recommend these pliers as a value-forward, all-in-one crimper/cutter for mixed electrical work in the 10–22 AWG range—especially if you’re doing a blend of non-insulated and occasional insulated connectors. They’re comfortable, leverage-rich, and durable enough for regular use, with the bonus of a lifetime warranty. If your day is dominated by insulated terminations where cosmetic and repeatable compression matters, opt for a ratcheting crimper as your main tool and keep this DeWalt crimper as a capable, tough backup that still earns its spot for cutting and non-insulated work.