Bosch 7 pc. Hex Shank Hammer Drill Masonry Bit Set

Why I reached for this set

Hanging shelves on a basement wall, mounting a shower door, and running cable clips along a brick facade gave me a good excuse to put the Bosch hex‑shank masonry bits to work. I wanted a compact set that would live in my drill bag, lock into an impact driver when I’m moving fast, and still behave properly in a hammer drill when the material gets stubborn. This seven‑piece set checked those boxes and then some.

What’s in the box and why it matters

The assortment covers the most common anchor sizes for light to medium-duty work: 1/8 in. for small plastic anchors, duplicates of 5/32 and 3/16 in. for tapcons and light anchors, a 1/4 in., and a 3/8 in. for larger shield anchors. Most are 6 in. long, with a shorter 1/8 in. for tighter spots. The duplicates are thoughtful—3/16 and 5/32 are the sizes you burn through first when setting a lot of anchors.

Every bit has a hex shank that slips into quick‑change impact collets and also grips fine in a standard three‑jaw chuck. The shanks are “impact‑rated,” and I’ll talk about why that matters in practice.

Up front, the carbide is diamond‑ground and slightly asymmetric. You can see and feel the sharpness out of the package, and that grind is what helps these bits bite cleanly into concrete, mortar, brick, and softer stone without skating around.

Build quality and design

• Hex shank: The flats prevent the bit from spinning in the chuck under load. In my hammer drill, I had zero slippage even when drilling overhead in cured concrete. In an impact driver, the shank locks positively with no wiggle.
• Tip geometry: The diamond‑ground carbide presents crisp cutting edges. The asymmetric grind sheds dust effectively and seems to reduce the tendency to jam when you run into small aggregate.
• Straightness and runout: I checked three bits in a precision chuck—runout was minimal. In the field, holes landed where I marked them without wandering once the tip had a light dimple to start.

Overall fit and finish are on par with what I expect from Bosch: clean brazing at the tip, consistent flute geometry, and no burrs on the shanks.

Performance in different tools and materials

I split my testing between a 1/2 in. corded hammer drill and an 18V impact driver.

• Hammer drill (preferred for concrete): In poured concrete (3,000–4,000 PSI), the 3/16 in. and 1/4 in. bits cut quickly with a crisp hammering cadence. A 3/16 in. hole for a Tapcon took around 10–15 seconds at moderate pressure, and hole size stayed true across five consecutive holes without overheating. In older, more brittle block, I backed off the hammering rate slightly to prevent blowout, and the bits still produced clean entries.
• Impact driver (convenient for lighter tasks): On brick and mortar, the impact driver did fine with 5/32 in. and 3/16 in. holes for anchors, especially when I wanted quick bit changes. In dense concrete, the impact driver worked but was noticeably slower and generated more heat. If concrete is your main course, a hammer drill or SDS‑Plus rotary hammer remains the right tool; consider the impact driver a “nice to have” for speed on lighter substrates.

On tile (glazed ceramic), I started with low RPM, painter’s tape to keep the bit from skating, and no hammering until the glaze was breached. The 1/4 in. bit cut cleanly with minimal chipping. I wouldn’t use these on porcelain tile; a dedicated spear‑point glass/tile bit is safer there.

Hole quality and accuracy

These bits track straight. The asymmetric tip still centers well with a light punch or a small pilot. In brick and block, holes were round and to size, and Tapcons grabbed as expected without reaming. In poured concrete, I measured only a slight oversize in the 3/16 in. holes after multiple uses, which is normal as the edges wear in. Exit blowout is mostly about technique—back off the feed pressure right before breakthrough and you’ll keep the edges cleaner.

Dust ejection is decent for a compact flute. If you’re inside, a vacuum nozzle near the hole makes a noticeable difference in both speed and bit temperature.

Durability and wear

Carbide longevity is where this set pulls ahead of off‑brand bits. After about two dozen 3/16 in. holes in cured concrete, the primary cutting edge still felt sharp to the fingernail test, and drilling time hadn’t significantly increased. I did glaze a 1/4 in. bit using an impact driver on a dense slab—user error from too much pressure and not enough clearing. A quick reset (slower RPM, let the bit breathe) brought performance back in line.

The impact‑rated shanks are not just marketing. I’ve had lesser hex‑shank masonry bits spin or round over at the flats in an impact driver during stubborn starts. These shanks stayed crisp, and I saw no twisting or mushrooming.

Where this set shines

• Convenience: One set that works in both an impact driver and a hammer drill, with the sizes you actually reach for most.
• Grip and control: The hex shank prevents those infuriating mid‑hole slips in a three‑jaw chuck.
• Consistency: The duplicate mid‑sizes mean you can keep moving if you dull a bit mid‑project.
• Clean starts: The ground carbide tips bite quickly without skating, especially helpful when drilling overhead or on uneven brick faces.

What it won’t replace

• SDS‑Plus bits for heavy, repetitive concrete drilling: If you’re drilling dozens of 3/8 in. holes in high‑PSI concrete all day, step up to an SDS‑Plus rotary hammer and two‑cutter or four‑cutter bits. This set will do the job, just more slowly and with more heat.
• Specialty tile bits: For porcelain, glass, or polished stone, grab a spear‑point or diamond core bit. These masonry bits can chip hard, brittle surfaces.
• Larger diameters or long‑reach holes: The largest bit here is 3/8 in., and most are 6 in. long. That covers a huge percentage of anchor work, but not everything. There’s also a gap at 5/16 in., which some anchor systems use.

Practical tips for best results

• Let the bit do the work: Moderate pressure, steady feed. If the tone changes or progress slows, back out to clear dust.
• Choose the right mode: Hammer drill for concrete and block; impact driver is fine for brick, mortar, and quick anchor holes when convenience matters.
• Mark and start smart: A light hammer tap with a nail set, or painter’s tape on smooth surfaces, reduces walking.
• Manage heat: Especially with an impact driver, pause to clear dust and keep RPMs reasonable. Overheating glazes carbide.
• Respect rebar: If you hit steel, stop. Either move the hole or switch to a metal‑cutting solution designed for rebar.

Value

As a compact, throw‑in‑the‑bag set, the Bosch hex‑shank masonry bits offer strong value. The sizes are well chosen, the duplicates are a real advantage, and the bits hold an edge longer than bargain alternatives I’ve used. The ability to bounce between an impact driver and a hammer drill without swapping chucks saves real time on punch‑list days.

The bottom line

The Bosch 7‑piece hex‑shank masonry set has earned a permanent spot in my kit. The bits start cleanly, drill to size, and hold up across brick, block, and poured concrete. The hex shank design genuinely improves grip and makes an impact driver a viable option for lighter masonry tasks. While they won’t replace SDS‑Plus bits for heavy drilling or specialty bits for porcelain, they cover the vast majority of anchoring jobs with less fuss and more consistency than generic sets.

Recommendation: I recommend this set for DIYers and pros who need a reliable, grab‑and‑go masonry assortment that plays well with both hammer drills and impact drivers. It’s a smart everyday kit for anchors up to 3/8 in., with durability that outpaces budget bits and design details that make real‑world drilling easier. If your work is dominated by heavy, repetitive concrete drilling or specialty tile, pair this set with SDS‑Plus or tile‑specific bits; for everything else, this Bosch set is an easy yes.