Bosch T-Shank Jig Saw Blade, 3-1/4 in, 24 TPI Carbide Edge for Stainless Steel

Why I reached for this blade

Stainless steel has a way of humbling otherwise capable blades. For years, my go-to for thin sheet was a bi‑metal jigsaw blade—fine for mild steel, disappointing on stainless. I picked up this Bosch carbide jigsaw blade to see if a compact, T‑shank option could realistically handle 10–16 gauge stainless without resorting to a shear, band saw, or plasma cutter. Short answer: it can, provided you respect its pace and manage heat. Over a few shop projects and field fixes, it earned a spot in my metalworking drawer.

What it is

This is a 3-1/4 in T‑shank jigsaw blade with a carbide‑tipped cutting edge, rated at 24 TPI. It’s designed for thin metals—sheet metal between 10–16 gauge and solid stock from 1/16 to 1/8 in, both ferrous and non‑ferrous. The kerf is thin, which keeps cutting forces and heat down and helps the blade track. It’s sold as a single blade, which says something about Bosch’s confidence in the lifespan.

I ran it in a variable‑speed barrel‑grip jigsaw with the orbital action off. The T‑shank fit is standard and positive.

Setup and technique that made the difference

The key with stainless is heat management and control. I used:

• Slow to moderate stroke rate (around 800–1,200 SPM)
• No orbital action
• Light, steady feed pressure
• Cutting fluid or a spritz of water (tapping fluid for steel, wax for aluminum)
• A taped surface and a sacrificial backer to minimize chatter and marring
• Work clamped solidly on both sides of the cut

With that setup, the blade tracks predictably, and the carbide edge stays cool enough to keep its bite.

Cutting performance on stainless steel

My main test was 16‑gauge 304 stainless sheet, making long straight runs and a few gentle arcs. With cutting fluid and a conservative feed, the Bosch carbide blade stayed in control. It doesn’t “saw” like a coarse wood blade; it grinds and nibbles with a very fine chip. The thin kerf helps reduce drag, and I could feel the motor working easier than with a bi‑metal blade in the same material.

Speed-wise, it’s not quick. Expect a steady, deliberate pace—think less than an inch per second on long cuts in stainless. But the consistency is the payoff. The blade didn’t overheat, didn’t squeal once lubricated, and didn’t round over prematurely. I comfortably got several meters of linear cutting in 16‑gauge stainless before the cut slowed and the edge started to polish. That’s far beyond what I typically squeeze out of a bi‑metal blade in the same material.

Cut quality is good for a jigsaw: narrow kerf, modest burrs, and a surprisingly straight edge if you use a fence. Burrs are inevitable on stainless; plan to dress the edge with a file or a quick pass on a deburring wheel.

Other metals: mild steel and aluminum

In 14–16 gauge mild steel, the blade feels almost relaxed. You can bump the speed slightly and still maintain good control. Edge quality is cleaner and the blade runs cooler.

In 1/16–1/8 in aluminum, cutting wax helps a lot; aluminum will smear without it. With wax, the blade leaves a crisp edge and very small burrs. Too much speed will load the teeth; keep it moderate.

Curves, scrolls, and bevels

This blade is short and relatively stiff for its length, and the thin kerf tracks well. It’s not a scroll-cutting specialist, but it will handle gentle curves in sheet metal without binding. Tight inside radii aren’t realistic; drill relief holes at corners and think in terms of smooth arcs rather than sharp turns. I found a minimum comfortable inside radius around 1–1.5 in in stainless before the blade started to protest.

Bevel cuts are workable but amplify friction and heat. If you tilt the shoe, slow down and add lube; the carbide edge can handle it, but the jigsaw will work harder.

Heat, wear, and blade life

Carbide brazing is the headline feature here. Compared with bi‑metal, it’s far more tolerant of the heat that stainless throws back at you. That doesn’t mean you can abuse it. Dry cutting, high orbital, and aggressive feed will smoke any metal-cutting jigsaw blade. Treated right—non‑orbital, slowed stroke, and lubricant—I saw a healthy life span for an edge this compact. When it does dull, it’s gradual; you’ll feel the feed rate taper and the sound shift before cut quality goes south.

One note: the thin kerf is a double‑edged sword. It reduces heat and cut effort, but it also means there’s less cross‑section to resist twisting. If you try to steer abruptly or pry the workpiece mid‑cut, you can chip the carbide or kink the blade. Keep your line gentle and let the teeth do the work.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Thickness cap: 1/8 in is the realistic upper limit. If your project involves channel, angle, or plate thicker than that, use a band saw, a cut‑off wheel, or a shear.
• Speed: It’s not a production tool for stainless. Expect deliberate progress, not a shower of sparks and instant results.
• Curvature: Tight scroll work in metal still favors nibblers, shears, or a fine‑tooth scroll blade in softer materials.
• Cost per blade: Carbide blades aren’t cheap. The value shows up in stainless life span, but if you only cut mild steel occasionally, a bi‑metal blade might be more economical.

Value and who it’s for

For tradespeople and fabricators who occasionally need to cut stainless sheet on site—HVAC cutouts, custom brackets, sink modifications—this Bosch carbide blade is a practical, packable solution that fits the jigsaw you already own. In the shop, it’s a smart backup when the shear isn’t set up or the band saw is occupied. If stainless is your daily bread, step up to stationary machines or purpose-built portable tools. For the rest of us who wrestle stainless now and then, the longevity and predictability justify the price.

Tips for best results

• Turn off orbital action for metals.
• Use cutting fluid (or water at a minimum) to manage heat, especially in stainless.
• Slow the stroke rate and feed lightly; let the carbide bite at its own pace.
• Clamp the work and use a sacrificial backer to reduce chatter and backside burrs.
• Tape the shoe or use a non‑marring overshoe to protect finished surfaces.
• Drill relief holes at tight inside corners to avoid forced turns.
• Guide straight cuts with a fence for cleaner edges and less wander.
• Deburr after cutting for a safe, finished edge.

The bottom line

This Bosch carbide jigsaw blade won me over by doing a hard job predictably well. It won’t replace a plasma cutter or band saw, and it doesn’t pretend to. What it offers is control: a thin, accurate kerf in stainless and other thin metals, steady progress without burning up, and compatibility with the T‑shank jigsaw already in your kit. If you respect its limits—thickness, speed, and curve radius—it delivers clean, workable cuts and far better life in stainless than the bi‑metal options I’ve used.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade for anyone who needs a reliable way to cut thin stainless or other sheet metals with a jigsaw. It’s particularly valuable for on-site work and occasional shop tasks where portability and control matter. If your work leans toward thicker stock or high-volume cutting, look to heavier machinery; otherwise, this is a capable, durable blade that earns its keep.