DeWalt 4 in. 6 TPI U-Shank Wood Cutting Jig Saw Blade

Why I picked up this blade

I reach for coarse jigsaw blades when I need to move fast through framing lumber, rough out sink cutouts, or knock down stock where a circular saw doesn’t make sense. DeWalt’s 4-inch, 6 TPI U‑shank wood blade sits squarely in that lane. It promises fast cuts, chip clearing, and a stiffer body than bargain blades, all in a simple two‑pack. I ran it through common jobsite and shop tasks to see where it excels and where you’ll want a different tooth profile.

Setup and compatibility

This is a U‑shank blade. That matters. Many modern jigsaws are T‑shank only, and this blade won’t lock into those tool‑free clamps. I tested it in two saws: an older jig saw with a screw‑type universal clamp and a hybrid clamp that accepts both U and T shanks. Installation was straightforward in both, though a U‑shank obviously isn’t as quick as a T‑shank in a lever‑style chuck. If your jig saw is T‑shank only, stop here and look for the equivalent T‑shank option.

At 4 inches overall, you can comfortably tackle 3/4-inch and 1‑1/2‑inch material. Once you get into 2‑inch hardwoods, you’re near the practical limit of a blade this length and stiffness. The blade’s height (about 9/16 inch from back to tooth) adds welcome rigidity during straight cuts, but it also increases the minimum turning radius compared with skinny scrolling blades.

Cutting speed and control

With 6 TPI and deep gullets, this blade is built for speed. In 2x SPF, it ripped on high orbital with very little bogging, clearing chips effectively and resisting the heat buildup I see with finer tooth counts. In 3/4-inch plywood, it stayed quick without packing chips, though orbital action brought the usual trade‑off in surface quality.

What stood out was tracking. Coarse jigsaw blades can wander as you push, especially in thicker stock. The DeWalt U‑shank wood blade held a straighter line than the generic stamped blades cluttering many shop drawers. Using a fence and modest feed pressure, I kept bevel error to a minimum through 1‑1/2‑inch pine and poplar. If you get aggressive and lean into the saw, you can still force a bevel, but the blade’s height provides better guidance than narrower options.

Cut quality: rough, but predictable

At 6 TPI you won’t get a furniture‑ready edge. In 3/4-inch birch ply, the top face showed typical splintering when run with orbital action; dialing orbital to zero and slowing feed improved things, but the edge still needed cleanup. In solid hardwoods like maple, the cut was cleaner than I expected for the tooth count, thanks to the precision‑ground teeth, but it remained a “construction‑grade” finish.

If you care about the show face, use painter’s tape on the cut line and back the work with scrap to reduce tear‑out. For laminates or veneered panels, I’d swap to a finer or down‑cut blade. This DeWalt is at its best where speed matters more than finish.

Curves and tight turns

The blade’s geometry favors stability over nimble turns. It handled gentle curves for sink cutouts and sweeping templates without complaint, but tight scroll work isn’t its purpose. Trying to force tight radii increases side loading and heats the blade, which dulls edges faster and invites drift. Keep your radius generous and let the saw do the work; the blade will reward you with straighter cuts and longer life.

Durability and materials

There’s some confusion in retailer listings about construction: some say high‑carbon steel (HCS), others say bi‑metal with cobalt alloy. The packaging on the blades I tested lists HCS, and my use supports that. In wood, the edge held up well across multiple cuts in construction lumber, hardwood, and ply. After a morning of mixed work, the teeth were still cutting fast with no missing gullets.

As with most HCS blades, incidental contact with a buried fastener will take the edge off quickly. I nicked a small brad in a piece of trim, and the affected teeth dulled, slowing the cut until I swapped blades. If you expect nails or screws in the path, a bi‑metal blade is the safer bet. For clean wood, HCS keeps costs reasonable and speed high.

Heat resistance was good. The deep gullets shed chips, so the blade didn’t burn in resinous pine unless I stalled the stroke in a tight turn. A quick pause to clear dust and a lower speed setting prevented discoloration on tougher hardwoods.

What I liked

• Fast, confident cutting in 2x material and 3/4-inch sheet goods
• Stiffer feel than basic stamped blades; better tracking and squareness in thicker stock
• Precision‑ground teeth that start easily and resist grabbing at the beginning of a cut
• Deep gullets that keep chips moving, reducing heat and burn
• Straightforward fit in U‑shank and universal clamps

Where it falls short

• U‑shank limits compatibility with many modern T‑shank‑only jigsaws
• Coarse 6 TPI leaves a rough edge; not ideal for splinter‑prone veneers without mitigation
• Blade height limits tight‑radius curves
• HCS dulls quickly if you hit metal; check your work or choose a bi‑metal alternative if that’s a risk
• The 4-inch length caps your practical cut depth; for 2x hardwoods or thicker beams, you’ll want a longer blade

Best use cases

• Rough cutouts in countertops and subfloor where you need to move quickly
• Trimming framing, blocking, and fence pickets to length on the fly
• Fast straight or gentle curved cuts in pine, fir, poplar, and common hardwoods
• Breaking down plywood where edge quality isn’t critical or will be hidden by trim

Tips for getting the most from it

• Use orbital action for speed in solid wood; turn orbital off for cleaner plywood edges
• Support both sides of sheet goods and use painter’s tape on the show face to reduce tear‑out
• Let the blade establish the kerf—don’t force feed rate; that’s when drift and bevel error show up
• For curves, plan generous radii; switch to a narrower scrolling blade if you need tight turns
• Keep a spare in the two‑pack handy and swap as soon as you feel cutting effort increase

The material mix question

If you see this blade advertised as bi‑metal, confirm against the packaging. The set I tested is clearly marked HCS, and performance matched HCS behavior: great in wood, quick to dull on metal. There are DeWalt bi‑metal options if you need nail tolerance; just make sure the shank style and tooth count match your task.

Bottom line and recommendation

I’d recommend the DeWalt U‑shank wood blade to anyone running a jig saw that accepts U‑shank blades and needs fast, controlled cuts in wood. It strikes a useful balance: coarse enough to be quick, stiff enough to track straight, and refined enough in tooth geometry to start cleanly and resist chatter. It won’t replace a fine‑tooth blade for splinter‑sensitive work or a bi‑metal blade for demolition through unknown materials, but that’s not the assignment here.

If your saw is T‑shank‑only, this isn’t for you. If you’re chasing cabinet‑grade edges, pick a higher TPI or down‑cut blade. For rough carpentry, shop projects, and general cutting where speed and decent accuracy matter, this two‑pack is an easy add to the kit.