Black & Decker Corded Drill, 5.5-Amp, 3/8-Inch

Why I reached for this corded drill

I keep a small stable of drills in the shop—cordless for convenience and a couple of corded units for uninterrupted power. I picked up this Black & Decker corded drill for quick household tasks and bench work where I don’t want to worry about a battery. After several weeks of building jigs, hanging shelves, and drilling pilot holes into studs, I have a good sense of where it shines and where it comes up short.

Setup and ergonomics

Out of the box, it’s refreshingly straightforward. There’s a double‑ended screwdriving bit clipped into the on‑board storage, a standard forward/reverse rocker above the trigger, and a 3/8-inch keyless chuck. At 3.4 pounds, it’s light enough to use overhead without fatigue, and the grip is shaped well for average hands. The housing is basic, but the balance is better than I expected—the center of gravity sits close to the grip, which matters when you’re feathering the trigger to start a hole.

One ergonomic note: the nose is longer than many compact cordless drivers. The stated length is about 10 inches, and you feel that when working inside cabinets or between closely spaced studs. A right‑angle attachment helps, but if you regularly work in tight quarters, this isn’t the most compact option.

Power and performance

The 5.5‑amp motor is squarely “household duty.” In softwoods, it drills clean 3/32 to 3/8-inch pilot holes all day long without bogging. Spade bits up to around 1 inch are fine in pine if you let the bit do the work and clear chips. In hardwoods, it will drive small and medium screws and bore pilot holes with appropriate bits; for larger diameter boring in hardwood, patience and sharp bits are essential.

Metal is doable in the lighter range—think 1/8-inch steel or aluminum stock with quality bits, cutting oil, and the right speed. For thicker steel or repeated large‑diameter holes, you’ll want a higher‑amp corded drill or a drill press.

There’s no hammer mechanism, so masonry is limited to light duty with carbide bits at low speed—wall anchors in brick mortar are feasible; drilling into poured concrete is not what this tool is for.

Variable speed and trigger control

The trigger is variable speed, and the range gives you a slow, controlled start and a brisk top end suitable for most drilling tasks. It does not have a speed selector or a clutch; all the modulation is in your index finger. That’s typical at this price, but it affects how you drive screws.

With bare hands, I can control the low end pretty well for starting screws or countersinks. With heavy gloves, it’s trickier; a slight extra squeeze can jump the speed. If you drive a lot of screws, you’ll miss a clutch. My workaround:

• Pre‑drill whenever possible.
• Use high‑quality, properly sized bits to reduce cam‑out.
• Feather the trigger and stop short, then finish by hand or with a clutch‑equipped driver when precision matters.

For drilling, the trigger sensitivity is a plus—easing into sheet metal or ceramic tile (with the correct bit) is easier when you can creep at a very low RPM.

Chuck and bit retention

The 3/8-inch keyless chuck is convenient and fast. It grips hex‑shank driver bits and round‑shank drill bits without fuss. That said, like many light‑duty keyless chucks, it can loosen slightly during heavy starts or when using hole saws. Two habits improve performance:

• Use two hands to tighten—one to hold the rear of the chuck, one to twist the front sleeve firmly until it ratchets.
• Re‑snug the chuck after the first few seconds of spinning a new bit; bits can seat deeper under initial load.

If you often use smooth, small‑diameter round shanks, consider bits with a flat or hex shank for better grip. For large hole saws in plywood or MDF, this drill will turn them, but you’re pushing it near the upper bound. I was able to cut a 2‑inch cable pass‑through in shelving with patience; the motor got warm, and it’s not something I’d repeat all day.

Size, reach, and bit storage

The on‑board bit holder is handy for the included double‑ended bit and saves a pocket trip when swapping between drilling and basic driving. It’s not a full organizer—just a convenient place for one bit—but it’s better than nothing.

Reach is the one thing I kept noticing. The head length makes this drill comfortable for straight‑on work but awkward inside carcasses or when you need to get close to a corner. If compactness is high on your list, a stubby 12V cordless driver will win. If you need sustained power at a budget price, the corded format makes sense.

Corded convenience and the tradeoffs

The biggest everyday benefit is continuous power. No battery to charge, no fade under load, and consistent speed during longer drilling sessions. I especially appreciate this at the drill press station or when installing multiple shelves in a garage; I can keep working without swapping packs.

On the flip side, the cord means you’re managing an extension on a ladder or around a car. Plan your outlet location and cord path, and you’ll be fine. There’s no auxiliary handle, so if a bit binds, your wrist is doing the job. Keep your stance solid and avoid aggressive feed rates with large bits.

Heat, durability, and maintenance

Under normal drilling duty in wood and light metal, the motor stays comfortable. Push it with repeated, large‑diameter boring or aggressive hole saw use, and it heats up. That’s expected for a 5.5‑amp class tool. My rule: if it starts to feel hot or you smell the “hot motor” scent, let it cool for a few minutes. Sharp bits, appropriate speed, and clearing chips will go a long way toward keeping it happy.

Build quality is what I’d call practical. The casing and trigger feel decent, not premium. The chuck sleeve has a bit of play typical of tools in this tier. Runout on my sample was acceptable for general carpentry and shop fixtures; if you’re drilling precision press‑fit holes, a drill press or a higher‑grade hand drill is the right tool.

Maintenance is simple: keep the chuck clean, blow out dust after dusty jobs, and store it with the cord loosely coiled. The two‑year limited warranty provides some peace of mind.

Who it’s best for

• Homeowners who need a reliable, grab‑and‑go drill for shelves, hardware installation, pilot holes, and occasional light metal work.
• DIYers who prefer corded consistency for weekend projects and don’t want to manage batteries.
• Woodworkers who want a second drill at the bench dedicated to pilot holes or countersinks.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Anyone driving hundreds of screws—get a driver with a clutch or an impact driver.
• Frequent users of large hole saws, augers, or mixing paddles—step up to a higher‑amp drill with an auxiliary handle.
• Masonry workers—choose a hammer drill for concrete and block.

Tips for best results

• Mark holes and use a center punch on metal to prevent walking; start at low speed.
• For screws, use quality bits and pre‑drill to avoid stripping since there’s no clutch.
• Tighten the chuck with two hands and re‑snug after an initial spin.
• Let the motor cool if it gets hot; it extends life.
• Keep an extension cord in your kit to avoid awkward reaches.

Recommendation

I recommend this Black & Decker corded drill for homeowners and DIYers who want an affordable, light, and straightforward tool for everyday drilling and occasional screw driving. It delivers steady power, a useful variable trigger, and simple convenience without the battery logistics. Its limitations are clear: no clutch, modest torque compared to heavier corded drills, and a nose length that can make tight spaces tricky. If your workload lives in the realm of pilot holes, brackets, cabinetry hardware, basic repairs, and light metal tasks, it’s a dependable choice. If you routinely tackle larger hole saws, dense hardwoods, or concrete, step up to a more powerful corded model or a hammer drill and keep this one for the lighter duty it handles well.