GLOKUUCA 1 Pcs Door Kick Plates - 6 x 30 Inches Kick Plates for Exterior Interior Doors Protection Decor, 1.5mm (1/16 Inch) Thickness Rectangular Aluminum Door Push Plate

Why I tried this kick plate

My back door takes a beating. Between kids bumping it open with their shoes and the lawn cart grazing it on the way out, the lower panel constantly looked scuffed. I installed the GLOKUUCA kick plate (the 6 x 30-inch, 1/16-inch thick aluminum version in black) to save the paint and tidy up the door’s appearance. After a few weeks of daily use and a couple of good knocks, here’s how it performed.

Design and build quality

The plate is cut from 1.5 mm (roughly 1/16-inch) anodized aluminum with a satin, matte black finish. It’s a smart choice of material for this kind of hardware: thicker than the wafer-thin decorative plates you sometimes see, but not a heavy brass slab either. In hand, it has enough rigidity to stay flat and resist minor impacts without oil-canning, while still being light enough to handle easily during install.

The anodized finish is even, without blotches, and arrived protected by a peel-off film. That film is more than a nicety; it kept the face pristine while I marked and drilled. The edges are clean, and the corners are rounded, which matters for safety and to avoid catching clothing. The mounting holes are pre-punched and properly countersunk so flat-head screws sit flush.

It’s a straightforward, honest piece of hardware: minimal branding, no odd patterns, just a clean, modern rectangle that blends into the door.

Fit and coverage

At 6 x 30 inches, it’s sized for standard 30-inch-wide doors and covers the scuff-prone zone well. On my door, I set it about a quarter inch above the threshold to keep it from scraping, and it left a pleasing margin on the sides. If your door is wider than 30 inches, this plate will still work, but you’ll have more border showing. If your door has a pronounced woodgrain molding or raised panel profile, check that the bottom rail is flat enough to accept a 6-inch-tall plate; most are, but older doors can vary.

The 1.5 mm thickness strikes a good balance. It doesn’t interfere with the door sweep and didn’t rub on the sill. If your door has very tight clearances, it’s still thin enough to be safe.

Installation

Installing took about 15 minutes, mostly because I’m picky about alignment. Here’s the process that worked well:

• Leave the protective film on during install.
• Dry-fit the plate and use painter’s tape along the top edge as a hinge to keep it aligned.
• Mark the center hole first, drill a pilot, then set a single screw to pin the plate before doing the rest.
• Work outward to prevent drift.

The plate includes 10 stainless screws sized to match the pre-punched holes. They sit flush in the countersinks and look tidy. On a wood door, they’re adequate if you drill proper pilot holes. On a metal door, they’re small enough that you’ll want a very fine drill bit to avoid stripping the heads. I opted to use slightly beefier black-oxide screws I already had for a metal-skin door; they grabbed better and still sat flush. My only real gripe is that there are no spares in the bag—ten holes, ten screws—so I’d prefer one or two extras.

Do yourself a favor and look carefully for the small bag of screws in the packaging—it’s easy to miss. Once the plate is on, peel the film, and the finish looks crisp.

Daily use

Functionally, this solved the scuff problem overnight. The anodized surface sheds marks far better than painted steel or wood. A damp cloth takes off shoe rubber, and the black finish hasn’t shown any smearing or chalking. Kicks, nudges from the mower wheels, and the occasional bump from a toolbox haven’t left dents. If you treat your door like a battering ram, you’ll still be able to deform aluminum, but for typical residential abuse, it holds its shape.

Aesthetically, the matte black reads as intentional hardware, not an afterthought. It pairs nicely with dark door levers and hinges. If you prefer a plate that disappears, a lighter finish would blend better on a white door, but the black looks sharp without being loud.

Weather resistance

Mine faces weather, and after a few storms and one week of oppressive humidity, there’s no corrosion, no bubbling, and no discoloration. Anodized aluminum is a good match for exterior use; it’s more resilient than painted sheet in this application. The included screws are stainless, which avoids the common problem of rusty drips. If you live near salt air, I’d still favor upgrading to marine-grade fasteners, but for most climates these will be fine.

What could be better

• Screws: The included screws are small. They fit and will work, especially in wood, but on metal doors they’re easy to strip if you don’t pre-drill correctly. Larger or slightly harder screws, plus a couple of spares, would improve the out-of-box experience.
• Heavy-duty expectations: This is not the thick brass you might find on a commercial entry. For high-traffic storefronts or doors that take luggage carts regularly, you might want a thicker plate or stainless steel. For homes and light commercial use, this is the right weight.

Neither of these is a deal-breaker, but they’re worth knowing before you start.

Practical tips

• Measure the flat portion of your door’s bottom rail; you want the plate to sit fully on a flat surface.
• If you have a door sweep, confirm the plate won’t interfere; 1.5 mm is thin, but check the clearance.
• Use painter’s tape to position, then drill pilots suited to your door material. Go slow to keep the countersinks clean.
• Consider swapping in black stainless screws for a more cohesive look on the black plate, especially if you’re fastening into metal.
• Keep the protective film on until the last screw is in.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners who want to stop repainting the bottom of their doors every season.
• Rental owners looking for a tidy, low-cost way to cut down on move-out touch-ups.
• Light commercial spaces—offices, shops, restaurants—where the door sees shoes, carts, or cleaning equipment but not constant heavy impacts.

If you need a plate to survive warehouse-level abuse, look for a thicker gauge or a different alloy.

Value

Given the material quality, clean finish, and thoughtful touches like countersunk holes and a protective film, the value is strong. There’s nothing gimmicky here—just a durable, good-looking plate that does its job. I’d pay a little extra if it shipped with better screws, but that’s an easy fix from your own hardware bin.

The bottom line

The GLOKUUCA kick plate is a well-executed piece of hardware that protects doors without calling attention to itself. The anodized aluminum looks refined, cleans easily, and shrugs off normal impacts. Installation is genuinely simple, especially if you take a minute to align and pilot the holes properly. My only hesitation is the undersized screw pack, which is workable but not ideal on metal doors.

Recommendation: I recommend this kick plate for anyone with a standard 30-inch door who wants durable protection and a clean, modern look. It’s a smart upgrade that saves your paint and tidies up scuffed entries. If you anticipate heavy industrial abuse, consider a thicker plate; otherwise, this strikes the right balance of durability, appearance, and ease of installation.