GLOKUUCA 2 Pcs Door Kick Plates - 6 x 34 Inches Kick Plates for Exterior Interior Doors Protection Decor, 1.5mm (1/16 Inch) Thickness Rectangular Aluminum Door Push Plate

Why I reached for these kick plates

A scuffed door bottom is one of those slow-burn annoyances in a house: dogs kick at it, kids nudge it with shoes, and carts or bar stools leave their mark. I wanted a clean, durable solution that didn’t scream “commercial hardware,” and these black anodized aluminum kick plates fit the brief. They’re a straightforward upgrade: two plates per pack, each 6 x 34 inches and 1.5 mm thick (roughly 1/16"), with pre-punched holes and stainless screws included. I used one on a high-traffic exterior door and another as a protective accent along the base of a home bar. The result: neater-looking surfaces that shrug off the daily bumps that used to leave me touching up paint.

Build and finish

The first thing that stood out is the thickness. At 1.5 mm, the plates feel substantial in hand—stiff, flat, and not prone to oil-canning when you handle them. That matters once installed; thinner sheet tends to ripple or telegraph imperfections in the door slab. These sit flush and tight.

The anodized black finish is a smart choice for durability outdoors. Anodizing penetrates the surface of the aluminum rather than just coating it, so it resists corrosion and UV fade better than painted finishes. After exposure on a south-facing door and frequent foot contact, the finish has stayed even and hasn’t chalked or grayed. The surface reads as a matte/satin black—modern without being glossy—and it pairs well with painted wood or composite doors. It also made my stained bar base look more intentional, like a designed foot rail rather than a necessary guard.

Edges arrived clean and straight with no burrs or sharp spots, and the hole pattern was consistent across both plates. The aluminum itself is harder than the “soft” trim stock you sometimes get in budget packs. It’s still aluminum—so technically more dentable than stainless steel—but the extra thickness helps it take a knock without leaving a visible crease.

Fit and sizing

At 34 inches wide, the plates are sized to fit a standard 36-inch door (you want roughly a 1-inch margin on either side to clear door stops and keep the plate out of the weatherstrip). The 6-inch height is a nice compromise: enough coverage to catch most heel strikes and bag scuffs, without overpowering the door. On a door that had existing dings down low, the plate covered everything cleanly and looked purposeful.

If you need something taller or narrower, you can trim these plates. I shortened one for a narrower cabinet-style door at the bar using an oscillating multi-tool with a fine-tooth metal blade. Painter’s tape along the cut line and a light deburr with a hand file left a clean edge. If you’re looking to cover a very tall strike zone (say, for a commercial back-of-house door), you’ll want to check the height you need before committing to 6 inches.

Installation experience

The install is about as straightforward as it gets. Each plate comes with pre-punched holes and a small bag of stainless steel screws. Here’s the sequence that worked well for me:

• Leave the protective film on during layout. It prevent scratches while you handle the plate.
• Dry-fit the plate with about a 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch gap above the door bottom. This clears sweeps and avoids dragging over thresholds.
• Use painter’s tape to hold the plate in place and mark a couple of holes. Remove the plate and drill pilot holes appropriate for your door material (I used a small pilot for wood; pre-drilling is important for straight screws and flush heads).
• Reposition the plate and drive the screws, working from the center outward to avoid shifting the alignment.
• Peel the protective film last.

The holes on my plates were neatly punched and sized for the included flat-head screws, which sit flush when everything is aligned and drilled properly. I recommend using a hand screwdriver for the final snugging, particularly in hardwoods, to avoid over-torquing. On one plate, I swapped a couple of the included screws for my preferred brand of stainless hardware after a head started to cam out—nothing dramatic, but it’s a reminder that pilot holes and proper bit fit matter.

Daily use and durability

Functionally, the plates do what they should: they take kicks, bumps, and scrapes so your door doesn’t. On the exterior door, muddy shoes wipe off with a damp cloth and a drop of dish soap. The matte finish hides minor wipe marks better than polished metal. On the bar, stool feet that used to chew up the base now tap harmlessly against the metal. After months of abuse, there are no lifted corners, no finish flaking, and the screws haven’t shown any sign of rust.

One tradeoff with black anodized plates: deep scratches show as lighter silver lines if you hit them with something sharp. That’s true of virtually all anodized aluminum. The thickness helps, but if you need maximum scratch concealment, brushed stainless might be a better aesthetic match. For my applications, the black looks cleaner and more modern.

Where they make the most sense

• Residential exterior and interior doors that get kicked open or closed
• Mudroom, garage, and utility doors that see carts or pet traffic
• Bar fronts and island foot areas that take stool abuse
• Rental units where you want to reduce repainting between tenants

Because the plates are aluminum and anodized, they’re a good pick for humid or coastal environments compared to plain steel. They’re also lighter and easier to work with than stainless if you plan to trim to size.

What could be better

• Hardware consistency: The included stainless screws are convenient, but if you’re working into hardwood or you don’t pre-drill well, it’s easy to strip a head. I keep a box of quality stainless flat-heads on hand and used a couple here.
• Size variety: The 6 x 34 format covers the most common residential door width, but it would be nice to see additional heights and widths to reduce the need for trimming on odd doors or cabinets.
• Hole pattern options: The pre-punched pattern works, but if you’re replacing an old plate with a different hole layout, you’ll be making new pilot holes. That’s not a flaw, just something to plan for.

Tips for a cleaner install

• Measure from both edges and use a small square so the plate sits parallel to the door bottom. A crooked plate is the first thing you’ll notice.
• Pre-drill pilots, especially in hardwood or MDF-faced doors. You’ll get straighter screws and truly flush heads.
• If you need to cut the plate, tape the cut line and score the anodizing with a utility knife to reduce minor edge flake. Deburr lightly with a fine file.
• Leave a small gap at the bottom to clear sweeps and thresholds; avoid letting the plate ride on the sill.
• Remove the protective film after installation to keep the finish pristine.

Value

Getting two plates in a pack is cost-effective. I covered an exterior door and a bar for less than most single stainless plates cost, and the aesthetic is a better match for modern hardware. You’re paying for real material thickness and an anodized finish that holds up indoors and out. Add a handful of higher-end screws if you’re particular, and you still come out ahead.

Final recommendation

I recommend these kick plates for anyone looking to protect doors or bar bases with a durable, low-profile solution that looks intentional rather than industrial. The anodized aluminum holds up to daily use, the 1.5 mm thickness keeps the plates flat and sturdy, and installation is friendly for DIYers. The included screws are serviceable but not exceptional; pre-drilling and, if needed, swapping in your preferred stainless screws is an easy fix. If you need nonstandard sizes, plan on a bit of trimming. For most homes and light commercial spaces, though, this two-pack is a smart, good-looking upgrade that saves your finishes from the everyday wear that otherwise adds up fast.