DeWalt 1/4" x 6" Heavy Duty Spade Bit

Why I reached for this spade bit

On a recent multi-trade remodel, I needed a 1-inch hole maker that could keep up with a mix of stud bays, top plates, and some cranky, knotty joists. I grabbed DeWalt’s 1-inch spade bit—the 6-inch version with the hex shank—and put it through several days of drilling in SPF framing, a few lengths of pressure-treated lumber, and a hardwood rim board. By the end, I had a solid sense of where this bit excels, where it’s just okay, and how it compares to the more aggressive screw-tip spade bits on the market.

Build and design

This bit is straightforward and purpose-built:

• Full-length heat-treated shank: It feels stout in hand and resists the subtle flex you sometimes get when you lean into knots or awkward angles. I didn’t see any visible bending even when I had to lean hard through a wet piece of PT.
• Cutting spurs: The shoulders are defined and do help with cleaner hole edges, especially on the entry side.
• Chip-removal channel: There’s a relief scoop that carries chips out better than a flat paddle, particularly in dry studs.
• 1/4-inch hex shank with ball-groove: It locks securely in quick-change chucks and impact driver collets, which speeds up bit swaps on the ladder.
• Black oxide finish: Not a performance game-changer, but it sheds light surface rust and doesn’t grab resin like unfinished steel.

There’s also a hang hole at the tail. I used it to clip the bit to a carabiner on my pouch and once to pull a tagged wire through a stud bay. It’s a small feature that ends up being surprisingly handy.

Setup and tool pairing

I ran the bit on a compact 18V drill/driver (high-torque, 2-speed) and an impact driver for overhead work. The hex shank is firmly cut; I had zero slippage. If you’re drilling a lot of 1-inch holes, a drill with a side handle is kinder to your wrists. The bit doesn’t self-feed, so you do supply a meaningful amount of push to keep it biting. That’s not a defect; it’s the nature of a non-threaded spade design.

For speed, I found the sweet spot around low gear with a moderate trigger—roughly 500–800 RPM in softwood and slower in hardwoods. That keeps the edges cool and the hole round without chatter.

Cutting performance

In 2x4 and 2x6 SPF, the bit cuts quickly and predictably. The point centers well enough that the bit doesn’t skate on marked studs, and the spurs score the perimeter so the paddle doesn’t tear out fibers right away. Through knots, I had to ease off, pulse the trigger, and let the chip channel do its work. When I tried to brute-force it, chips compacted and heat built up. Backing the bit out halfway through deep cuts made a noticeable difference in speed and finish.

Pressure-treated lumber is tougher for any spade bit because the fibers are wet and stringy. Here, chips can gum up, but the relief pocket helped clear if I backed out periodically. I could keep a steady pace without smoking the edges.

On a laminated rim board, I slowed down and gave it more feed pressure. The bit stayed on line, but you need to respect the material and let the spurs do their scoring before you lean into the cut. I got clean holes with minimal burning.

Hole quality

Entry holes are cleaner than I expect from a traditional spade, thanks to the spurs. Exits will still blow out if you blindly power through. Two simple techniques avoid that:

• Stop just as the point breaks through, then finish from the opposite side.
• Use a backer block.

With either trick, exits are tidy enough for cables, bushings, and PEX sleeving without extra cleanup. Compared with a screw-tip spade or an auger, this bit leaves a less ragged rim in softwood. Compared with a Forstner, it’s not in the same league for cabinetry-grade surfaces, but that’s not its intended use.

Chip evacuation and heat

The chip channel is effective in dry lumber. I noticed faster clearing versus a flat paddle, especially on deep studs where chips otherwise bind. In wet or resinous stock, you’ll still need to feather the trigger and back out to maintain rate of cut. Heat never became a problem unless I ran too fast without clearing.

Durability and nail encounters

The heat-treated shank is the unsung hero. I torqued the bit sideways a few times drilling close to plates; no permanent bend, no wobble developed. The edges held up well over a few dozen holes in framing lumber. After grazing a 16d framing nail hidden in a stud, the corner took a tiny nick but kept cutting. DeWalt’s “max-life corner” claim about improved wear when contacting nails isn’t magic—it won’t turn a spade into a metal bit—but it does seem to resist catastrophic chipping. After the nail kiss, I noticed a faint score on subsequent hole rims; a few light strokes with a diamond card smoothed the burr and the bit went back to work.

Carbon steel and black oxide mean this isn’t a forever-edge tool. Expect to lose some sharpness over heavy days. That said, the wear felt gradual and predictable, not a cliff.

Length, reach, and control

At 6 inches overall, the bit reaches through double plates and typical stud bays. In deeper joists or for angled access, I paired it with a quick-change extension without drama. The hex shank maintains solid engagement in extensions, which is not always true of cheaper bits.

Because it doesn’t self-feed, you’re in control of speed and aggression. I prefer that in tight framing where a screw-tip bit can yank itself through and blow out the backside. The trade-off is you must supply a steady feed. If your drill is underpowered or you try to run full speed, it will feel like hard work. With the right RPM and a firm push, the cut is smooth and predictable.

Compared with other options

• Versus screw-tip spade bits (e.g., threaded point styles): Those require less push and feel faster in clean softwood, but they can pull you into the work and cause exit blowout. This DeWalt requires more user input but offers better control and usually a cleaner rim.
• Versus auger bits: Augers evacuate chips best and are superb through deep stock but are slower to start and bulkier. I carry an auger for long bores and this spade for general stud work.
• Versus Forstner bits: Forstners win on surface finish and flat-bottom holes in finish carpentry. They are slower and not the right tool for rough-in drilling through framing.

Practical tips that helped

• Use low gear and moderate RPM. Let the spurs score before you push hard.
• Back out halfway through deep or wet cuts to clear chips and keep heat down.
• To avoid exit blowout, stop when the tip peeks through and finish from the other side.
• If you nick a nail, dress the edge lightly before continuing.
• Pair with a side-handle drill for wrist comfort on long days.

Pros

• Stout, heat-treated shank resists bending under load
• Clean entry holes for a spade bit, thanks to cutting spurs
• Reliable chip evacuation and good control in varied lumber
• Secure 1/4-inch hex shank works flawlessly with quick-change chucks and extensions
• Handy hang hole for storage and occasional wire pulling

Cons

• Requires meaningful feed pressure compared with screw-tip designs
• Exit tear-out still possible without technique
• Edges will dull with heavy use (typical for carbon steel/black oxide)

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt 1-inch spade bit for framing, electrical, and plumbing rough-in where control and predictable results matter. It doesn’t self-feed, so you’ll work a bit harder than with threaded-tip spades, but you gain cleaner entry holes, fewer surprises at exit, and a shank that stays straight when you lean on it. If you run a drill with decent torque, use sensible RPMs, and clear chips on longer bores, this bit will put in a dependable day’s work and hold its edge respectably. For deep bores or constant nail encounters, swap to an auger or a dedicated nail-eater; for cabinetry finishes, use a Forstner. For everything else in typical framing, this spade bit is a solid, reliable choice.