DeWalt 1-1/2 in. Heavy-Duty Self-Feed Bit

Why I reached for this bit

On rough-in days, a 1-1/2-inch hole is a sweet spot: big enough for cable bundles, small duct runs, and a range of plumbing tasks, but small enough to snake through studs without butchering framing. I put the DeWalt self-feed bit in that size through a few service jobs and shop tests to see how it holds up against the usual suspects—spade bits, hole saws, and traditional augers—and whether its design really translates to faster, cleaner, less stressful drilling.

Build and design

This is a compact, 5.5-inch-long self-feed bit with a 1-1/2-inch cutter and a 7/16-inch hex shank. The shank locks confidently into quick-change chucks and standard keyed/ratcheting chucks; there’s no slippage or rounding with a proper high-torque drill. The cutter head uses a triple-cutter layout with an open-tooth profile, and the self-feeding screw tip is replaceable. Mine arrived with a spare screw tip and a small wrench in the package—a nice touch, because those feed screws take the brunt of abuse if you clip a stray fastener or live in engineered lumber.

The cutting edges are properly hardened. Out of the box, they’re sharp with crisp geometry—no burrs or uneven grind I could detect. The open-tooth design does more than marketing; it gives chips a clear path out of the hole, and the geometry leaves enough meat on the cutters to make hand touch-ups straightforward with a file or small stone.

Setup and the right drill

Self-feed bits demand torque. I ran this primarily in a right-angle, low-RPM drill and a 1/2-inch high-torque drill with a side handle. For a 1-1/2-inch size, think 300–600 RPM and let the screw tip do the work. If your drill has a high/low gearbox, use the low range. If it doesn’t have a side handle, borrow a drill that does—your wrists will thank you.

The 7/16-inch hex shank is exactly what you want for quick plunges between studs and overhead work. Swapping between sizes or switching to a ship auger for thinner runs is fast and secure.

In the wood: speed, control, and hole quality

Speed is this bit’s headline. In SPF studs and dry plywood, the feed screw grabs almost immediately, pulls the bit into the cut, and the triple cutters shave out a clean, continuous chip. Most holes were over before I could think about easing off the trigger. In hardwoods like oak and maple, the bit remained quick, but I appreciated the extra control the self-feed provides—no pushing necessary, just steering and a firm hold on the drill.

In engineered lumber (LVL and a few laminated rim boards), the bit stayed on line, but I did have to pause midway through deeper passes to clear chips. That’s typical for resin-heavy stock and not a knock against this design; the open-tooth profile helps, but physics is physics. Back the bit out, flick out the packed chips, and keep going.

Entry holes are impressively clean. The cutters score the perimeter well, and I saw minimal splintering. As with most aggressive boring, exits can blow out if you punch straight through at full speed. If I needed a tidy exit on visible work, I either backed the bit out just as the screw tip broke through and finished from the opposite side, or I clamped on a backer. Both methods yielded clean results.

Feed screw behavior

The self-feeding screw is aggressive—in a good way. In softwoods, it’ll try to accelerate the moment it bites. If you’re new to self-feed bits, start with a slower trigger pull and let the drill settle into the cut. On a few holes in wet, pressure-treated stock, the screw tip’s bite softened slightly, which actually smoothed things out. If the screw ever feels dull or starts skating before it grabs, swapping it takes under a minute with the included wrench.

One small tip: if you’re drilling at an angle or on a curved surface (think round duct or pipe straps in the way), start with a tiny “bite”—just enough to seat the screw—and then square up. That prevents the bit from walking.

Chip ejection and clearing

The open-tooth design pushes chips forward nicely. In clear, dry studs, chips spiral out and fall away, and I rarely had to feather the trigger. In denser stock or deep material, I found the best rhythm was to feed steadily, pause briefly when I felt resistance rise, then resume. Heat buildup wasn’t a problem in my runs, but any self-feed bit will heat up if you force it. Let the screw pace the cut; your drill motor will sound happier, and the edges will stay sharp longer.

Sharpening, maintenance, and longevity

The ability to resharpen these cutters extends the tool’s useful life significantly. After a couple dozen holes through mixed stock and a handful of passes in LVL, I saw only a slight loss in edge. A quick touch-up with a fine file restored the bite. The geometry is simple enough: keep the existing angles, focus on the flat faces, and avoid lowering the cutting edge relative to the rakers.

Replacing the feed screw is even simpler. If you hit a hidden nail or screw (it happens), you’re more likely to damage the tip than the cutters. Swap the tip, and you’re back in business. I appreciate that this bit is designed for field maintenance; you don’t need a bench grinder or specialty jigs to keep it productive.

Where it shines

• Fast rough-ins in studs and joists, especially for electricians and low-voltage installers pulling bundles.
• Clean, controlled boring in hardwood stair stringers and blocking where a hole saw would bog down.
• Overhead work where a compact length and quick-change shank reduce fatigue and fuss.

It’s especially effective when paired with a right-angle drill for tight bays. The bit’s short overall length helps you clear obstructions, and the hex shank eliminates slippage when you inevitably get into an awkward stance.

Limitations and cautions

• Torque is real. If your drill lacks a side handle or a low gear, you’ll fight the bit more than you should.
• Exit blowout can happen. Use a backer or finish from the opposite side if appearance matters.
• Not nail-friendly. Hidden fasteners will chew the feed screw and can nick the cutters. A quick scan with a stud finder that detects metal is worth it on remodels.
• Depth and reach are limited by the 5.5-inch length. For thicker assemblies or deep blocking, plan on an extension (not included).
• Strictly for wood. Don’t use it on PVC or metal; if you need multi-material holes, a hole saw kit is more appropriate.

Comparisons

Versus a spade bit, this self-feed cuts dramatically faster, with less wandering and a cleaner perimeter. Compared to a hole saw, it’s lighter on the drill motor and ejects chips instead of collecting dust in a cup—but a hole saw can leave a cleaner exit with the right technique. Relative to a ship auger, the self-feed’s pace is similar in clear stock, but the shorter length and replaceable screw give it an edge in maintenance and maneuverability.

The right workflow

To get the most from this bit:
- Use a low-RPM, high-torque drill with a side handle.
- Let the screw set the pace; don’t lean on the tool.
- Clear chips on long or dense cuts; don’t force through resistance.
- Back the bit out as the tip breaks through and finish from the opposite side for clean exits.
- Touch up the cutters periodically and keep a spare feed screw on hand.

Verdict and recommendation

After living with this 1-1/2-inch self-feed bit across a range of framing and retrofit tasks, I’d recommend it without hesitation to anyone doing regular rough-ins in wood. It bores fast, tracks straight, and stays serviceable thanks to its resharpenable cutters and replaceable feed screw. The 7/16-inch hex shank anchors securely in quick-change chucks, and the compact length makes it practical in tight bays and overhead.

It’s not a universal hole-maker. If your work demands clean, finished holes on both faces, a hole saw might be the better primary tool, and you’ll want to avoid dirty, nail-ridden remodel stock. But for productivity in framing, blocking, and utility runs—where speed, control, and field maintainability matter—this bit hits the mark. I recommend it for electricians, plumbers, HVAC techs, and remodelers who have the right drill to drive it and value a bit they can sharpen and keep in service rather than toss when it dulls.