DeWalt 12in 6 TPI demolition reciprocating saw blade (5-pack)

Why these blades earned a spot in my demo kit

I go through a lot of recip blades in renovations, and I’m picky about what stays in my bag. After a few bathroom tear-outs, some framing adjustments, and a handful of plumbing fixes, these DeWalt 12-inch, 6 TPI demolition blades have proven they’re more than just another consumable. They’re stiff, fast in the right materials, and consistent enough that I don’t think twice about grabbing one for harsh jobs.

Design that favors control and durability

The first thing you notice is the blade’s height and thickness. The 1-inch-tall profile adds welcome stiffness, and the extra thickness keeps it tracking straight rather than corkscrewing when it hits a hidden nail. On flush cuts along subfloor or when I’m reaching into a stud bay to cut a cripple, that rigidity matters—less chatter, less wandering, and fewer “C”-shaped cuts when you’d prefer a straight line.

These are bi-metal blades, which is the right call for demolition: a flexible back to resist snapping, with a hardened tooth line that doesn’t dull immediately on nails and screws. At 6 TPI, the tooth spacing is aggressive—built for speed and chip evacuation in wood and composites, and capable on ferrous metals when you adjust technique. DeWalt touts a tooth form that clears chips, and while I don’t have a lab to measure, the gullets do stay surprisingly clear in wet framing and old hardwood, which helps maintain speed.

The 12-inch length is useful. It lets me reach through double-stud assemblies, make deep plunge cuts, and straddle wider pipes without burying the shoe awkwardly. The trade-off with long blades is always control and vibration, but the extra stiffness here mitigates that more than most.

You get five blades per pack. There’s no limited warranty, which is standard for consumables, but it’s worth noting for buyers who expect coverage.

Cutting performance in wood, nails, and plate stock

• Framing and subfloor: The 6 TPI tooth pattern chews through studs fast. On plunge cuts into pine and fir, the blade bites cleanly without skittering. Tear-out is expected at this pitch, so I don’t use them where a clean face matters, but for demolition, they’re ideal.

• Embedded fasteners: They handle mixed cuts—old framing peppered with nails and screws—without tooth loss right away. I can usually complete multiple stud cuts with embedded nails before swapping.

• Metal: On EMT, threaded rod, and angle iron up to about 1/4 inch, slow your stroke rate, use cutting fluid if you have it, and let the blade do the work. The edge life is respectable for bi-metal. For thick cast iron, these do cut, but it’s not a sprint. I’ve sectioned cast iron soil pipe by scoring around the circumference and finishing the cut with steady, moderate pressure. Expect heat buildup and give the blade breaks to cool. Compared to carbide-tipped demo blades, these are slower and won’t last as long in heavy metal-only work, but they’re perfectly serviceable for the mixed-material cuts typical in remodels.

• Roof deck and sheathing: The tooth form clears chips well and doesn’t bog down in sticky pitch or wet plywood. The tall profile helps keep long, straight rips when I’m opening access.

Control and tracking

The standout trait is how straight these blades track relative to many 12-inch options. The tall, thick body resists flex, which reduces “hinge” cuts where the blade bends around a nail and comes out off-line. That’s helpful when I’m trying to surgically remove a stud next to a run of Romex or copper without collateral damage. On flush cuts, the stiffness also helps me keep the shoe planted and the blade flat to the surface instead of bouncing.

One practical note: the stiffness means there’s a bit more feedback into the saw when teeth catch a fastener at high speed. Use variable speed and back off a touch as you feel the bite into metal; it pays off in tooth life and keeps the cut controllable.

Durability and lifespan

Across a small bathroom demo (studs, subfloor patches, galvanized nails, a couple of EMT runs, and one cast iron section), I used two blades. The first handled most of the wood and nail cuts before it started to dull; I saved the second for the pipe and finish cuts. I didn’t experience bending or kinking, even when the blade was buried and slightly side-loaded—something that kills many long blades. Edge wear is typical for bi-metal: the teeth round over rather than chip out, and you feel the cut slow before it becomes a burn fest. That’s predictable, which I appreciate.

If your week is nothing but cast iron, masonry nails, or stainless fasteners, you’ll want carbide-tipped demo blades for longevity. But for mixed demolition, these strike a useful balance of cost and service life.

Practical tips for best results

• Use the right speed. Go fast in wood, slow down significantly when you hit metal. If your saw has orbital action, keep it on for wood and turn it off for metal.
• Leverage the length. Move the shoe in and out during long cuts so you use fresh sections of teeth and avoid burning one small part of the blade.
• Let chips clear. Especially in wet lumber, back the blade out periodically to avoid heat and maintain speed.
• Don’t force cast iron. Score, cool, lube if you can, and give the blade breaks. Pushing hard only overheats the tooth line and shortens life.

Where they shine—and where they don’t

Strengths:
- Excellent stiffness for a 12-inch blade; tracks straight and resists kinking.
- Fast in framing and demolition lumber, even with embedded nails.
- Capable on common jobsite metals with proper technique.
- Good chip evacuation in wet or resinous material.
- Five-pack keeps you covered for a full demo cycle.

Limitations:
- 6 TPI is not a finish-cut solution; expect rough edges in wood.
- Bi-metal can’t match carbide-tipped blades for long, heavy metal-only runs.
- The long length, while versatile, is overkill in very tight spaces; you’ll want 6–9 inch blades available as well.
- No limited warranty; standard for blades, but worth noting.

Fit and finish

The blades are marked clearly, and the shanks seat snug in multiple saws I tried (corded and cordless). They’re made in the USA with global materials. Coating wear is predictable; after early use the finish scuffs but doesn’t seem to affect performance. No odd burrs or mis-set teeth out of the pack.

Value and alternatives

As a bi-metal demolition option, these hit a sensible middle ground. They cost more than bargain long blades but earn their keep with straighter cuts and longer life. If your work is primarily wood with occasional nails, you could step to a finer 8–10 TPI blade for a slightly cleaner cut. If your day is metal-forward (cast iron stacks, thick steel), consider carbide-tipped demo blades for speed and longevity—accepting the higher price per blade.

For general remodeling and tear-outs, however, I’d rather have these in the saw than a thinner, flimsier long blade. The reduced wandering alone saves time and aggravation.

Recommendation

I recommend these DeWalt demolition blades for anyone doing mixed-material demolition where control and durability matter. The tall, thick profile keeps long cuts straight, the 6 TPI tooth form clears chips and stays quick in wood, and the bi-metal construction holds up respectably against nails and common metals. They’re not the fastest in thick cast iron, and they won’t replace carbide for metal-heavy jobs, but as a go-to demolition blade for remodelers, plumbers, and serious DIYers, they strike a smart balance of speed, stiffness, and value.