DeWalt Self Feed Bit Replacement Parts

A field-fix for tired self‑feed bits

On a retrofit job last month, my self‑feed bit chewed its way through a dozen studs and then started burning instead of biting. Swapping to a fresh bit would’ve kept me moving, but I reached for DeWalt’s replacement kit instead. It’s a five-piece set of cutters and associated hardware that drops onto DeWalt’s self‑feed bodies, letting you refresh the cutting edge without tossing the whole assembly. After several weeks of service work and shop testing, here’s how the kit stacked up.

What’s in the box and how it’s built

The kit includes five replacement pieces designed for DeWalt’s DW1630–DW1639 self‑feed bodies. The cutting elements have an aggressive spur that helps the bit start cleanly and pull itself into the cut. The tooth form is intentionally open, which leaves a lot of steel behind the edge so you can resharpen multiple times. The shank interface uses DeWalt’s 7/16-inch ball‑groove, so it snaps into quick‑change chucks on most right‑angle and standard drills—a small but real time saver on rough‑in days.

Fit and finish are what I expect from DeWalt’s industrial line: clean grinds, consistent geometry between pieces, and well-machined flats for the set screws to bear on. The cutters index positively on the body, so aligning the spur and the lead screw is straightforward.

Setup, compatibility, and a couple of must-do steps

Installation is simple: back out the body’s set screws, seat the new cutter, snug things up, and confirm the lead screw is sharp and straight. Two tips from my experience that are worth baking into your routine:

• Clean the set‑screw threads on both the body and screws. A quick pass with brake cleaner or mineral spirits keeps pitch and dust from compromising clamping force.
• Use a dab of blue threadlocker on the set screws. It’s cheap insurance against vibration working a cutter loose mid‑hole.

If you’re running DeWalt’s DW1630–DW1639 bodies, the fit is plug‑and‑play. On a few older bodies, I had to chase one set‑screw hole with a tap to clear old debris, but otherwise the swap is painless.

Cutting performance in wood

In SPF studs and joists, the refreshed cutter starts confidently. The aggressive spur finds purchase quickly, and the lead screw pulls the bit into the work with less skating than dull, re-sharpened cutters tend to show. On a right‑angle drill with a 7/16 quick‑change, I was boring clean, repeatable holes for 1/2- and 3/4-inch EMT in seconds. Cross‑grain tear‑out on entry was minimal; on exit, it’s typical self‑feed behavior—acceptable in framing but not cabinet‑grade.

Where this kit shows its character is in denser stock. In LVL and southern yellow pine, it still cuts, but you need to manage feed and speed. I had the best results at low RPM with a firm but not aggressive feed, letting the bit do the work. In very resinous stock, the lead screw threads can load up; backing out halfway through the hole to clear chips keeps things moving and prevents heat build‑up.

If you’re chasing speed through knotty studs all day, a self‑feed system rises or falls on chip evacuation. The open‑tooth profile here helps, and when the edges are fresh, pull‑through is strong. Once dulling starts, chip flow stalls faster, and that’s your cue to resharpen or swap in another cutter from the kit.

About that “metal and tile” line

The packaging calls out metalworking and tile cutting as applications. From my time with the kit, I would treat those as edge cases rather than primary use. Self‑feed geometry shines in wood. Yes, you can nibble cement board or soft sheet materials with care, but for steel or ceramic tile, a hole saw, step bit, or carbide/diamond system is the right tool. I didn’t see any advantage to forcing a self‑feed setup into those tasks, and you’re more likely to shorten tool life doing so.

Durability and resharpening

One of the better features here is the open‑tooth design that invites resharpening. With a fine mill file and a light touch, I got three full sharpenings per cutter before the profile retreated enough that performance started to slip. The spur is where you notice the decline first—once it loses height relative to the main cutters, starts are less decisive. Take just a couple of strokes per tooth, maintain the existing rake, and avoid touching the outside diameter if you care about hole size.

In terms of edge holding, the cutters stand up well in SPF and fir. LVL and engineered lumber will blunt them faster, as expected. I tracked my workflow on a small commercial TI: roughly 80 bores through softwood framing plus a handful through LVL before I reached for the file. That’s respectable, and the ability to swap or sharpen in minutes kept the drill in hand, not on the bench.

The realities of chip control and clogging

Every self‑feed system wrestles with chips. Two points stood out:

• Lead screw clogging: In pitchy lumber, the screw threads can pack up. A quick wipe with a rag, a touch of paraffin or beeswax, and backing out mid‑hole kept the screw biting. Running too fast worsens this; low‑speed/high‑torque is your friend.
• Clearing the gullets: The open tooth form helps clear chips, but you still need to feather the trigger. Short pulses to evacuate, then back into the cut, will outpace full‑trigger, full‑force drilling in anything but the driest studs.

Following that rhythm, the bit kit kept up with my day without cooked edges or stuck holes.

Retention and set screw behavior

I had one early instance where a cutter worked loose after three holes. Cleaning the threads and adding blue threadlocker resolved it. Since then, I give the set screws a “snug plus a quarter turn” with a short‑arm Allen key and a quick check at lunch. No issues afterward. It’s easy to overlook, but vibration and intermittent reversing can walk even a tight screw out over a long day.

Quick‑change convenience

The 7/16-inch ball‑groove shank matters more than you think. Swapping from a self‑feed body to a ship auger or impact socket happens dozens of times on a rough‑in. Not having to wind a keyed chuck open and closed saves minutes that add up. The shank locked securely in both a right‑angle drill and a Super‑Hawg‑style tool without any play.

Where it fits in the market

Compared to other pro‑grade self‑feed systems, this DeWalt kit lands in the “practical and serviceable” camp. It doesn’t chase exotic coatings or complex tooth patterns; it leans on solid geometry you can refresh with a file. In clean softwood, speed is right there with the category. In tough stock, I’ve seen competitors hang on a bit longer before needing attention, but the difference isn’t dramatic, and the ability to swap cutters on the spot narrows that gap.

Tips to get the most from it

• Run low RPM, high torque. Let the lead screw feed; don’t lean your body weight into the drill.
• Wax the lead screw in resinous lumber and clear chips mid‑hole.
• Resharpen lightly and often rather than grinding away a lot at once.
• Add blue threadlocker to set screws and check them once per shift.
• Keep a small file and a pick in the pouch; five minutes of maintenance beats thirty minutes fighting a dull edge.

Bottom line

This DeWalt replacement kit does what I need a self‑feed refresh to do: install easily, start holes cleanly, cut quickly in framing lumber, and accept a few rounds of resharpening before I toss the cutter. The aggressive spur and open‑tooth profile are well‑matched to wood boring, the 7/16-inch ball‑groove shank keeps changeovers quick, and compatibility with the DW1630–DW1639 bodies means my existing gear stays in service.

It’s not a magic bullet. In dense engineered stock you’ll work a bit slower, and like all self‑feed setups, chip management matters. I also consider the “metal and tile” claim more marketing than mission—there are better tools for those materials. But as a field-fix for dull self‑feed bits, it’s a solid, time‑saving option.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for anyone already running DeWalt’s self‑feed bodies who wants to extend their investment with reliable, serviceable cutters. It’s particularly well‑suited to electricians, plumbers, and framers boring through softwood framing all day. If your work leans heavily on engineered lumber or you need a solution for metal or tile, look elsewhere or keep a specialized setup alongside it.