DeWalt 3/16" Hex Shank Drill Bit

First impressions

I reached for this 3/16-in hex-shank bit on a small bracket build where I needed a clean, repeatable hole size in both pine and mild steel. Out of the package, the bit looked straightforward: black oxide finish, split-point tip, and a hex shank that promised quick changes between drilling and driving. It’s a single piece, 4-1/4 inches long with 1-3/4 inches of working length—short enough to feel rigid in the drill, but with enough reach for typical sheet metal and furniture tasks. Nothing flashy, just a purposeful general-purpose bit.

Build and design

The split-point tip is the headline feature here, and it makes sense for a general-use bit. A true split point reduces walking on flat stock and cuts down on the need to center punch on softer materials. The black oxide finish isn’t a coating that adds hardness—like TiN might—but it does help with corrosion resistance and reduces friction a touch. Combined with a sensible grind, it’s a solid everyday spec.

The hex shank is the convenience play. Whether you’re swapping between a pilot hole and a driver bit or bouncing between sizes, the shank helps you move quickly without fiddling with a keyed or keyless chuck. It also minimizes spinning in the chuck under load.

Quick-change convenience

On jobs where I’m cycling between drilling, countersinking, and driving, a hex shank saves minutes that add up. The bit locks into my quick-change holders securely and ejects cleanly. If your setup relies on hex-based accessories, this is exactly the form factor you want. If you’re working mostly out of a keyed chuck, you’ll still benefit from the anti-spin nature of the hex flats.

One practical note: because the working length is 1-3/4 inches, you won’t reach deep into stacked material. That limited engagement length, however, does enhance rigidity—less flex, less chatter, better hole quality.

Performance in wood

In pine and poplar, the split point started cleanly without skating. It doesn’t act like a brad-point bit—if you’re after flawless entry holes on visible faces, a backer board or a brad-point is still your friend—but for general joinery and shop fixtures, this bit produced round, true holes with minimal fuzzing on exit. I ran it at typical wood-drilling speeds with a cordless drill and found chip ejection to be consistent. Clearing chips every few seconds on deeper holes kept heat down and maintained pace.

I also tried it through laminated plywood. The tip stayed on target, with only minor surface scuffing at the veneer when I rushed the feed. Using a sacrificial backer eliminated tear-out on the exit side.

Performance in metal

The real test for a 3/16-in bit in my shop is thin-walled steel tubing and angle stock. On 1/8-in mild steel plate, the split point negated any walking, and I skipped the center punch on several holes without drama. Running at a lower speed with cutting fluid, the bit pulled consistent chips and never squealed. The hole edges were clean, and the bit did not bind when I kept the feed steady.

In aluminum, it was almost too easy—keep the speed modest and avoid piling chips at the flutes. The bit stayed accurate and didn’t grab on exit. For stainless or hardened steel, I wouldn’t reach for a black oxide bit at all; it’s not meant for that, and you’ll shorten its life quickly. But for mild steel, sheet steel, and aluminum, it’s exactly the right tier.

Durability and wear

After a handful of shop sessions—roughly two dozen holes in mild steel and more than that in wood—the cutting edges still feel keen. The black oxide finish has worn a bit at the flutes (as expected), but I’m not seeing blueing or dulling that would indicate overheating. For a single general-purpose bit, the life is good, assuming you respect speed and feed and use lubrication in metal.

Remember, black oxide is about corrosion resistance and a bit of lubricity, not raw edge hardness. If you’re drilling steel all day, step up to cobalt; for occasional metal, this bit holds its own.

Accuracy and hole quality

The bit runs true in the chuck—no noticeable wobble—and produces round holes consistently. The split point aids centering, especially when you’re drilling on a curved edge or when a punch mark is shallow. In wood, hole edges are tidy; in metal, the exits are crisp, with light deburring needed on plate. If I needed glass-smooth holes in hardwood face surfaces, I’d switch to a brad-point; for general work, this is versatile and predictable.

Limitations and caveats

• Depth: With a working length of 1-3/4 inches, there’s a practical limit to how deep you can go. For thicker sandwiches or layered assemblies, plan accordingly.
• Material scope: It’s not the right pick for stainless or hardened stock. Use cobalt or carbide for those.
• Impact use: The hex shank will tempt you to throw it in an impact driver. I keep mine in a drill/driver instead. Impacts can chatter and chip cutting edges, especially on general-purpose bits.
• Entry/exit cleanliness in wood: Split points start accurately but don’t prevent tear-out like a brad-point. Use a backer when appearance matters.

Where it fits in a kit

If you already own a comprehensive bit set, this makes sense as a frequently used size in a more convenient shank. If you’re building up a modular hex-based drilling/driving system, it slots right in—less chucking and unchucking means better flow. I like having singles of common sizes with hex shanks for jobsite tasks where speed matters more than absolute perfection.

If you’re drilling mostly metal every day, you’ll want a cobalt 3/16-in as your workhorse and keep this one for wood and lighter steel duties. If you’re strictly woodworking and demand pristine holes, a 3/16-in brad-point will serve you better. This bit is about doing a lot of things well rather than one thing perfectly.

Practical tips

• For mild steel: run slow, apply cutting oil, and let the bit cut—don’t force it.
• For wood: use a backer board to reduce exit tear-out, especially on plywood.
• Clear chips: pause periodically on deeper holes to clear flutes and cool the tip.
• Storage: keep it dry; black oxide resists rust but isn’t immune.
• Pilot strategy: the split point let me skip pilot holes on thinner material, but for thicker stock, a small pilot keeps the cut straighter and reduces load.

Value and warranty

Since it’s sold individually, you’re paying for a single, commonly used size with a convenience shank. That fits how I work: I burn through 3/16-in more than most, so carrying a couple spares makes sense. The 30-day money-back guarantee is a minor safety net if yours arrives out of spec, though this one tracked straight out of the package.

Verdict and recommendation

I like this bit for what it is: a reliable, quick-change 3/16-in option that starts accurately, cuts cleanly in wood and mild steel, and holds an edge respectably when used with proper technique. The hex shank speeds up workflows that bounce between drilling and driving, and the short working length makes it feel stable and predictable. It’s not a specialist’s tool for stainless or for pristine furniture-grade holes, but as a day-to-day generalist, it’s easy to keep at the front of the pouch.

I recommend it to anyone who values quick-change convenience and needs a dependable 3/16-in size for mixed-material tasks. If your work lives in mild steel, aluminum, and construction lumber, this bit earns its keep. If you’re drilling stainless regularly or chasing flawless tear-out-free holes in hardwood, pair it with material-specific bits—but keep this one on hand for everything else.