DeWalt 10 in. (250 mm) Double Edge Pull Saw

Why this pull saw earned a spot in my bag

A quiet, precise hand saw solves problems that power tools complicate. I picked up the DeWalt pull saw for punch-list work—flush-trimming shims, lopping off dowels, and making clean crosscuts in trim where a miter saw would be overkill or too noisy. After a few weeks of use, it’s proven to be a handy little problem-solver with a couple of caveats worth knowing before you buy.

Design and build

This is a compact, double-edge pull saw with a 10-inch blade. One edge is coarse (7 TPI) and one is fine (14 TPI), and the blade is thin and flexible for flush work. The handle is a bi-material grip with enough contour to index your hand and keep things comfortable. At about three-quarters of a pound and roughly 15 inches overall, it slides into a tool bag or hangs on a peg without fuss.

Double-edge pull saws reward a relaxed technique. The blade is designed to cut on the pull stroke, which keeps it in tension and lets a thin plate stay straight. With this one, I found the plate to be flexible enough to lie flat against a surface, yet stiff enough to track straight if I let the teeth do the work. If you push hard or twist mid-stroke, any thin pull saw will complain; this one is no different.

Cutting performance

• Coarse edge (7 TPI): This side is the workhorse. On 2x SPF, I can start a kerf with a few light pulls and then use long strokes to finish the cut quickly. It’s not a rip saw per se, but the tooth size and spacing let it clear chips well, so it’s practical for rough length cuts, trimming a stud proud of a plate, or hacking through a shim bundle. It’s also the side I reach for in drywall; it’s aggressive and doesn’t clog easily. Just be aware that gypsum is abrasive and will shorten the life of any fine-tooth saw.

• Fine edge (14 TPI): On poplar and pine trim, it leaves a crisp crosscut surface that’s glue-ready with minimal clean-up. It’s also the edge I prefer for cutting dowels and making delicate cuts near a finished surface. The trade-off is speed—you’re not racing anyone with this side—but the cut quality is trustworthy.

On hardwoods like oak, the fine edge still delivers, but the stroke length matters. Short, choppy strokes tend to chatter; full, even pulls keep the plate in tension and the kerf straight. I also found that the first two or three “feather” pulls are crucial for starting a clean line without skating.

Flush cutting and flexibility

The flexible blade is the reason to own this saw. Trimming door shims flush to the jamb, cutting dowels proud of a surface, or sneaking off a sliver of quarter round—these are the tasks where it shines. I can lay the plate flat on the work, flex the handle up for clearance, and pull with light pressure. The plate has enough give to ride the surface, but it returns to flat without permanently kinking if I keep the pull straight.

A practical note: because this is a double-edge saw with set on both sides, the teeth can mark a finished surface during flush cuts. Blue tape or a thin shim of card stock under the blade keeps finishes pristine. On raw stock, I didn’t bother, but on painted trim and hardwood flooring, I always added protection.

Ergonomics

The handle is comfortable and grippy, and the balance feels neutral for a small saw. I never developed hot spots or fatigue, even after extended trimming sessions. The handle shape also gives good directional feedback—you know when you’re starting to twist the plate, which is helpful with such a flexible blade.

The included packaging functions as a decent temporary sheath. Until you make or buy a proper blade guard, keep that packaging; it protects both the teeth and anything else in the bag from those teeth.

Durability and maintenance

This is where expectations matter. The coarse edge held up well through framing lumber and drywall, with the usual gradual loss of bite you’d expect. The fine edge is more fragile. The thin, tight teeth leave a clean surface, but they don’t love knots or heavy-handed use. I snapped a couple of tips early on when I hurried a crosscut through a knot in a 2x4. Since then, I’ve treated the fine side as a finish tool—no knots, no nails, light pressure—and it’s been fine.

Like most modern pull saws in this category, it’s not intended to be resharpened. Keep it clean and dry, wipe the blade with a bit of paste wax or light oil to reduce friction and resist rust, and avoid contact with metal and masonry. I also tried to track down a factory replacement blade specifically for this model and came up empty, so I’m treating the saw as a consumable: use it hard, retire it when it’s dull or damaged. If replaceable blades are important to you, that’s something to weigh.

The 1-year limited warranty is there for defects, but wear and tear on teeth won’t count as a defect. Technique is your biggest life extender here: long, relaxed pull strokes and no lateral torque.

Accuracy and control

With a light touch, this saw tracks accurately. I can split a pencil line in poplar consistently, and it’s easy to correct minor wander mid-cut by adjusting the pull angle. For small miters on shoe molding or quarter round, the fine edge leaves a tidy surface that sands quickly. If you’re cutting miters without a guide, take the time to start a shallow, accurate kerf before you commit to full-depth strokes. The blade’s flexibility is an asset, but it also makes it easy to introduce a curve if you rush.

Where it fits in a kit

• Trim and finish carpentry: Excellent for cutting shoe, quarter round, returns, and small moldings. Great for dowel trimming and mortise pins.
• Punch-list carpentry: Quiet fixes in occupied spaces where a circular saw is too loud or dusty.
• Drywall and rough carpentry: The coarse edge will get you through gypsum and softwood quickly, but expect accelerated wear if drywall is a steady diet.
• Shop use: Handy for breaking down small stock, flush-trimming plugs, and quick crosscuts at the bench.

It is not a demolition tool, nor is it a substitute for a dedicated rip saw on heavy stock. It’s a precise, flexible complement to larger tools.

Quirks and limitations

• The fine edge is prone to damage if you push hard, twist, or cross knots. Reserve it for clean stock.
• The double-edge design means you need to protect finished surfaces during flush cuts.
• I couldn’t locate a manufacturer replacement blade, so treat it as a single-piece tool rather than a long-term handle system.
• Like all thin pull saws, it dislikes being pushed; doing so will buckle the blade.

None of these are dealbreakers if you understand the tool’s lane and drive it accordingly.

Tips for best results

• Start with two or three feather-light pulls to establish the kerf before committing to full strokes.
• Let the saw cut on the pull. On the return, float the blade back with minimal contact.
• Use the coarse edge for knots, construction lumber, and drywall. Save the fine edge for clean finish work.
• Tape or shim under the blade for flush cuts on finished surfaces.
• Keep the blade clean and lightly waxed; it reduces friction and helps it track straight.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt pull saw for anyone who needs a compact, flexible, double-edge saw for trim work, flush cuts, and quiet punch-list tasks. It’s comfortable, easy to control, and the coarse edge in particular holds up well for everyday carpentry. The fine edge delivers clean results on finish materials, but it demands a light hand and good technique; if you routinely cut across knots or through abrasive materials, expect faster wear or tooth damage. Because I couldn’t source a replacement blade for this model, I’d treat it as a consumable tool rather than a long-term handle system. For pros who live with a pull saw in hand every day, a higher-end ryoba with replaceable blades may make more economic sense. For DIYers and working carpenters who want a reliable, flexible saw for precise cuts and flush trimming, this one earns its keep.