Skil The UGLY 8 In. 6/12 TPI All-Purpose Reciprocating Saw Blade

The UGLY 8 In. 6/12 TPI All-Purpose Reciprocating Saw Blade

Features

  • Patented progressive tooth geometry for consistent cutting across different materials
  • Bi-metal construction (hard cutting edge with flexible spine) for strength and durability
  • Titanium-coated teeth to resist wear and extend blade life
  • Plunge-style body optimized for demolition and cutting into surfaces
  • Variable 6/12 TPI tooth pattern to handle both aggressive and finer cuts
  • 8-inch length suitable for a range of tasks while allowing access in tighter spaces
  • Universal tang fitment compatible with most reciprocating saws

Specifications

Blade Length 8 in.
Application All-purpose / demolition
Tpi (Teeth Per Inch) 6-12 (variable)
Blade Material Bi-metal
Coating Titanium-coated teeth
Blades Per Pack 1
Fitment Universal tang (fits most reciprocating saws)
Plunge Ground Teeth Yes

An 8-inch reciprocating saw blade intended for general-purpose and demolition cutting. It uses a progressive tooth geometry and a plunge-style body to enter and cut a variety of materials. The blade is constructed from bi-metal with a titanium-coated cutting edge for increased wear resistance and is designed to fit most reciprocating saws using a universal tang.

Model Number: 94101

Skil The UGLY 8 In. 6/12 TPI All-Purpose Reciprocating Saw Blade Review

4.0 out of 5

A do-it-all demo blade that actually earns the “all-purpose” label

On a recent gut—think subfloor, siding, and a forest of old fasteners—I put Skil’s 8-inch all-purpose reciprocating saw blade through the kind of mixed-material chaos that usually exposes a blade’s limits fast. This is the blade with the variable 6/12 TPI pattern and plunge-friendly nose. After several days of work, it didn’t feel like a compromise piece meant to “kind of” handle everything; it behaved like a demolition-first blade that can still keep its composure in materials that usually demand a finer tooth.

Design and build

This Skil blade uses a bi-metal construction with a titanium-coated cutting edge. In the field, that translates to a hardwearing tooth line with a spine that resists snapping while still bending enough to survive awkward cuts. The variable tooth pattern ramps from finer to coarser along the edge, and the nose is shaped to make plunge starts cleaner and more predictable. At 8 inches, it’s long enough for most residential framing and fixture cuts, short enough to keep control in tight cavities, and universally compatible via a standard tang.

None of this is novel on paper, but the combination feels well executed. The blade doesn’t feel overly thick or flimsy—there’s enough stiffness to track straight without chattering, yet it will flex during flush cuts without kinking.

Cutting performance

Wood and framing with embedded metal

In pressure-treated 2x lumber riddled with nails and screws, the blade stayed fast and controllable. The progressive tooth geometry does what you’d hope: the finer section engages without a big “grab,” then the coarser section clears chips and accelerates the cut. I used orbital action on my saw for wood; the blade held up to the more aggressive stroke without losing teeth prematurely. Hitting nails produced sparks, but I didn’t see the sudden dulling you get with cheaper carbon blades. Compared with some dedicated demolition blades I keep on hand, this Skil piece was within a few seconds of the fastest on 2x6 crosscuts, and cleaner at the entry and exit.

Sheet goods, siding, and composites

Cutting old particle board subfloor topped with tile and thinset is usually miserable. Starting the cut with the tip, I could plunge through the top layer without skating, then let the coarse teeth do the bulk clearing. The blade didn’t clog badly, even in damp OSB. In fiber-cement siding, I kept the saw speed down and let the finer teeth work; it’s not the ideal use case, but it was manageable and didn’t torch the edge immediately. In PVC and ABS, control was excellent, and the variable teeth minimized chatter.

Metal pipe, bolts, and profiles

This is where all-purpose blades often overpromise. On 3/8-inch mild-steel bolts, I could get through cleanly, but it wasn’t fast, and the last third of each cut asked for a lighter touch to prevent tooth snag. For EMT conduit and copper, it did better—stable and predictable. Thin sheet metal can catch with a coarse tooth; the finer section at the tip helps, but if metal is your main task, a dedicated 14–18 TPI blade will still outperform this one for speed and finish. I treated the cut with a dab of cutting fluid when feasible; heat management noticeably improved tooth life on longer metal cuts.

Plunge cutting and control

The plunge-style nose is more than a marketing bullet. With the shoe planted, I could tip the saw in and pierce drywall, plywood sheathing, and laminate without walking. The key is to start slow to let the finer teeth score a kerf, then lean into the cut. Once buried, the blade tracks straight with minimal wandering—better than many general-purpose blades that feel squirrelly until fully engaged. In wall cavities, the 8-inch length gave enough reach to start holes and follow lines without overshooting studs.

Durability and wear

Blade life is the headline for any demo blade. Over the course of a project that included cutting out old rim joists, mixed fasteners, and sections of subfloor with thinset, the Skil blade kept an edge longer than I expected. The titanium-coated teeth don’t make it invincible—after a day of hitting nails and bolts, the bite becomes less eager—but the wear was gradual rather than the instant “butter knife” effect. Importantly, the body resisted the micro-kinks that eventually cause wandering; I retired the blade when it was slower, not because it bent out of true.

Compared with a premium demolition blade from Diablo or Milwaukee, this Skil blade ran slightly cooler on long wood-with-nails cuts and stayed straighter under load. On pure metal, the dedicated metal blades still have the edge in life, as they should.

Vibration, tracking, and cut quality

Vibration control was very good for a demolition-oriented tooth pattern. There’s noticeable feedback at full stroke in dense material, but nothing excessive that would make me back off. The kerf is moderately wide, which is part of why it feels stable; it also means you need to be conscious of tear-out on finish-adjacent surfaces. For rough-in and demolition, the finish is perfectly serviceable. For trim or cabinetry, you’ll want a finer, dedicated blade.

Tracking was consistently straight when I kept the shoe in firm contact with the work. In freehand cuts on irregular material, the flexible spine helped keep the tip from skating off line. Flush cuts against framing plates were doable, but the aggressive tooth set wants to nibble into the surface if you’re not careful—angle the shoe and keep speed under control.

Fit and compatibility

The universal tang locked in cleanly to several saws I tried (cordless and corded). No slop, no weird tolerances. The 8-inch length worked well under sinks, behind appliances, and in stud bays. If you regularly cut large diameter pipe or need to reach past thick wall assemblies, you’ll want a 9–12 inch option on hand; the 8-inch size is a good daily-driver compromise.

Where it shines

  • Residential and light commercial demolition where materials change constantly
  • Framing and deck work with embedded nails and screws
  • Plunge starts for cutouts in sheathing, drywall, and subfloor
  • Mixed-material cuts on renovations, especially when switching blades costs time

Where it falls short

  • Extended cuts in thicker steel; a dedicated high-TPI metal blade is faster and lasts longer
  • Finish-critical work where a narrow kerf and fine teeth matter
  • Extra-deep reach tasks where a 9- or 12-inch blade is necessary
  • Value for massive tear-downs if you prefer buying bulk packs; this is sold as a single blade

Tips for best results

  • Use orbital action for wood; turn it off for metal to protect the teeth.
  • Start plunge cuts at low speed to let the fine teeth score before you commit.
  • Keep the shoe anchored and let the blade do the work—forcing it increases heat and wear.
  • On metal, a little cutting lubricant and moderate speed notably extend life.

The bottom line

This Skil all-purpose blade earns its keep by blending a fast, demolition-friendly cut with better control and entry behavior than most coarse-tooth blades. The progressive tooth geometry genuinely helps it adapt to changing materials during a single cut, and the plunge-ready nose makes layout work faster. Durability is solid; the titanium-coated edge resists the sudden dulling that plagues cheaper options, and the bi-metal spine survives the abuses of real-world demo.

It’s not the best at any single specialty, and it isn’t meant to be. If your day is 80% wood-with-nails and 20% everything else, it’s right in the pocket. If you’re cutting stainless all afternoon or doing precision trim, reach for a dedicated blade.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade as a dependable, one-blade solution for renovation and demolition tasks where materials vary and time matters. It cuts quickly in framing, tolerates fasteners without giving up early, starts plunge cuts cleanly, and maintains control better than many “do-it-all” competitors. Keep a metal-specific blade alongside it for heavy steel, and you’ll cover the vast majority of jobsite cuts with confidence.


Project Ideas

Business

Selective Deconstruction & Salvage

Offer on-site removal of cabinets, trim, doors, and built-ins for remodels—preserving materials for resale. The blade’s plunge capability and bi-metal construction let you slice fasteners behind face surfaces and free assemblies cleanly, speeding jobs and maximizing salvage value.


Mobile Door, Trim, and Cabinet Retrofits

Serve landlords and flippers by trimming doors in place, modifying cabinets for appliances, and cutting access panels for utilities. The 8 in. all-purpose blade allows quick plunge cuts in drywall/plywood and trims through screws or nails without blade changes.


Storm Cleanup & Emergency Board-Up

Provide rapid-response cutting of downed fence panels, broken branches, and damaged siding, plus board-up services. The progressive tooth geometry tackles mixed materials (wood, nails, light metal) on-site, reducing tool loadout and turnaround time.


On-Call Cut & Remove Service

Subscription-based service for property managers to handle small but urgent cuts: flush-cutting protruding bolts, freeing painted-shut windows, removing damaged deck boards, or cutting out rusted pipe sections. The universal tang blade fits most recip saws for quick deployment.


Reclaimed Goods Microbrand

Source materials via demo jobs and turn them into sellable products (planter benches, frames, wall art). The demolition-oriented blade speeds breakdown and prep of mixed-material stock, enabling a steady pipeline from tear-out to finished goods sold online or at markets.

Creative

Reclaimed Wood + Metal Mosaic Wall Art

Create geometric wall panels from pallet boards and scrap sheet/angle metal. Use plunge cuts to inlay metal strips into wood without a router. The variable 6/12 TPI teeth let you switch between wood and light-gauge metal fasteners without swapping blades, and the bi-metal/titanium edge lets you cut through hidden nails encountered in reclaimed stock.


Pallet-to-Planter Bench

Build a compact entry bench with integrated planter boxes using pallets and 2x4 offcuts. The 8 in. blade length makes it easy to break down pallets, trimming slats and cutting through stubborn screws/bolts. Use plunge cuts to notch joinery and create drainage slots in the planter bottoms.


Industrial Pipe Lanterns

Combine reclaimed wood frames with EMT conduit or black pipe to make tabletop or hanging lanterns. The blade’s progressive tooth geometry handles both wood frames and thin-walled tubing. Plunge cut wire channels and switch openings in the wood base, then trim pipe to length for guards/handles.


Flush-Cut Rustic Picture Frames

Upcycle old trim and barn wood into frames. Use the plunge-style body to notch for glass/acrylic, and flush-cut protruding nails or screws. The variable TPI handles delicate cuts on softwood while still chewing through metal fasteners embedded in the stock.


Hidden-Cubby Bookshelf

Build a small shelf with a concealed compartment. Use plunge cuts to carve out a recess in a thick shelf board and to make a discrete access slot at the back. The titanium-coated teeth help keep cuts clean through hardwood and incidental fasteners in reclaimed material.