Jetec 4 Pieces Flashlight Mounting Brackets with Screws Versatile Clip Mount for LED Flashlights and Similar Things, Bicycle Car Truck Accessories

Why I reached for these clips

I spend a lot of time trying to keep handheld gear from rattling around in vehicles and rolling off workbench surfaces. Flashlights are the worst offenders. I wanted a simple, affordable way to fix a few lights within arm’s reach—one in my work truck, one on a garage wall, and a smaller light on a utility cart. The Jetec rubber flashlight clips fit the bill on paper: two sizes in the box, straightforward screw-on bases, and a pliable rubber that wouldn’t scratch anodized tubes or short anything out near electrics.

After using all four brackets across a few months—two in the truck, one on plywood in the garage, one on a steel cart—here’s how they actually perform.

What you get and how they’re built

You get four rubber clips: two smaller clamps for roughly 0.87–1.10 in diameter tubes and two larger clamps that cover about 1.18–1.69 inches. That envelope spans most “1-inch body, big head” flashlights and many mid-size duty lights. The rubber feels medium-firm with just enough tack to keep smooth aluminum barrels from sliding. The bases are molded with countersunk holes, and Jetec includes eight screws—four short, four long—which is thoughtful if you’re mounting into wood or plastic.

The material is non-magnetic and non-conductive. That matters if you’re mounting near fuse blocks or other electrical components, or if you just don’t want clamp magnets collecting every ferrous shaving in your shop.

Fit and sizing in practice

Sizing is everything with this style of friction clamp. Too loose and the light will creep out; too tight and you’ll tear the rubber or hate removing the light. For reference:

• A 1-inch body light (typical tactical/EDC) snaps perfectly into the small clip. It’s a one-handed, push-in, pull-out affair.
• A 1.25-inch body (larger duty light) belongs in the large clip; it holds firmly without deforming the tube or the clip.
• Oversized heads aren’t a problem as long as you’re clamping the straight body section. I positioned the clips so the head sits just outside, which also makes the light easier to grab.

If your flashlight is right at the upper edge of the size range and particularly heavy, plan to use two clips spaced a few inches apart. One clip will hold for light duty; two clips make it bombproof in vehicles.

Installation notes and tips

These are straightforward to mount, but a few tweaks make them last longer and hold better:

• Use the right hardware for your surface. The included screws are fine for plywood and thick plastic. For thin sheet metal in a vehicle, I strongly recommend rivnuts or machine screws with nylock nuts. On drywall, install proper anchors.
• Add washers. A small fender washer between screw head and rubber prevents the countersunk hole from slowly stretching under vibration.
• Pre-drill and don’t over-torque. You want the base snug to the surface without squishing the rubber out of shape.
• Orientation matters. I mount the opening facing sideways or up in vehicles so bumps don’t help gravity eject the light.
• Space clips thoughtfully. For long lights, I place one clip near the balance point and another 3–4 inches away to resist twisting.

In my truck, I used rivnuts in the center console cubby and the long screws with washers. On the garage wall (3/4-inch plywood), the short screws went straight in. The utility cart got M5 bolts and lock nuts through pre-drilled holes.

Day-to-day use

In the truck, the larger clip holds a 1.25-inch aluminum duty light tight enough that it hasn’t budged through potholes and washboard roads. I can grab and reinsert the light one-handed without the base twisting or the clip migrating.

On the garage wall, a 1-inch tube light lives in a small clip by the door. It’s become second nature to plant the tail into the opening and press the body home with a quick snap. The rubber’s surface grip helps here—it isn’t sticky, but it offers a reassuring bite.

The cart mount sees the most in-and-out cycles. The clip hasn’t loosened noticeably, and the rubber hasn’t scuffed the light’s anodizing. There’s minimal squeak or friction noise, which I appreciate in a quiet shop.

Durability and environmental considerations

Rubber mounts are always a compromise between elasticity and longevity. So far, after a warm summer in the garage and plenty of road vibration in the truck, the clips have held their shape and tension. The bases haven’t cracked and there are no visible splits at the countersinks.

That said, I wouldn’t mount these under a hood or anywhere they’ll see high heat or direct, prolonged UV exposure. Rubber will eventually harden or crack in harsh environments. If you’re outfitting a boat or an outdoor rack, upgrade the hardware to stainless and try to keep the clamps shaded. An occasional wipe with mild soap keeps dust from glazing the rubber surface and reducing grip.

What they do better—and where they fall short

Strengths:
- Simple, tool-friendly design. No moving parts to rattle loose, nothing to adjust once installed.
- Surface-safe. The rubber doesn’t mar anodized aluminum or painted surfaces and won’t short across terminals.
- Versatile sizing. The two sizes cover the most common flashlight body diameters, plus small batons, air pumps, and other cylindrical odds and ends.
- Solid hold in vibration-prone settings when sized correctly. Two clips make long or heavier lights secure enough for off-road use.

Trade-offs:
- Not truly universal. Very thick-barrel lights or unusually heavy flashlights can challenge the grip if you rely on a single clip.
- Heat sensitivity. Don’t expect rubber to thrive in an engine bay or sunbaked metal for months on end.
- Hardware is situational. The included screws are fine for wood; vehicles and boats deserve better fasteners and backing.
- No adjustment range. If your flashlight sits between the two size bands, you’ll need to test both or accept a tighter fit.

Small optimizations that help

• For heavier lights, use two large clips and install with threadlocker on the screws.
• If you’re worried about accidental ejection, orient the clip opening toward the least likely direction of force (usually up or toward the cabin wall).
• On thin panels, add a backing plate inside the panel to spread load and reduce flex.
• If the rubber feels slick from oil or silicone, clean it with isopropyl alcohol to restore grip.

Alternatives worth considering

Metal ring clamps are more heat-tolerant but will mar finishes and can transmit vibration. Magnetic mounts are quick to reposition but pick up debris and don’t belong near sensitive electronics. Brand-name heavy-duty rubber clamps exist with larger size ranges, but they’re usually pricier and bulkier. For most flashlight mounting tasks inside a vehicle, on a wall, or on a cart, these low-profile rubber clips hit a practical sweet spot.

The bottom line

The Jetec rubber flashlight clips solve a simple problem well: they hold common flashlights securely, they’re gentle on finishes, and they install with basic tools almost anywhere—walls, vehicles, carts, even boats with the right hardware. They’re not the answer for extreme heat or oversized, heavy torches mounted with a single clip, but with sensible sizing and installation they stay put through vibration and daily use.

Recommendation: I recommend these clips for anyone looking to mount standard 1-inch to 1.25-inch body flashlights in indoor, vehicle cabin, or shaded outdoor locations. They’re affordable, easy to set up, and, when paired with appropriate hardware and orientation, reliable. If your application involves high heat, constant sun, or very heavy lights, consider stepping up to a more robust clamp system—or plan on using two of these with upgraded fasteners and periodic inspection.