Shark Industrial Shark Premium 10 FT Stainless Steel Dishwasher Hose - Burst Proof Water Supply Line 3/8" MIP Elbow - 10 Year Warranty

Why I reached for a 10‑foot hose

Replacing a dishwasher in an older kitchen often uncovers one of two realities: a rigid copper supply line that’s been bent one too many times, or a flexible hose that’s just a bit too short for a clean, serviceable install. I hit both. I needed extra length to route around a cabinet bay and enough flexibility to pull the appliance out in the future without re-plumbing anything. That sent me to the Shark 10‑ft dishwasher hose, a stainless braided line that promises durability, straightforward installation, and broad compatibility.

Build quality and materials

This hose presents well out of the box. The braid is true 304 stainless steel, which matters. Not all “stainless” braids are created equal—lesser alloys can rust in steamy, under‑sink environments. The 304 weave on this Shark hose is tight and consistent, with crimp collars that look clean and properly swaged. The end fittings are 3/8‑inch compression on both sides, and the package includes a 90‑degree elbow that transitions 3/8‑inch compression to 3/8‑inch MIP (male iron pipe). The elbow is compact enough to keep the connection low profile behind the toe‑kick.

Internally, the hose uses the standard flexible tubing you’d expect for hot‑water dishwasher duty. Shark lists compliance with ASME A112.18.6/CSA B125.6 and NSF/ANSI 61 and 372, so it’s rated for potable water and low lead. I’ve seen plenty of budget lines with mystery metallurgy and no published standards; this isn’t that.

Compatibility: read this before you buy

Dishwasher connections are a little confusing because there are two sides to think about:

• At the shutoff valve: Most under‑sink angle stops in North America present a 3/8‑inch compression outlet. That mates directly to one end of this hose—no adapters required.
• At the dishwasher: Many modern dishwashers expect a 3/4‑inch female garden hose (FGH) connection via a 90‑degree elbow included by the appliance manufacturer. Others accept a 3/8‑inch NPT (MIP) connection.

Out of the box, the Shark hose will thread straight onto the common 3/8‑inch compression stop. For the appliance end, you have options:
- If your dishwasher wants 3/8‑inch NPT, the included 3/8‑inch MIP elbow will thread into the appliance; the hose’s compression end attaches to the elbow.
- If your dishwasher wants 3/4‑inch FGH (very common), you’ll need a 3/8‑inch compression × 3/4‑inch FGH elbow. Shark sells one separately, and it keeps everything in a tidy 90‑degree turn.

In my install, the appliance came with its own 3/4‑inch FGH elbow. I used that and connected the Shark hose’s 3/8‑inch compression end to the elbow’s compression side. If you’re unsure which style you have, peek at your dishwasher’s installation sheet before you start—having the right elbow on hand turns this into a 10‑minute job.

Installation experience

With the shutoff valve closed and a towel in the cabinet, I unthreaded the old line and inspected the stop’s ferrule. The Shark hose has captive compression nuts with their own ferrules, so you’re not reusing old brass rings; you simply align the hose, start the threads by hand, and snug with a wrench. On compression threads, no tape or paste is needed. On the NPT side (if you use the provided elbow), you’ll want thread sealant or PTFE tape.

The stainless braid is flexible enough to snake around a garbage disposal and P‑trap without kinking, but it also holds a gentle curve so it doesn’t flop into sharp corners. The 10‑foot length is the hero here. Rather than stretching a 6‑foot hose or coupling two lines (never a great idea), I was able to route a big, sweeping arc to the dishwasher alcove and still leave slack so the appliance can slide out for service.

After snugging connections, I opened the valve and checked for weeps. Nothing. I ran a quick cycle to bring hot water through, then checked again. Still dry. As always, the trick is not to over‑torque compression fittings; hand‑tight plus a quarter turn is usually plenty.

Day‑to‑day performance

A supply hose has a simple job: deliver hot water reliably and safely. Over several weeks of daily cycles, the Shark line has been uneventful in the best way—no expansion noises, no sweat or weep at the crimps, and no sign of corrosion where the braid crosses the cabinet floor. The 90‑degree geometry at the dishwasher eliminates the “tight bend behind the toe‑kick” problem that can fatigue lesser hoses. The braid also provides decent abrasion resistance where the hose brushes by a cabinet cutout.

I’m not going to call any hose “burst proof,” because water pressure spikes and installation damage can defeat most anything. But between the 304 braid, solid crimps, and compliance with current ASME/CSA standards, I’d place this in the “durable, set‑and‑forget” category for residential use.

The value of 10 feet

The extra length solves more than reach. It lets you:
- Avoid tight radius bends that stress fittings
- Route around disposal bodies and filtration canisters
- Leave service loops so the dishwasher can be slid out without disconnecting water
- Install in islands or offset locations without daisy‑chaining lines

If you’ve ever had to connect two shorter hoses with a coupler to make an odd run, this is a cleaner, safer answer.

Standards and safety

Two items matter to me on supply lines: third‑party standards and lead content. The NSF/ANSI 61 and 372 listings cover potable water safety and low‑lead requirements. The ASME/CSA designation tells me the hose has been tested for performance and integrity as a plumbing supply component. Combined with a stated 10‑year warranty, it’s the sort of paperwork that gives confidence in a hidden component you won’t see again for a decade.

What could be better

• Fitment clarity: Plumbing terminology is a minefield, and not every dishwasher uses the same inlet. While the included 3/8‑inch MIP elbow covers one common scenario, many homeowners will need the 3/8‑inch compression × 3/4‑inch FGH elbow (sold separately). I’d love to see that option bundled or at least clearer guidance on appliance compatibility right on the packaging.
• Color cueing: A small band or tag indicating “dishwasher end” vs “supply end” would help DIYers, even though the hose is symmetric. Not necessary, but helpful.
• Availability of a 90‑degree stop‑side elbow: In very tight cabinets, a low‑profile 3/8‑inch compression elbow at the stop can prevent interference with bins and disposals. Not a knock on the hose itself, but a nice companion accessory.

Tips for a clean install

• Plan your route with the dishwasher fully out; avoid any radius tighter than a grapefruit.
• Use thread sealant on NPT threads only; leave compression threads dry.
• If your dishwasher includes its own elbow, use it—it’s usually designed for the appliance’s clearance.
• After the first hot cycle, recheck all connections. Thermal cycling can relax a fitting by a hair.
• Secure the hose with a clamp if it wants to rub against a sharp cabinet edge.

Verdict and recommendation

The Shark 10‑ft dishwasher hose hits the right notes: true 304 stainless steel braid, proper compliance markings, an included elbow for one of the common appliance connections, and enough length to make professional‑looking routes without resorting to couplers. It installed without drama, hasn’t leaked, and gives me the service loop I want so future maintenance doesn’t mean re‑plumbing the kitchen.

I recommend it for anyone who needs more than the standard 6 feet, is replacing a rigid copper line, or simply wants a robust, standards‑compliant supply hose with a long warranty. The only caveat is to confirm your dishwasher’s inlet thread and grab the correct elbow if you need a 3/4‑inch FGH connection. Do that bit of homework and this becomes a straightforward, cost‑effective upgrade that you’ll install once and forget about for years.