Eastman 12 Ft. Dishwasher Installation Kit, Braided Stainless Steel Supply Line with 3/8 Inch Compression Ends, 41058

Why I reached for this kit

A long run between my shutoff valve and the dishwasher meant the usual 5–6 foot connector wasn’t going to cut it. I wanted something flexible enough to snake through a crowded cabinet bay, durable enough to outlast multiple appliance pull-outs, and simple enough that I wouldn’t be hunting for oddball adapters mid-install. The Eastman 12‑ft dishwasher install kit checked the right boxes on paper, so I put it to work on a retrofit where switching from old soft copper to braided stainless made sense.

What’s in the box and how it’s built

The kit centers on a 12‑foot braided stainless supply line with 3/8‑inch compression ends. It’s a multi‑layer hose: PVC core, nylon braid reinforcement, a clear vinyl shell, and a stainless exterior, terminated with nickel‑plated brass nuts. That stack-up is exactly what I look for in a connector that’s going to see warm, chlorinated water and occasional cabinet abrasion. The stainless braid protects against kinks and scuffs, while the inner layers handle pressure and temperature cycling.

You also get two 90‑degree elbows:
- A 3/4‑inch FHT (female hose thread) elbow for dishwashers that use a garden-hose–style inlet at the appliance.
- A 3/8‑inch MIP (male iron pipe/NPT) elbow for installs that need a pipe-threaded turn in tight quarters.

Both elbows are meant to interface with the 3/8‑inch compression hose ends, so you can adapt cleanly without cobbling together a chain of fittings. The hose is rated for potable water, 200 PSI, and 15–158°F, and it carries UPC and CSA certifications—reassuring for a component you’ll install and forget.

Installation experience

This was a straightforward, no‑solder job, and the long length made routing much easier than expected.

My process:
1. Shut off the water at the angle stop and depressurize the line.
2. Dry-fit the route to confirm the 12 ft length would make a generous loop behind the dishwasher without forcing tight bends.
3. Attach the 3/4‑inch FHT elbow to the dishwasher’s inlet. Hose threads seal with a washer, so no PTFE tape—just hand-tight and a modest wrench snug.
4. Connect one 3/8‑inch compression end of the hose to the elbow at the dishwasher (no tape on compression fittings).
5. Connect the other 3/8‑inch compression end at the angle stop.
6. Open the valve, check for leaks, run a short fill to purge air, and then run a cycle while inspecting.

Two things stood out. First, the nickel‑plated brass nuts turned smoothly and seated without drama—no gritty threads, no binding, and the factory-installed washers were pliable and uniform. Second, the 90‑degree elbow at the appliance keeps the bend radius gentle. That matters: sharp bends at the dishwasher inlet are a common cause of weeping leaks or noisy fill valves. In my case, I didn’t need the 3/8‑inch MIP elbow, but it’s a useful inclusion for valve locations that demand a turn right off the connection.

The hose material is notably more cooperative than the soft copper line I pulled out. It’s flexible enough to route around plumbing and electrical without kinking, but it still holds a broad loop so the dishwasher can slide out for service without stressing the fittings. Twelve feet gave me ample slack; I tacked the loop to the cabinet back with nylon clamps to prevent chafe.

Performance after install

Once up and running, there’s not much drama to report—which is ideal for a water connector. No seepage at the compression joints, no drip from the appliance elbow, and the line stayed quiet during fill cycles. Flow rate is more than adequate; even with the extra length, the dishwasher filled on its normal timing, which tells me the internal diameter and smooth path are up to par.

Temperature exposure is well within spec for typical dishwasher operation (most machines call for 120–140°F inlet). The 200 PSI rating is overkill for residential service, even during hammer events. Between the braided exterior and the multiple internal layers, I’m comfortable leaving this in place and inspecting it annually as part of my routine under‑sink check.

Compatibility notes and caveats

• Valve outlet: This hose terminates in 3/8‑inch compression. If your angle stop is 3/8‑inch compression (common), you’re set. If you have a 1/2‑inch or 3/8‑inch NPT outlet, you’ll need an appropriate adapter or to use the included 3/8‑inch MIP elbow where it makes sense. Remember that NPT threads require PTFE tape; compression threads do not.
• Dishwasher inlet: Many dishwashers use a 3/4‑inch hose thread adapter at the appliance. The included FHT elbow satisfies that. Some models ship with their own elbow—if yours does, use the better-fitting part and keep the other as a spare.
• Length: Twelve feet is generous. If your run is short, a shorter connector might be tidier. For long runs like mine, the extra length lets you route a large, stress‑free loop and still fully pull the unit for service.
• Not a flood‑safety line: This is a robust standard connector, not a flood‑safe hose with auto‑shutoff. If you need appliance leak detection or a check valve, plan to add those separately.

Build quality under the hood

The layered construction here is more than marketing. The PVC core provides the waterway; nylon reinforcement resists burst; the vinyl shell adds a second moisture barrier; and stainless braid gives abrasion resistance and crush protection. The brass nuts are nickel‑plated for corrosion resistance, and the elbows are machined cleanly with square shoulders and properly seated washers. This is the kind of connector that tolerates being nudged around during future under‑sink work without turning into a maintenance headache.

Practical tips for a trouble‑free install

• Use the right seal strategy: PTFE tape only on tapered pipe threads (NPT/MIP). Do not tape compression or hose threads with washers.
• Respect bend radius: Avoid tight bends right at the fittings. Use the 90‑degree elbow at the appliance to prevent strain on the inlet.
• Secure the slack: A couple of nylon clamps or straps keep the long loop from rubbing on sharp cabinet cutouts or vibrating against copper pipes.
• Flush debris: Before final hookup to the appliance, briefly crack the valve and flush the line into a bucket to clear any sediment that could foul the dishwasher’s fill valve.
• Leak check warm: Recheck connections after the first hot cycle; gaskets warm and settle slightly.

Value and alternatives

You can certainly piece together a line and adapters from loose parts, but by the time you add a stainless connector, a 3/4‑inch FHT elbow, and a tight‑radius 3/8‑inch MIP elbow, you’re at or above the cost of this kit—and you still need to ensure thread compatibility. Copper tube with compression fittings remains a valid approach for straight, short runs, but it’s less forgiving during installation and service, and it can kink if the dishwasher is moved without care. For my money, the braided stainless route is the modern, serviceable choice, especially in retrofits.

The bottom line

The Eastman 12‑ft dishwasher install kit did exactly what I needed: clean, adaptable connections; enough length to route a stress‑free loop; and hardware quality that instills confidence. Installation was quick, sealing surfaces were consistent, and the multi‑layer hose construction is appropriate for the pressures and temperatures a dishwasher sees.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for anyone who needs a longer-than-standard dishwasher supply with reliable fittings and wants to avoid a trip back to the store for “one more adapter.” It’s particularly well‑suited for retrofits where the shutoff valve is far from the appliance or when you want the ability to pull the dishwasher fully out without disconnecting the water. If your setup requires a much shorter line or integrated flood‑safety features, look to a shorter connector or a specialty hose. Otherwise, this is a solid, well‑built kit that installs easily and stays out of your way.