SEISSO Wood Repair Kit Touch up Paint Restore Any Wooden Furniture Stain, 12 Colors Cover Surface Scratch for Wooden Floor Table, Filler Furniture Paint Oak, Cabinet, Door, Veneer, Walnut

A flexible, mixable touch-up kit for everyday wood repairs

Scratches, edge wear, and the odd chip are part of living with wood furniture and floors. I tried the Seisso wood repair kit on a mix of pieces around my home—light maple shelving, a walnut box, a mahogany chair, and painted cabinets—to see how far a small set of squeezable fillers could go. The short version: if you’re willing to spend a few minutes mixing and feathering color, this compact kit can make common blemishes far less noticeable, often to the point where I had to remind myself where they were.

What’s in the kit and how it works

The kit includes 12 small tubes of colored resin filler spanning light to dark: white, wood white, ivory, original wood, amber yellow, oak, yellow sandalwood, teak, padauk, grey, black walnut, and black. There’s a simple scraper for spreading and leveling. No separate glue or hardener is needed—just squeeze the filler into the scratch or chip, smooth it, and let it dry. It sets quickly to the touch, but plan for a full air cure of roughly two to three days; keep the area dry during that time.

This is a touch-up system, not a structural repair solution. It’s designed to visually blend surface flaws and fill shallow imperfections. For deep gouges or broken corners, you’ll still want a dedicated wood filler or epoxy repair first, with this kit used afterward for color.

Application: quick wins with some technique

On narrow scratches and worn edges, the process is fast. I put a pea-sized amount of the closest color on a scrap card, nudged it lighter or darker by mixing, then pressed a tiny bead directly into the scratch. Using the included scraper (a plastic card works too), I leveled the fill and wiped away excess with a slightly damp cloth before it began to set. For hairline scuffs, a near-dry cloth lightly tinted with the mixed color helped “tone” the area without leaving a visible ridge.

For chips that exposed lighter substrate (like the corner of a dark cabinet door), I built the fill in two to three thin passes. The first pass focused on leveling. Subsequent passes were about dialing in color and grain direction—more on that below. The filler grabs quickly, which is helpful for vertical surfaces, but it also means you should work in small sections and have your color mixed before you touch the piece.

A hair dryer on low gently accelerated the surface set so I could carefully buff any haze from the surrounding finish. Then I left everything alone for 48–72 hours before cleaning or exposing it to moisture.

Color matching: the core skill

Straight from the tube, some colors were nearly spot on for common finishes (oak and black walnut were particularly useful). The strength of the kit, though, is in blending. Mixing is as simple as touching two small dabs together with the scraper until you get a match. A few tips that made a big difference:

• Start lighter. It’s easier to darken a mix with a speck of black or walnut than to recover from going too dark.
• Warm vs. cool. Amber yellow and padauk warm up a mix; grey and black cool it down or mute a too-vivid blend.
• Whites in layers. On painted or very light woods, use white or wood white as a base, then glaze with a hint of ivory to avoid a sterile patch.
• Feather the edges. Lightly blur the border of the repair with a clean cloth to avoid a hard halo in the sheen.

To mimic a grain line across a wide scratch, I applied the base color first, let it set, then used a toothpick with a slightly darker mix to draw a faint line following the grain. It sounds fussy, but it takes seconds and sells the repair.

Performance on different surfaces

• Maple bookshelf (light finish): A blend of wood white, ivory, and a touch of oak covered small scratches convincingly. On shallow dents, a couple of thin passes kept the fill flush without a noticeable patch.
• Walnut box (dark finish): Black walnut with a dot of black hid corner wear and a tiny chip on the lid. On close inspection under raking light, I could see a slight sheen difference; from normal viewing distance, the repair disappeared.
• Mahogany chair (reddish tone): Teak plus padauk warmed nicely to match the chair’s tone. Edge wear along a rung responded well to tinting rather than heavy filling.
• Painted cabinet (white): White blended well over hairline scuffs. For a larger chip exposing substrate, I layered white twice, lightly smoothing between passes. The color match was good, though painted surfaces make any change in sheen more obvious.

On an older oak floor with pet scratches, thin tinted passes toned down the light lines without creating sticky ridges that would catch dirt. I wouldn’t use this kit for deep floor gouges, but as a fast cosmetic fix for traffic lines and surface scuffs, it worked well.

Drying, durability, and cleanup

The filler skins over quickly—within minutes—so it stays where you put it. That speed helps avoid sagging on vertical repairs but shortens open time. After a day, light touch-ups near the area didn’t disturb the fill. After two to three days, the filler felt set and water-resistant in normal use. I avoided wet cleaning until after that window and haven’t seen any softening with routine wipe-downs.

Cleanup is straightforward if you catch it before it sets. A slightly damp cloth removed smears from the surrounding finish. Once cured, it’s best to mechanically remove any unwanted ridge with a plastic scraper rather than solvent.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not for structural damage. It’s a cosmetic filler. Large voids, broken corners, or soft, punky wood need a different repair first.
• Quick drying reduces work time. You’ll get better results by pre-mixing color and working in small areas.
• Sheen mismatch can show on high-gloss finishes. Feathering edges helps. You can also minimize build by tinting scuffs rather than trying to fill them proud.
• Multiple passes may be needed. On deeper scratches, the filler can shrink slightly as it cures. A second light application the next day brings it flush.

These aren’t deal-breakers, but they shape how you approach a repair. The kit rewards a light touch and patience over heavy single-pass fills.

Practical tips from use

• Test in an inconspicuous spot to confirm color and sheen behavior.
• Pre-mix on a disposable card and keep the amount tiny; fresh mixes look better than overworked blends.
• Build color gradually: base match first, then add warmth/coolth as needed.
• Keep a damp cloth on hand to immediately wipe halo smears before they set.
• For a cleaner edge, mask alongside a long scratch with low-tack tape; remove tape right after leveling.
• Use a hair dryer on low to set the surface, then leave it alone to cure fully for 2–3 days away from water.
• Cap tubes tightly and store them upright in a cool, dry place to prevent drying between projects.

Value and positioning

The appeal here is breadth and simplicity: 12 blendable colors cover most common wood tones without buying separate pens, waxes, or stains. For homeowners, renters, and DIYers, it’s a handy “fix it now” kit that lives with other household supplies. For pros, it’s a useful punch-list tool for blending install nicks and job-site scuffs in minutes.

It’s not a replacement for full refinishing or heavy-duty wood repair products, but that’s not its purpose. As a cosmetic touch-up system, it offers a good balance of control, speed, and permanence.

Recommendation

I recommend the Seisso wood repair kit for anyone who needs reliable, quick cosmetic fixes on wood furniture, cabinets, and floors. Its strengths are the mixable color range, easy application, and fast set that keeps repairs tidy. Expect to spend a little time dialing in color and layering thinly, especially on deeper scratches or glossy surfaces. If you need to rebuild missing wood or handle large structural damage, pair it with a dedicated filler first. For everyday scratches, scuffs, and chips, this kit made my blemishes hard to spot and kept me from reaching for paint or a more involved refinishing job.