DeWalt 3/16" Pilot Point drill bit (bulk)

Why I reached for this bit

A 3/16-in hole is a bread‑and‑butter size for shop fixtures, pilot holes for lag screws, and general fabrication. I’ve been using this DeWalt 3/16-in pilot‑point bit as my go‑to “one‑off” solution across wood, sheet goods, mild steel, and plastics. It’s not a specialty cutter, and that’s the point: I wanted to see if one bit could reliably cover mixed materials in a day’s work without a pile of jigging, center punching, or swapping to brad‑points.

Design and build

The standout feature is the pilot‑point tip. Unlike a conventional chisel‑tip jobber bit, the point engages immediately and guides the body of the bit into the cut. In practice, that means less “ice skating” across metal and far fewer divots from misstarts in wood and plastics. The web is noticeably tapered, which DeWalt claims improves durability. I can’t measure web thickness precisely, but I can say the bit feels rigid for its size, and it didn’t flex or chatter under a reasonable feed.

The overall length is 3.5 in, with roughly 2.31 in of working length. That shorter, jobber‑length format is an advantage for handheld drilling—stiffer, easier to control, and less prone to whipping compared to longer bits. The shank has a no‑spin treatment that kept it from slipping in both my older keyless chuck and a keyed drill press chuck. That matters more than it sounds; once a bit slips and polishes the shank, it’s a downhill slide.

A small but welcome detail: size markings are printed above the shank. After a couple of sessions, they were still legible. If you’ve fished through a coffee can of bits, you know how nice that is.

Performance in wood

In softwood (stud‑grade pine) and hardwood (white oak), starts are clean and centered without center punching. The pilot point scores the surface, so the cutting lips don’t pry fibers ahead of the cut as aggressively as a standard twist bit. It’s not a dedicated brad‑point in terms of tear‑out control, but with a backer block I got clean exits in plywood and melamine, which is usually where general‑purpose bits stumble.

Speed wise, I ran it near full speed on a cordless drill for wood. To keep holes crisp:
- Use a backer to avoid blow‑out on the exit.
- Clear chips with a quick peck in deeper holes.
- Keep the drill square; the tip will compensate a little, but not for a sloppy wrist.

The holes measured right on the money with my calipers in hardwood—close enough to 3/16 in that a typical 3/16 rivet or clearance fastener fit as expected. I didn’t see the bit burning or scoring, even when pushing through dense oak.

Performance in metal

Mild steel (1/8 in and 3/16 in plate) and aluminum (6061 sheet and 1/8 in angle) are where the pilot point earns its keep. On flat bar, I could start without a punch and maintain location. In thin sheet, I still prefer a very light center mark or painter’s tape just to keep it from skating on the first touch, but most of the time I just squeezed the trigger and went.

• For mild steel, I stayed around 700–1,000 RPM with a light oil.
• For aluminum, 1,500–2,000 RPM dry or with a touch of wax.

Breakthrough is controlled. The bit doesn’t “grab” as it exits the far side nearly as much as a standard twist bit, which reduces the chance of the work jumping or the bit binding and snapping. I still chamfer lightly or deburr after drilling metal; the exit burr is modest but present, as expected.

If you primarily drill stainless or hardened steels, this isn’t the right bit. It handled mild steel fine, and it will get through a few holes in 304 if you manage speed and lubrication, but a cobalt split‑point would be my choice for that kind of work. Within the “multi‑material” brief, though, it’s confidence‑inspiring and quick.

Performance in plastics

Acrylic and PVC are notorious for cracking and grabbing. The pilot point gives a gentle entry without the wandering that can craze acrylic. I ran slow to medium speed with minimal pressure and let the tip do the work. Clearing chips frequently is key; otherwise, the heat can soften the kerf and weld the swarf back in. I got clean, round holes with no star cracking when I supported the backside with a scrap and avoided aggressive feed.

Accuracy and surface finish

The bit tracks straight. On a drill press with a reasonably true chuck, runout wasn’t noticeable, and handheld holes landed where I aimed them. The hole walls in wood are smooth for a general‑purpose bit, with a slight polishing you’d expect from a sharp edge. In metal, the finish is serviceable—no gouging or tearing—leaving a hole that taps cleanly if you step up your technique.

Durability and heat management

After a day that included:
- A couple dozen holes in pine and plywood,
- A dozen holes in white oak,
- Around 20 holes in 1/8 in mild steel,
- A handful in aluminum and PVC,

the cutting edges were still crisp, and the bit hadn’t blued. The tapered web seems to resist snapping during the occasional imperfect breakthrough, and I didn’t see the edges chipping. As always, speed, pressure, and lubrication matter more than any single design feature. Abuse any bit, and it will let you know. Treated reasonably, this one holds up.

Usability touches

The no‑spin shank is effective. In my worn keyless chuck, it stayed put, which meant fewer mid‑hole re‑tightening stops. The shorter length improves control. And the legible size marking actually survives real use—no guessing which bit you’re picking up from the bench.

One nit: like any pilot‑point, you can’t easily “walk” the hole over a hair if your mark is off; the tip commits early. That’s usually a positive, but it’s worth noting. If you need to adjust position, lightly open the mark with a punch and come back.

Limitations and best practices

• Not a stainless/hardened steel solution; reach for cobalt or carbide there.
• In very thin sheet metal, the pilot point reduces but doesn’t eliminate catching—use a backer, clamp well, and lighten up as you break through.
• For ultra‑clean cabinetry work, a brad‑point still leaves the prettiest entry/exit in hardwoods, though this bit is close with a backer.

Best practices that helped:
- Peck drill to clear chips, especially in deep wood and plastics.
- Use cutting fluid for steel.
- Let the pilot point find its bite before applying full pressure.
- Support the exit side to prevent blow‑out and grabbing.

Value and who it’s for

This is sold individually, often in bulk packaging, which suits how I actually buy bits: grab the sizes I burn through. It fills the “general‑purpose, always‑ready” slot in the kit. Pros who bounce between materials will appreciate the time saved on starts, and DIYers get a more forgiving bit that doesn’t punish imperfect setup.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt 3/16‑in pilot‑point bit as a reliable, multi‑material workhorse. The pilot tip starts accurately, the no‑spin shank keeps the bit planted in the chuck, and the tapered web gives it the stiffness and toughness to survive mixed‑material days. It won’t replace cobalt split‑points for stainless or brad‑points for furniture‑grade joinery, but for wood, mild steel, aluminum, and plastics, it consistently makes clean, on‑location holes with fewer hiccups. If you want one 3/16‑in bit you can reach for without thinking, this one earns that trust.