Bosch T-Shank jig saw pro blades for metal

I reached for Bosch’s metal jigsaw blades on a recent run of light metalwork—trimming wire shelving, cutting aluminum channel, and sizing a small stainless cover panel. The blades looked overbuilt for a jigsaw: long, fine-toothed, and clearly designed for clean cuts rather than brute speed. After a week of on-and-off use, I came away impressed with their control and surface finish, with a few caveats around speed and blade management you’ll want to account for.

What stands out

These Bosch metal jigsaw blades are long (250 mm overall) with a fine 23 TPI tooth pitch and a wavy-set, milled tooth form. They’re bi‑metal, which gives you a high-speed steel cutting edge bonded to a flexible backer. That pairing is exactly what I want in a metal blade: teeth that resist rounding and a spine that won’t snap if you bind the cut or nick a fastener. They slot cleanly into every T‑shank saw I own and lock up securely without wiggle at the clamp.

The wavy set is the headline feature here. Instead of alternating teeth bent left and right (like a classic set), the teeth are grouped in waves that spread the cut load and reduce chatter. In practice, that translated to a surprisingly smooth feed and less burring on thin sheet.

Setup and technique

I ran these blades in both a Bosch barrel-grip and a Makita top-handle jigsaw. A few setup notes made a big difference:

• Orbital action: Off for all metals. These teeth are meant to slice, not gouge.
• Speed: Moderate for aluminum (middle of the dial), slower for stainless and thicker mild steel.
• Support: Clamp the work solidly and use a sacrificial backer when you can; it steadies the cut and reduces exit burrs.
• Lubrication: A drop of cutting fluid or a swipe of paste on the blade keeps edges cooler and improves finish, especially on stainless.

The blade length is handy for deeper work and sandwich panels, but length introduces leverage. Make sure your saw’s blade guide/roller is set correctly and actually supporting the back of the blade before you start.

Cutting performance in metal

On wire shelving (mild steel rod), the blades gave clean, controlled cuts with minimal flare at the ends of the wires. I could feather the trigger and let the teeth do the work; the wavy set prevents the blade from “grabbing” a single strand and twisting. On 1–2 mm aluminum sheet, the finish was excellent—edges were bright and required only a light deburr pass with a file. In 1 mm 304 stainless, cutting was slower, as expected, but still manageable with a steady feed and lube. The big win in stainless was tooth integrity: I saw no chipped or folded teeth after multiple cuts.

Where they’re less at home is thicker stock. With a 23 TPI pitch, you’ll get through 3 mm mild steel, but you won’t be doing it quickly. If you routinely cut plate or heavy bar, a coarser jigsaw blade or a different tool (bandsaw/recip saw) will be faster. For the thin-to-medium gauge materials these blades target, the balance of speed to finish is more than fair.

Sandwich materials and composites

These blades are marked for “sandwich materials,” and that claim holds up. On aluminum composite panel (3 mm ACM/ACP), the fine teeth prevented face chipping and delivered a crisp edge on both skins. I ran with painter’s tape along the cut line to protect the finish and used a backer; the results looked router-clean.

I also sampled a small foam-core steel panel offcut. The long reach was genuinely helpful here. With a slow feed and no orbital, the teeth sheared the skins neatly and didn’t tear the foam into ragged chunks. Again, not the fastest method for big runs of insulated panel, but effective when a jigsaw is the only practical tool on site.

Cut quality and control

This is where these blades shine. The wavy-set, milled teeth track predictably and leave a narrow kerf with minimal burr on the exit side. I noticed less blade wander than I normally expect from such a long blade—provided I didn’t force the cut. Push too hard and any long blade will flex; let the blade set the pace and it will stay on line.

Curves are doable in sweeping arcs, but tight radii aren’t the forte of a fine, long metal blade. If you need small, precise curves in thin aluminum, you’ll have better luck scoring/snapping or using a shorter blade with a bit more flexibility.

Durability

Bosch calls these “breakproof,” and while no blade is immune to bad technique, the bi‑metal spine held up well. I did a few less-than-ideal moves—short plunge starts, cutting close to a clamp, and an accidental brush against a screw head. No snapped blades, no missing teeth, and only minor discoloration from heat on one blade after a longer stainless cut. Edge retention was solid; after several meters of cut in mixed materials, the tooth tips still bit cleanly without skating.

As always, heat is the enemy. Slow the stroke rate for stainless, keep pressure light, and use a dab of lube. The payoff is blade life that feels above average for the category.

Speed versus finish

You buy a 23 TPI blade for finish and control, not raw speed. These blades are on the deliberate side compared to coarser options, but the cut quality is consistently higher. On jobs where the edge is visible or tolerance matters—a stainless trim piece, finished aluminum channel, composite panels—the slower feed is worth the time saved on cleanup. If you’re roughing in cuts where the edge will be hidden, choose something coarser and shorter.

Compatibility and handling

The T‑shank interface fit all my saws cleanly, and the long shank never bottomed out in the clamps. The 250 mm length is a double-edged sword: great reach, more to control. Keep the shoe flat, use the saw’s blade roller, and don’t cant the saw in the cut. With those habits, the blades feel precise rather than unwieldy.

Noise and vibration were moderate to low for metal cutting. Chip size is fine; eye protection is non-negotiable, and gloves are wise for handling the freshly cut edge.

Value and pack options

You can get these in 3‑piece and 5‑piece packs. Given the lifespan I experienced, even the smaller pack will carry you through a surprising amount of work in sheet and composite. If your workflow is heavy on aluminum and thin steel—signage, HVAC brackets, wire shelving, cabinet trim—the value proposition is strong because you’ll spend less time dressing edges and swapping blades.

What could be better

• Not a thick-stock blade. For anything beyond a few millimeters of steel, plan on different teeth or a different tool.
• The long format demands discipline. Impatient feed rates will cause flex and off-line cuts.
• Plunge starts are possible but not pleasant at this tooth pitch. Drill a starter hole when you can.

None of these are faults so much as boundaries inherent to the design brief.

Recommendation

I recommend these Bosch metal jigsaw blades for anyone who needs clean, controlled cuts in thin-gauge metals and sandwich materials. The fine 23 TPI tooth pitch, wavy-set profile, and bi‑metal construction deliver smooth edges, low burr, and durable performance, especially in aluminum, wire shelving, and stainless sheet. They’re slower than coarser blades and not suited to heavy plate, but when finish matters and you want a blade that tracks true and resists breakage, these are an easy choice to keep in the kit.