DeWalt 4" 6 TPI U-Shank Fast/Rough Wood Cutting HCS Jig Saw Blade

I tossed this blade into my jigsaw for a weekend of deck repairs and a couple of rough cutouts in a subfloor. It’s a simple, purpose-built accessory: a 4-inch, 6 TPI, high-carbon-steel wood blade with a U‑shank. In practice, that means fast, aggressive cuts in softwoods and sheet goods, with finish quality taking a back seat to speed. If that aligns with what you need, this DeWalt wood blade gets the job done reliably.

Design and what it’s built for

On paper, the specs are straightforward: 4-inch length, 6 teeth per inch, high carbon steel, U-shank, sold in a 5-pack. The teeth are listed as precision-ground rather than stamped, and the gullets are noticeably deeper than on general-purpose blades. Those two details matter in use. The ground teeth give a cleaner bite than you’d expect from a coarse 6 TPI profile, and the deep gullets carry chips out efficiently so the blade doesn’t pack up in resinous softwoods or OSB. It’s still a rough-cut blade, full stop—but it’s a good one.

The 4-inch format is the standard “short” jigsaw blade length. Realistically, that gives you comfortable cutting through 3/4-inch sheet goods and even 2x dimensional lumber, though you’ll see more deflection as the stock gets thicker or the curves tighter. If you’re regularly cutting 2x material, you can make it work with sensible feed pressure and a sharp blade, but you’ll want to let the blade do the work.

Compatibility and setup

This is a U-shank blade. If your jigsaw is from the era where U-shank was the norm—or it has a universal clamp—this drops in and locks up fine. On my older DeWalt saw with a clamp screw, installation was uneventful and the blade seated square with no slop. If you’re using a modern jigsaw that only accepts T-shank blades, this won’t fit. Many newer pro-grade jigsaws have moved away from U-shank entirely, so check your shoe before you buy.

One practical note: U-shank saws that use a screw clamp don’t always offer tool-free blade changes. When you’re burning through a roughing blade on construction lumber, that means you may pause to swap blades with a screwdriver. It’s not a deal-breaker, but it’s less convenient than the quick-change T-shank systems.

Speed and cut quality

I ran this blade through 3/4-inch pine, 3/4-inch plywood, and construction 2x4s, with a mix of straight cuts and medium-radius curves. The blade is at its best with the orbital action on and the jigsaw set to medium to high speed. In that configuration, it eats through softwood at a pace you’d expect from a 6 TPI profile. The deeper gullets are not marketing fluff: chip evacuation is excellent, and the blade stays noticeably cooler and cleaner than generic coarse blades I’ve used. That helps maintain cut speed and reduces the smell of scorching, especially in pitchy SPF.

Cut quality lands in the “site-ready, not shop-ready” category. Edges on 3/4-inch plywood show tear-out on the top face, and the exit edge can splinter if you push too hard. The precision-ground teeth keep the kerf cleaner than a stamped coarse blade, but 6 TPI is still a blunt instrument if you’re aiming for paint-grade edges. For rough openings and concealed cuts, I had no complaints. For exposed faces, I’d switch to a finer blade in the 10–12 TPI range.

Tips that improved results:
- Use orbital action for fast, straight cuts; roll it back for curves or near the line to reduce blowout.
- Score the cut line with a utility knife on veneered plywood, or put masking tape over the line to reduce tear-out.
- Cut from the back side of plywood when the face veneer needs to stay clean.
- Don’t muscle it; feed pressure is the fastest way to add wander and tear-out.

Tracking and curves

On straight cuts, the blade tracks true when the shoe is pressed firmly and the feed is steady. In 2x lumber, I saw mild deflection when trying to follow long rips; that’s normal behavior for a jigsaw and a coarse blade. If you want perfectly square edges through thicker stock, a circular saw is the better tool.

On curves, a 6 TPI tooth set makes the blade grabby if you try to carve tight radii in thicker material. The trick is to ease off orbital action and keep a light hand. For medium-radius arcs in 3/4-inch stock, the blade was controllable and predictable. For very tight scroll work, this is the wrong blade; keep it on roughing tasks.

Durability and blade life

High carbon steel is the right material for fast cutting in softwoods, and it’s inexpensive, but it doesn’t have the heat resistance or edge retention of bi-metal or carbide. After a morning of deck board cutouts and trimming treated 2x4 blocking, the first blade was still cutting acceptably fast but had lost some bite. That’s par for HCS. The 5-pack format makes sense: swap when you feel yourself leaning on the saw.

A few durability notes from use:
- Avoid nails and screws entirely. One accidental kiss with a fastener will round the teeth and end the blade’s day.
- Resin build-up dulls the effective edge. A quick clean with a pitch remover or mineral spirits brings back performance.
- Don’t force the blade. Overheating HCS shortens life quickly; let the chip load and gullets do their job.

Where it excels

• Rough openings in subfloor, sheathing, and siding where speed matters more than finish.
• Site adjustments to framing and decking, including plunge cuts for vents and notching around obstacles.
• General-purpose softwood and sheet-good cutting with a U-shank jigsaw, especially older models still in service.

Where it’s not ideal

• Finish work on visible edges, veneered plywood, or laminates where a fine tooth count is needed.
• Cutting hardwoods or composites that generate more heat and dull HCS quickly.
• Any environment with hidden fasteners; for that, a bi-metal blade is a safer bet.
• Jigsaws that only accept T-shank blades.

Value and the 5-pack approach

I like coarse wood blades in a multi-pack. With rough cutting, especially on construction lumber and OSB, blades dull in bursts: they’re sharp right up until they aren’t. Having five identical blades means you can keep moving without babying a dull edge. Across the pack, quality was consistent; teeth were evenly ground and set, and the blades were straight.

Practical setup tips

• Set the orbital action high for straight, fast cuts; step it down near finish lines.
• Use full jigsaw speed in softwoods; reduce speed in plywood to manage tear-out.
• Keep the shoe firmly planted; if your saw has a larger base plate, use it to help the blade track true.
• Keep a magnet or pickup handy to check for hidden metal before cutting reclaimed lumber.

The bottom line

This DeWalt 6 TPI U-shank wood blade is exactly what it promises: a fast-cutting, coarse-tooth option for wood and sheet goods, optimized for older or universal-shank jigsaws. The precision-ground teeth and deep gullets make it a bit cleaner and cooler-running than generic coarse blades, but it’s still a rougher cut. High carbon steel keeps cost and vibration down, at the expense of ultimate longevity.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade if you need a dependable, fast-cutting option for softwoods and plywood on a U-shank jigsaw. It’s a solid choice for rough openings, jobsite adjustments, and any task where speed matters more than surface finish. If your work demands clean edges, you cut a lot of hardwood or composite, or your jigsaw only takes T-shank blades, look elsewhere—either to a finer-tooth profile, bi-metal, or a compatible shank system.