Rust-Oleum 7579838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, 15 Oz, Gloss Black

My shop keeps a small lineup of spray cans within arm’s reach. The gloss black from Rust-Oleum gets emptied fastest. This high‑performance enamel has become my steady fix for quick metal refurb jobs, outdoor fixtures, and the occasional “make it look new again” rescue in the field.

What you get in the can

This is an oil‑based, corrosion‑resistant enamel in a 15 oz can with a high‑output, any‑angle tip. In practice, that means:
- A durable coating that’s at home on ferrous and non‑ferrous metals, as well as wood, concrete, and masonry.
- Fast touch‑dry (about 15 minutes in good conditions) and the ability to recoat within an hour.
- Coverage that Rust‑Oleum rates up to 14 sq ft per can. In my experience, that’s realistic for two medium coats on small to mid‑size parts or a short run of fencing, but you’ll want extra on hand for larger projects.

The color here is a deep gloss black. It’s a classic, neutral finish that suits railings, brackets, fixtures, shop jigs, and trim pieces where you want a tough, clean look.

Application: consistent fan, higher material flow

The nozzle is the story. The high‑output tip atomizes evenly and sprays at any angle, including upside down—handy for undersides of railing, rims, or overhead brackets. The fan pattern is consistent and wide enough to cover quickly without striping. It does, however, lay down more material per pass than a standard consumer rattle can. A few tips from my use:

• Keep the can 10–12 inches off the work and move a bit faster than you would with a low‑output nozzle.
• Start and end each pass off the workpiece to avoid edge build‑up.
• Two to three light‑to‑medium coats with 5–10 minutes between passes give the best leveling without runs.
• Recoat within the 1‑hour window. If you miss it, let it cure per the label before stacking more coats.

I’ve had zero clogging as long as I clear the tip after use by inverting the can and spraying until only propellant comes out. If you skip that, you’re asking for spatter next time.

Prep matters more than most people think

On bare steel, I scuff to 180–220 grit, degrease with mineral spirits or a dedicated solvent, and follow with a compatible primer (self‑etching on bare metal if I want maximum bite). On aluminum or galvanized, an adhesion‑promoting primer pays dividends. Over existing coatings, I sand to a uniform dull finish, clean, then spray a test patch to make sure there’s no lifting.

Wood takes the paint well, but the high gloss accentuates grain and imperfections—use a sanding sealer or primer if you want a piano‑smooth look. On masonry and concrete, this is a good choice for fixtures, trim, and patch work, not heavy traffic surfaces.

Finish: deep gloss, professional look with care

On smooth, properly prepped metal, the finish levels nicely into a high‑gloss sheen that looks better than the average “budget” spray paint. The color depth is solid black, not smoky or brownish. Gloss is sensitive to conditions: temperature, humidity, and film thickness all matter. Too heavy a coat in humid air will knock the shine down and can cause solvent pop or orange peel. If you want a show‑car gloss on parts like wheels, I’ve had good results with two medium coats of this enamel, a proper flash, and then a compatible 2K clear coat after cure. For most shop and exterior fixtures, the enamel alone looks plenty sharp.

Because it’s gloss, it will showcase surface defects. If you’re chasing a uniform, rich finish, spend extra time on puttying, sanding, and dust control. A tack cloth before the final coat helps.

Durability and weathering

Outdoors, this enamel holds up well. On a steel handrail that sees sun and rain, the coating has resisted chalking and held its gloss months in. Impact resistance is respectable for an aerosol enamel; it won’t shrug off a direct hammer strike, but it doesn’t chip if you bump it with tools. On a mower deck guard (aluminum), the coating stayed intact after repeated cleaning and occasional abrasion, provided the substrate was properly primed.

Corrosion resistance is solid, particularly on primed metal. If you paint directly over lightly rusted steel, it will slow things down, but don’t skip the prep and expect miracles—mechanically remove rust and spot prime for best results.

Coverage in the real world

Rust‑Oleum’s 14 sq ft claim tracks with my usage if you’re applying two light‑to‑medium coats. A single 15 oz can will:
- Coat a short run of fence or a medium‑sized metal gate latch and hinges, with some left.
- Cover a set of small brackets, hardware, and a couple of shop fixtures.
- Put two coats on a single 17–18" wheel face if you’re careful; four wheels will take multiple cans.

If you’re painting large, flat surfaces or complex parts with lots of angles, buy an extra can. The high‑output tip moves paint quickly, and you’ll use more material on edges and inner corners.

Compatibility and layering

• Primers: Works well over Rust‑Oleum’s own primers; self‑etching on bare metal yields the toughest system. Avoid mixing with unknown lacquer base coats without a test.
• Clear coats: You can leave it as-is. If you want more depth, a 2K urethane clear is compatible once the enamel has flashed and cured per the clear coat’s instructions. Stick to the recoat windows to avoid wrinkling.
• Plastics: Not its primary target. With an adhesion promoter, some rigid plastics are doable, but I don’t rely on it for polyethylene or polypropylene.

Working conditions and safety

Like most oil‑based aerosols, this has noticeable fumes and overspray. Use it outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area with a respirator rated for organic vapors, gloves, and eye protection. Ideal application temps are roughly 50–90°F with low humidity. Watch dew point—cool metal in warm, humid air can condense moisture and dull your gloss.

For cleanup, mineral spirits will take care of wet overspray; once cured, removal is mechanical.

What I like

• Reliable, even atomization from the high‑output any‑angle tip
• Fast touch‑dry with an easy recoat window
• Durable, corrosion‑resistant film that stands up outdoors
• Deep, consistent gloss black that looks professional with modest prep
• Minimal nozzle issues when you clear the tip after use

What could be better

• The high‑output tip makes it easy to over-apply; beginners may see runs until they adjust technique
• Oil‑based odor and VOCs limit comfortable indoor use
• Gloss black shows every surface flaw—prep time can exceed spray time
• Coverage claims are fair, but plan an extra can for larger or complex projects
• Full cure takes longer than “dry to touch”; don’t stress the finish the same day

Who it’s for

This enamel is an excellent fit for DIYers and pros who need a dependable rattle‑can solution for metal fixtures, railings, machinery guards, brackets, and outdoor hardware. It’s also a smart choice for shop jigs and wooden fixtures where toughness matters more than absolute grain fill. If you’re aiming for an automotive‑grade show finish or need low‑odor indoor coatings, there are better specialty options. For high‑heat parts (exhausts, grills), use a heat‑rated coating.

Recommendation

I recommend this Rust‑Oleum high‑performance enamel. The combination of a consistent spray pattern, any‑angle high‑output tip, fast recoat times, and a tough, weather‑resistant gloss makes it a reliable go‑to for metal and general shop work. It rewards good prep with a finish that looks sharper than most aerosols in its class and holds up outdoors. Buy an extra can if you’re tackling larger projects, respect the recoat window, and you’ll get results that punch above what most rattle cans deliver.