Bosch 5 pc. 6 in. 8/10 TPI edge reciprocating saw blades for metal demolition

Why I reached for these blades

I brought the Bosch Edge metal demo blades to a weekend job that looked straightforward on paper: remove a rusted tongue jack, lop off a few seized bolts, and trim back some angle iron on a utility trailer. It turned into an all-day metal workout with a lot of awkward positions and a tight clock. The 6-inch version of these blades became my default for most of the cuts, and I kept a 9-inch blade in the kit for reach around a fender. By the end, I had a solid feel for where these shine and where a different blade might be the better choice.

Design and specs that matter in the cut

• Progressive tooth spacing (8/10 TPI): Variable pitch is the big story here. The tooth profile transitions so it bites without chattering at the start of a cut and then clears chips efficiently once you’re into the material. That’s especially helpful on curved or round stock where wandering is common.
• Heat-resistant edge: The cutting edge holds up well under sustained use. It isn’t magic—you can still cook it if you crank the speed and lean on the saw—but it tolerates heat better than many general-purpose bi-metal blades I’ve used.
• Stout body: The blade stock is thicker than a lot of bargain blades. That pays off in straighter cuts and fewer “bananas” when you’re pushing on an angle.
• Sizes and packs: I used primarily the 6-inch blades for control. The line is also available in 9-inch, and you can buy them in 5-, 25-, or 200-packs. The universal shank fit my DeWalt recip with no drama.

On paper, these are built for metal demolition. In practice, that means fast, straight-enough cuts in steel with minimal fuss—not polished finishes. That’s exactly the lane they occupy.

Setup, fit, and first passes

The blades lock in securely and run true. I had the best results running the saw at moderate speed with firm shoe pressure against the work. The progressive teeth make it easy to “score” a starting groove with short strokes before committing to full travel. Once a kerf is established, the cut settles in quickly with very little vibration.

One quick note: the 6-inch length is the sweet spot for control and stiffness. The 9-inch is handy for reach and flush cuts, but you give up some rigidity and it’s easier to flex the cut line if you’re not careful.

Cutting performance on real materials

• Bolts and fasteners: I cut through several 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch carbon steel bolts, some with the threads mushroomed and rusted. The blades chewed through consistently in a matter of seconds once the groove was started. They don’t bite as aggressively as a coarse-tooth demolition wood blade (nor should they), but the pace is faster than a standard bi-metal metal-cutting blade.

• Angle iron and plate: On 1/8- to 3/16-inch angle iron, the blades tracked straight and resisted skating along the edge. The thicker body helps you steer accurately without springing the blade. Curves aren’t their strength, but for straight relief cuts they’re efficient and predictable.

• Pipe and tube: I made several cuts in steel pipe roughly Schedule 40. The variable pitch keeps the blade from hammering as it wraps around the curve. Clearing chips is good, and I didn’t notice glazing unless I over-revved the saw near the end of the cut.

• Sheet and siding: These are metal demolition blades, not sheet-metal finishers. They’ll absolutely handle siding, ductwork, and automotive body panels, but you need to lighten up on pressure and dial back speed to avoid grabbing thin stock. Expect a rough edge.

• Mixed materials and wood: They’ll cut wood, studs with nails, and composite backing when the job demands it, but that’s not where they excel. Compared with a dedicated wood demo blade, they’re slower and leave a rougher edge. Still, they’ll get you through when the cut crosses metal and wood.

Durability and heat management

I used a single 6-inch blade for the bulk of my trailer work: several bolts, multiple pipe cuts, and a handful of angle iron notches. It still had life left at the end of the day. The heat-resistant edge earns its keep when you keep your speed reasonable and let the blade work. Where I saw wear accelerate was when I forced the cut with high RPMs and side-loaded the blade in a tight corner. That’s operator error, but it’s a good reminder that technique matters as much as metallurgy.

In heavier, hardened materials (stainless fasteners, grade 8 hardware), the blade will cut, but feed rate drops and edge life shortens. If you’re planning a day of nothing but hardened alloy cuts, a dedicated carbide-tooth blade is a better choice. For general steel demolition, these hold up well.

Control and vibration

The combination of progressive teeth and a stout blade body reduces vibration noticeably. With the shoe planted, I could steer on layout lines and keep cuts square to the face. That stability is particularly valuable overhead or in a cramped bay where every bounce translates to fatigue. I didn’t see the “wandering start” that plagues many fine-tooth metal blades—score a shallow groove, lean in, and it stays on track.

Where they fit in a crew’s kit

Compared to a generic bi-metal metal blade:
- Faster starts and fewer stalls in round/curved stock
- Better tracking and straighter cuts in flat steel
- Longer life under heat, assuming reasonable technique

Compared to premium carbide demolition blades:
- Less expensive per blade and friendlier for mixed light-to-medium steel
- Not as durable on hardened alloys or thick stainless
- Smoother feel with less aggressive bite, which can be a plus for control

If you’re outfitting a crew that cuts steel daily—conduit, angle, brackets, automotive hardware—these are a solid “default” blade. The 25- and 200-pack options make sense for shops and field teams that burn through blades regularly. For the occasional DIY user, the 5-pack is a practical stock level that will last through multiple projects.

Practical tips from the cut

• Start slow, score a groove, then increase stroke and pressure once the teeth are seated.
• Keep the saw shoe tight to the work to control vibration and reduce tooth chatter.
• Use the 6-inch for most cuts; switch to the 9-inch only when you need reach or a flush trim.
• On thick stock, a dab of cutting fluid or a spritz of WD-40 helps with heat and chip clearing.
• Avoid side-loading the blade in a bind; it shortens life and invites crooked cuts.
• Let the blade cool between long cuts. It preserves the edge and keeps chips from welding.

The bottom line

The Bosch Edge metal demo blades earn their place for steel work that values speed, control, and reasonable longevity. They start cleanly, track straighter than most general-purpose metal blades, and hold up well under heat when used with a light, steady hand. They’re not the best choice for hardened stainless or for delicate sheet-metal finishes, and the 9-inch version trades some precision for reach. But for day-in, day-out demolition and modification of common steel shapes, they’re reliable and predictable.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades for anyone who regularly cuts mild steel in demolition or modification contexts—tradespeople, mechanics, and serious DIYers. Their progressive tooth design and thicker body translate into faster, straighter cuts with less vibration, and the heat-resistant edge gives you more work per blade. If your workload leans heavily toward hardened alloys or you need clean finish cuts in thin sheet, keep a specialized carbide or fine-tooth blade alongside these. For everything else in metal demo, this is the blade I’d grab first.