Skil 5/32 x 4 In. Carbide Tipped Masonry Drill Bit

Why I reached for this bit

I grabbed this Skil 5/32 masonry bit to drive a run of 3/16-inch concrete screws for electrical straps and to hang a ledger on a CMU wall. The 5/32 size is the common pilot for small concrete screws, and at 4 inches long with a 1/4-inch hex shank, it promised quick swaps between a hammer drill and an impact driver. On paper, it checks a lot of boxes: carbide-tipped cutting edges, dual flutes, a split-point tip to help starts, and compatibility with both rotary and hammer modes. I used it across brick, hollow and solid cinder block, and a section of cured slab to see where it shines and where it doesn’t.

Setup and compatibility

The hex shank seats positively in standard three-jaw chucks—no slip, even under hammer action—and obviously clicks right into an impact driver. If your primary masonry tool is an SDS-plus hammer drill, you’ll need a chuck adapter; this bit isn’t SDS. Skil lists a 1,500 RPM maximum, which is lower than the top speed of many modern drills. Keep the tool in low gear and let the hammer mechanism do the work. Running it faster generates heat quickly and shortens life.

The bit is clearly labeled, which sounds trivial until you’re fishing in a pouch full of gray masonry bits in bad lighting. The heat-treated shank held up to chucking and unchucking without rounding or galling.

Test materials and method

I used a variable-speed hammer drill in low gear for most of the testing and swapped to an impact driver for a few holes to judge real-world “grab-what’s-on-your-belt” use. Materials:

• Red clay brick (face and mortar joints)
• Standard CMU: hollow block webs and solid areas
• Poured 3,000–3,500 PSI concrete slab (older, fully cured)
• Ceramic wall tile over cement backer

For dust management and cooling, I vacuumed out deeper holes periodically and backed the bit out to clear flutes. For tile, I started slow, used light pressure, and misted the surface to control heat.

Drilling performance

• Brick and mortar: Starts were clean and predictable. The split-point geometry helped prevent skating on brick faces, which can be a nuisance with generic masonry tips. In mortar joints and softer brick, the bit cut quickly in hammer mode. I averaged 8–10 seconds per 1-1/2 inch hole. In straight rotary mode (no hammer), it still worked in mortar but slowed considerably in harder brick.

• Cinder block: In the hollow web, it was an easy, fast cut with good chip ejection. In denser portions of CMU, the pace slowed, but it remained manageable. No binding, and the dual flutes did an adequate job clearing dust as long as I backed out every 1/2 inch or so.

• Poured concrete: This is where performance diverged. In cured slab, even at proper speed and with hammer mode engaged, the bit cut noticeably slower than premium SDS-plus masonry bits (not a surprise) and slower than some higher-tier 1/4-hex masonry bits I’ve used. Expect 30–45 seconds for a 1-1/2 inch hole, with pressure and patience. Heat builds fast if you don’t clear dust regularly. If you hit hard aggregate, progress slows further. This is doable for a handful of anchors, but I wouldn’t choose it for a day’s worth of slab drilling.

• Tile: On glazed ceramic (not porcelain), the bit started with tape and slow speed without wandering much. Once through the glaze, it progressed acceptably. I wouldn’t pick it for porcelain; a dedicated spear-point glass/tile bit is a better call there. For tile over backer, two-step drilling (tile first, then hammer through the backer) worked best.

Accuracy and hole quality

The 5/32 size is commonly paired with 3/16 concrete screws, and hole sizing felt on spec. Anchors bit well with no spinouts in brick and block. Hole roundness was good, and the bit tracked straight in hammer mode. Starts are more controlled than with a blunt chisel-tip masonry bit—especially on smooth brick—so placing holes close to edges felt less risky. In slab, expect some minor fraying at the entry if you’re moving too fast; easing in at low speed helps.

Working length is something to note: while the overall length is 4 inches, the effective drilling depth (to the flute end) is shorter. For typical 1–2 inch embedments you’re fine, but if you need deeper holes, plan on stepping up to a longer bit.

Speed, heat, and dust

Staying under the 1,500 RPM ceiling matters. In hammer mode at low gear, chips evacuated well in brick and block. In concrete, fine dust accumulates quickly; back out often. The dual flutes are relatively narrow on a 5/32 bit, so it’s easy to overwhelm them if you try to “push through.” Short pecks extend life, keep temperatures down, and reduce the chance of glazing the carbide.

Durability and edge retention

Durability was mixed and very material-dependent:

• Brick and mortar: I got through a dozen holes before noticing a meaningful slowdown. Edge wear was present but manageable; sharpening small masonry bits isn’t practical, so life out of the box matters.

• CMU: Similar story, with a slight drop in speed after 8–10 holes in the denser parts of the block.

• Poured concrete: After 3–5 holes in cured slab, the cutting edges were noticeably dulled, and progress slowed. If you nick rebar or a particularly hard aggregate, expect the cutting edge to chip; that’s true of most small-diameter masonry bits, but this one seemed a little more sensitive than top-tier options.

The heat-treated shank didn’t twist, and I saw no shank rounding in chucks. The brazed carbide stayed intact under normal use, but it’s not a concrete marathoner.

Using an impact driver

Skil lists impact driver compatibility, and the hex shank certainly fits. In practice, an impact driver without a true hammer drilling mechanism is always a compromise in masonry. In brick and CMU webs, the bit worked acceptably with an impact driver if I let the tool pulse and didn’t lean on it. In poured concrete, progress was slow, and heat built quickly. If an impact driver is your only tool, this bit will get you through light-duty masonry, but a hammer drill remains the right match.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros needing a 5/32 pilot for occasional anchors in brick, mortar, and block
• Users who want a hex shank that swaps between an impact driver and a standard chuck
• Anyone who values clear labeling and decent starting precision on hard, smooth surfaces

Who should look elsewhere:

• Installers drilling dozens of holes into cured concrete or structural members
• Users working primarily with porcelain tile or encountering rebar regularly
• SDS-plus users who want maximum speed and bit life in concrete

Tips for best results

• Use a hammer drill in low gear and keep speed under 1,500 RPM.
• Clear dust every 1/2 inch of depth; don’t try to “one-shot” deep holes.
• Mark tile with tape, start slow, and avoid porcelain with this bit.
• Let the hammer action work; excess pressure only creates heat and wear.
• Avoid steel; if you suspect rebar, scan first or relocate the hole.

Pros

• Clean starts with controlled wandering, especially on brick
• Hex shank grips well in chucks and works with impact drivers
• Adequate debris evacuation for shallow-to-moderate holes
• Clearly labeled and easy to identify in a pouch

Cons

• Slower cutting and shorter life in cured concrete compared to premium options
• Sensitive to heat; performance drops if run above spec or without pecking
• Not ideal for porcelain tile or rebar-prone locations
• Effective drilling depth is limited by flute length for deeper anchors

Recommendation

I recommend this Skil 5/32 masonry bit for light-to-moderate duty in brick, mortar, and cinder block, especially if you value the convenience of a 1/4-inch hex shank and need a reliable pilot for small concrete screws. It starts cleanly, stays put on smooth faces, and handles anchor-count projects around the house or shop without drama.

I don’t recommend it as your primary bit for repeated slab work or heavy-duty drilling in cured concrete. In those scenarios, an SDS-plus setup or a higher-grade masonry bit will drill faster and last longer. If your workload is mostly anchors in brick and block with the occasional concrete hole, this bit earns a spot in the kit. If you’re facing a long day of drilling into hard concrete, step up to a more robust solution.