12 in. 80-Tooth Fine Finish Saw Blade

Features

  • Carbide-tipped teeth for finer cutting edge retention
  • 80 teeth, ATB (alternate top bevel) tooth configuration for fine finish cuts
  • Body slots to reduce vibration
  • Optimized tooth geometry for improved cut quality
  • Precision tensioning to increase stiffness and accuracy
  • Anti-stick coating to reduce friction and gumming
  • Thin kerf design to minimize material removal
  • Reinforced shoulder for impact resistance

Specifications

Blade Diameter 12 in
Number Of Teeth 80
Tooth Configuration ATB (alternate top bevel)
Arbor Size 1 in (manufacturer listing); some retailer listings show 5/8 in
Blade Material Carbide-tipped
Kerf 0.106 in
Color Black, Yellow
Applications Hardwood; Softwood; Trim; Sheet goods; Melamine; Non-ferrous materials; Plastic; Laminate flooring
Package Quantity 1
Returnable 90-Day
Notes Manufacturer marketing claims up to 3x life vs. a reference blade; includes patented body slot design and ToughCoat anti-stick coating

12-inch, 80-tooth circular saw blade intended for fine finish cutting. The blade uses carbide-tipped teeth and is designed with body slots and tensioning to reduce vibration and maintain stiffness. It is suitable for cutting wood and similar sheet materials and is sized for large-diameter circular saw applications.

Model Number: DWA11280

DeWalt 12 in. 80-Tooth Fine Finish Saw Blade Review

4.8 out of 5

Why I reached for this blade

A good finish blade is one of the easiest upgrades you can make to a miter saw or radial arm saw, especially when you’re chasing crisp miters and ready-to-finish edges. I’ve been running the DeWalt 12-inch 80T blade on a 12-inch sliding compound miter saw for trim, built-ins, and a few runs of composite decking fascia. Over several projects, it’s become clear where this blade shines, where it’s merely adequate, and what setup helps it perform at its best.

Setup, fit, and first impressions

The blade I tested has a 1-inch arbor and dropped onto my 12-inch miter saw without adapters. If your saw uses a 5/8-inch arbor, verify compatibility and use a proper bushing; a loose or ill-fitting ring will introduce runout and undo what the blade is designed to deliver. Out of the package, the plate was flat and the tensioning felt right—no warble when spun by hand, and no hiccups on the first power-up. The anti-stick black coating looks like a gimmick, but it does keep pitch from baking on as quickly, which matters if you’re cutting resinous pine or a lot of composite trim.

At 0.106 inches, the kerf is on the thinner side for a 12-inch blade. That’s a plus for underpowered saws and for reducing waste, though thin plates demand decent technique to avoid deflection on wide crosscuts.

Cut quality on wood trim and hardwood

On primed MDF base and crown, the blade produces the kind of cut you want for paint-grade work: near-burnished edges with very light feathering on the exit if you push too fast. On prefinished poplar and oak casing, miters were tight with no fuzzing on the long grain. Crosscutting 8/4 maple offcuts for test pieces (not what this blade is intended for, but a useful stress test), feed rate became critical—push too hard and you can feel the plate start to protest. Ease up, and it tracks fine with a glassy surface.

The ATB (alternate top bevel) geometry is tuned for crosscuts and trims, and it shows. This is not a ripping blade; if you’re trying to plow through thick hardwood along the grain, you’ll build heat and increase the chance of deflection. For trim, face frames, and furniture parts that fit within a miter saw’s comfort zone, it delivers.

Sheet goods and melamine

Veneered plywood and melamine are where finish blades are really judged. With a zero-clearance throat plate and a backer board, the DeWalt 80T blade left prefinished maple ply nearly chip-free on both faces—good enough to go straight to edge-banding. On melamine shelving, I got clean top-face cuts and minor pinprick chipping on the exit side when I rushed. A scoring pass (raise the workpiece, skim the surface 1/16-inch deep, then complete the cut) eliminated that. If you expect perfect melamine cuts without a zero-clearance insert, backer, or scoring, you’re asking a lot of any ATB blade. Use the right setup and this one rewards you with crisp edges.

Composites, plastics, and light metals

I used the blade on composite decking fascia and PVC trim. Cuts were smooth and didn’t melt or gum, which I’ll credit to the thin kerf and coating. The anti-stick finish noticeably reduces smear compared to uncoated plates, and cleanup is easier.

For non-ferrous work, I tested on a couple of 1/16-inch aluminum thresholds. With a slow feed and firm clamps, the blade handled it acceptably, leaving a slight burr that cleaned up with a pass of a file. If you’re doing a lot of aluminum, a dedicated TCG (triple-chip grind) non-ferrous blade is still the better choice. But for occasional pieces, this blade can pinch-hit.

Vibration, noise, and accuracy

The laser-cut body slots and tensioning aren’t just brochure language—they help. On wide crosscuts with the slider fully extended, the blade ran smoothly with low vibration. The saw naturally gets louder under load, but pitch stayed consistent without the harsh ringing you get from cheaper plates. Most importantly, the blade tracked without wandering when I respected feed rate. On delicate miters, I got best results by letting the blade come to full speed, easing into the cut, and holding the work tight with a clamp. Combine that with a zero-clearance fence/insert, and tearout becomes rare.

Feed rate, power, and kerf considerations

Thin kerf is a balancing act. At 0.106 inches, this blade makes efficient cuts and puts less load on the motor—great for cordless or lighter-duty 12-inch saws. The trade-off is that ham-fisted feeding can cause slight deflection on ultra-wide crosscuts or in dense hardwoods. My practical takeaway: cut on the slow side of comfortable and avoid twisting the saw head mid-cut. The blade rewards a steady hand with flat, polished edges.

Durability and maintenance

The carbide tips held up well through several trim jobs, two built-in cabinets, and a round of composite fascia. I checked the teeth after an accidental brush with a brad head buried in trim; the reinforced shoulder design likely helped—only the tiniest nick, and cut quality didn’t nosedive. The coating staves off pitch buildup notably longer than a raw plate, but I still recommend a periodic clean with blade cleaner rather than scraping; keeping the teeth free of gunk makes more difference than people think.

I didn’t see any new vibration creep in with use, which suggests the plate tensioning is doing its job. As with any finish blade, storage matters—hang it, don’t stack it in a drawer where the carbide can chip.

Where it can fall short

  • Extremely brittle moldings and face-veneered stock can show a whisper of chipping without proper support. A zero-clearance insert and a backer board solve most of it; for worst-case melamine, consider a scoring pass.
  • Aggressive feed on wide sliders can encourage slight deflection. Slow down and let the teeth work.
  • If your saw has a 5/8-inch arbor, you’ll need a proper, tight-fitting bushing. Sloppy adapters are a recipe for runout and poor results.

None of those are unique to this blade, but they’re worth mentioning because technique and setup genuinely determine whether a finish blade meets expectations.

Who will get the most from it

  • Finish carpenters and remodelers who primarily crosscut trim, casing, and hardwood parts on a 12-inch miter saw.
  • Cabinet installers cutting face frames and veneered ply on site with a miter saw.
  • Deck builders needing clean edges on composite fascia and PVC trim.
  • DIYers upgrading the stock blade for projects where sanding every cut edge isn’t an option.

If you rip a lot of thick hardwood or do heavy non-ferrous work, this isn’t your one-blade solution. Pair it with a dedicated rip blade for the table saw and a TCG non-ferrous blade if aluminum is a regular thing.

Practical tips for best results

  • Install a zero-clearance throat plate and fence on your miter saw.
  • Clamp delicate work and approach the cut with a slow, steady feed.
  • For melamine and brittle veneers, add a backer or make a shallow scoring pass.
  • Keep the blade clean; pitch buildup masquerades as “dull.”
  • Confirm arbor size and use a quality bushing if you’re adapting from 1 inch to 5/8 inch.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 12-inch 80T blade for finish-focused work on a 12-inch miter saw. It delivers consistently clean crosscuts in hardwoods and trim, handles sheet goods well with proper support, and stays sharp through a sensible amount of work. The thin kerf and anti-stick coating make it efficient and low-maintenance, while the tensioned plate and body slots keep vibration in check. It’s not a cure-all—technique and setup still matter—but as a primary finish blade for wood, composites, and occasional plastics, it earns a spot on the saw. If you pair it with good workholding and a zero-clearance setup, you’ll get the refined, ready-to-assemble edges this category promises.



Project Ideas

Business

Custom Picture Frame Service

Offer made-to-order frames with precision miters and premium hardwoods. Market fast turnarounds and museum-quality joints thanks to the 80T blade’s clean crosscuts, and upsell splined miters, floating frames, and oversized formats.


Melamine Cabinet Component Cutting

Provide chip-free cutting of melamine and laminate panels for DIYers and small cabinet shops. Deliver accurately sized shelves, cabinet sides, and closet system parts where veneer edges stay intact, reducing edge-banding rework.


Pre-Mitered Trim Kits

Measure, cut, and deliver ready-to-install crown, casing, and baseboard kits. The fine-finish blade ensures tight, paint-ready miters and smooth cut faces, saving contractors and homeowners jobsite time and waste.


Slat Wall & Acoustic Panel Production

Manufacture decorative slat wall and acoustic panels using veneered MDF or hardwood slats mounted to felt or plywood. Clean edges and thin-kerf efficiency improve yield and surface quality, enabling premium pricing and repeat orders.


Acrylic/Aluminum Sign Blank Cutting

Serve local sign makers by cutting acrylic, polycarbonate, and aluminum composite panels to size with polished edges. Promote minimal chip-out and ready-to-print surfaces, plus batch discounts and just-in-time delivery.

Creative

Gallery-Grade Picture Frames

Build hardwood picture and art frames with near-invisible miters. The 80-tooth ATB blade leaves crisp, tear-out-free edges on oak, maple, and veneered moldings, so joints close tightly with minimal sanding. Add spline or key inlays for strength and a decorative accent.


Segmented Turning Blanks

Cut precise wedges and rings for bowls and vases. The fine-finish, thin-kerf blade minimizes material loss in exotic hardwoods and keeps segment faces burn- and chip-free, producing tight glue lines and balanced rings ready for the lathe.


Parquet Wall Art Panels

Create geometric parquet mosaics from contrasting hardwoods and melamine offcuts. Clean, chip-free cuts let you assemble diamonds, herringbone, or starburst motifs that require little cleanup before glue-up and finishing.


Slatted Headboard or Acoustic Panel

Fabricate veneered MDF or hardwood slats with clean edges and consistent widths, then mount them to a backing with felt for an acoustic touch. The blade’s anti-chip performance on sheet goods keeps veneer and melamine faces pristine.


Inlayed Boards with Metal/Plastic Accents

Cut crisp channels and strips in hardwood, then inlay aluminum or acrylic accents for cutting boards, coasters, or trays. The blade’s compatibility with non-ferrous and plastic materials produces smooth mating edges for a seamless, modern look.