EXTEND-A-REACH Light Bulb Changer Attachment Kit // Light Bulb Grabber Fits All Extension Poles with Standard ACME Thread with Suction Cup, Light Bulb Removal Tool, Microfiber Cloth and Basket

I stopped hauling a ladder through the house after I tried the Extend-A-Reach bulb changer kit. Between high ceilings, awkward pendants, and recessed cans tucked above a stairwell, replacing bulbs used to be a chore I’d put off for weeks. This kit turned it into a predictable, low-drama task I can do from the floor with a standard extension pole.

What’s in the kit

You get five attachments: two suction cups (2.5" and 3.25"), a wire-style basket, a broken-bulb remover, and a microfiber cloth. The heads screw onto any extension pole with 3/4" ACME threading—think painter’s poles or many window-cleaning poles. The suction cups cover the common sizes and profiles: the smaller cup handles standard A19 bulbs or smaller floods; the larger cup is ideal for BR30/40 floods and larger globes. The basket is for irregular shapes or finishes that don’t hold suction well, and the broken-bulb remover is a simple press-in tool for extracting an Edison-base bulb when the glass is gone. The microfiber cloth is basic but handy for a quick wipe of dust and fingerprints once the replacement is in.

Build-wise, the heads feel sturdier than the generic single-cup changers I’ve used. The pivot joint has a simple tension mechanism (tightened with a wingnut), which lets you set an angle and keep it. That matters when you’re 15–20 feet up and don’t want the head flopping around as you line up with a socket.

Setup and compatibility

Threading was straightforward on my 3/4" ACME painter’s pole: screw on, snug the joint, and go. The “universal” claim is mostly accurate for threaded poles—if your pole uses a proprietary snap-lock or press-fit system, you’ll need an adapter. Before you buy, check what your pole uses: you want a male 3/4" ACME thread. If you have that, you’re set.

One practical note: the pole is not included. That’s standard for most bulb changer heads, but it’s easy to miss. If you need to reach 20–25 feet, invest in a stiff, locking-twist pole; the flex of a cheap pole is more limiting than this kit.

Performance in the real world

• Recessed floods in a two-story entryway: Using the larger suction cup, I replaced multiple BR30 bulbs at roughly 18–20 feet. The cup held reliably after a firm press and quarter-turn “set.” A small pre-twist to break the bulb loose helps; then it spun out smoothly. The pivot stayed put and didn’t rotate under torque.

• Oversized globe over an island: The larger cup conformed well and, surprisingly, held on a slightly convex face. Because globes can be heavy, I tightened the pivot more than usual and took it slow. The cup never slipped, and the re-install was as controlled as you can get on a pole.

• Pendant on a chain: The pivot joint is the difference-maker here. I angled the head to meet the bulb face straight on, pressed, and rotated without fighting the sway of the fixture. A ladder would still be faster if you’ve got multiple pendants to service, but for one-off replacements, this approach was efficient.

• Standard A19 bulbs: The smaller suction cup worked as advertised. On bulbs with a matte or textured coating, suction is inherently weaker; that’s where the basket comes in.

• Textured or dusty finishes: Suction cups don’t love dust or texture. A quick tap with the microfiber cloth can improve adhesion on a dusty face, but if the finish is truly textured or the bulb’s surface is small, I switch to the basket. I sometimes add a rubber band around the bulb or a strip of painter’s tape along the basket fingers for extra bite.

• Broken bulbs: The press-in remover is simple and effective on standard E26 bases when the glass is gone but the metal base remains. Press it into the base and rotate gently. It’s not a demolition tool—if the base is mangled or fused, you’ll still want pliers (with the power off). For typical “glass broke at the neck” situations, it’s exactly what you need.

• GU10 and twist-lock styles: If the face is flat and accessible, the suction cups can rotate a GU10 to release. But if there’s a retaining ring or the bulb is recessed behind a small bezel, you’ll still need to remove the ring by hand. This is a limitation of bulb type, not the kit.

Where this kit doesn’t shine is appliance bulbs in enclosed spots—microwaves and some oven hoods have small housings and clip-on covers that you have to reach by hand. Likewise, fully enclosed fixtures with small openings don’t give the cups or basket enough surface area to grip. For wide-open high fixtures, recessed cans, and pendants, this kit is in its element.

Handling and learning curve

There’s a small technique curve with suction cups on a pole:

• Press the cup firmly, slightly off-center, then twist to seat it. A gentle push as you turn increases adhesion.
• Keep bulbs cool. “Temperature-resistant” cups are nice, but hot glass reduces suction and increases risk.
• Set the pivot tension so the head doesn’t droop under the bulb’s weight, but not so tight you fight it as you align. Once you’ve dialed that in, the head stays predictable.

The basket requires a bit more finesse. It’s best for smooth bulbs that suction won’t hold, or for gently snugging a bulb as you start threads during installation. I wouldn’t rely on the basket alone for very heavy bulbs without adding friction (rubber band or tape), but for common A19/BR bulbs it’s reliable.

Weight at the end of the pole is minimal; even with the basket, the head doesn’t add much. The limiting factor at height is your pole’s rigidity and locking mechanism, not the changer.

Durability and maintenance

The materials feel robust for a light-duty tool: cups are supple without being flimsy, the pivot hardware hasn’t loosened over time, and the threads haven’t stripped under normal use. I store the cups face-up so they don’t deform, and I occasionally wipe them with a damp cloth to keep dust off—clean cups adhere better. The included microfiber cloth is just okay; I replaced it with a thicker one for fixture cleanup.

The brand backs the kit with an extended three-year warranty, which is reassuring for something that will probably sit in a closet until you need it—and then absolutely must work.

Value and what sets it apart

I’ve used cheaper single-cup changers that handle only one bulb type and have floppy pivots. This kit is still budget-friendly but adds versatility with two cup sizes, the basket, and the broken-bulb tool. That matters because bulb shapes vary wildly across a home: recessed floods in a living room, decorative globes over an island, standard bulbs in a garage, and the occasional broken base that’s an accident waiting to happen.

The pivot joint that actually holds tension is the unsung feature here. Many heads pivot too freely; this one locks at practical angles, which makes alignment faster and safer.

Caveats and tips

• Check your pole threading. You want a 3/4" ACME threaded pole or an adapter if your pole is proprietary.
• Don’t attempt hot bulbs. Let them cool; your grip and the suction will be better.
• For textured/rough bulb faces, go straight to the basket and add a rubber band or painter’s tape for extra friction.
• Recessed fixtures with retaining rings may require removing the ring first. The cups can’t pull a bulb past a bezel it can’t clear.
• Appliance bulbs in tight housings are still a hand job—this kit isn’t a magic wand for enclosed spaces.

The bottom line

The Extend-A-Reach bulb changer kit does exactly what I want a reach tool to do: remove the ladder from most bulb swaps, handle a variety of bulb shapes, and stay predictable at height. The two suction cups cover the majority of residential bulbs, the basket fills the gaps, and the broken-bulb remover saves you from risky, one-handed plier work on a ladder. The pivot holds its angle, the cups grip confidently on clean, smooth glass, and the kit threads onto standard poles without fuss.

I recommend this kit for homeowners and facility managers who deal with high ceilings, recessed cans, and pendants. It’s not the solution for every bulb in a house—appliance bulbs and tightly enclosed fixtures still require hands-on work—but for the common, hard-to-reach bulbs that cause most headaches, it’s effective, versatile, and thoughtfully built.