Dreyoo 4 Pieces Set Light Bulb Changer, Suction Cup and Cage Changer for Incandescent, Floodlight, Broken Bulb and Recessed Lights, Compatible with Standard Extension Pole, Pole Not Included

Why I reached for a bulb changer

The week I moved into a house with 12–16 foot ceilings, I realized my ladder wasn’t going to cut it for routine lighting maintenance. Rather than dragging a tall ladder through the house or improvising something unsafe, I picked up the Dreyoo bulb changer kit and paired it with a standard threaded extension pole I already own. After several months of use across recessed cans, outdoor floods, and one unfortunate broken incandescent, I have a good sense of where this kit shines and where it struggles.

What’s in the kit

Dreyoo bundles multiple heads and a few thoughtful accessories:

• A 2.25-inch silicone suction cup for flat, smooth-faced bulbs (think BR/PR-style recessed and flood lamps)
• A cage-style changer with eight spring steel fingers and silicone touch points for “bottle” shaped bulbs
• Two rubber-tipped extractors for broken incandescent and candelabra bases
• A thumb screw with an embedded steel nut to lock heads to the pole tip
• An internal steel pin that keeps the suction cup from rotating under torque
• A release string with a metal clasp to trigger suction release
• A small fiber cleaner for dusty lenses and trims

There’s no pole in the box; you’ll need a standard painter’s/extension pole with the usual threaded tip.

Setup and compatibility

Attaching any head is straightforward. The embedded steel-nut thumb screw bites onto the pole tip securely, and the steel anti-rotation pin in the suction cup head is a nice touch—without it, the cup can spin uselessly when you start to twist a stubborn bulb.

In my testing, the kit played well with:

• Standard E26/E27 incandescent/LED A-bulbs (using the cage-style or standard bulb head)
• BR30/BR40 recessed lights and flat-faced LED floods (with the suction cup)
• PAR-style outdoor floods depending on lens texture (cage or suction)
• Broken incandescent and candelabra bases (with the rubber extractors)

It’s not designed for CFL spirals, bayonet or GU10 twist-lock bases, heavily textured lenses, or spherical globes where a flat suction surface is absent.

Real-world use

Recessed lights (12–16 feet)

For clean, flat-faced BR30/BR40 bulbs in my living room cans, the suction cup was the easiest option. I lightly dampened the cup, seated it squarely, and put gentle upward pressure to ensure a good seal. The anti-rotation pin paid off: the bulb released with steady torque and no wobble. Installing the new bulb was equally controlled—seat, turn, then tug the release string to drop suction. When I kept the face dust-free, it worked quickly and predictably.

On older PAR bulbs with prismatic or textured faces, suction was less reliable. In those cases, switching to the cage head brought better results. The silicone touch points over the spring fingers are gentle enough to avoid scuffing while still providing grip, but you do need to keep the cage aligned straight to avoid slippage.

Outdoor floods under the eaves

I replaced several PAR38 floods on a 14-foot soffit. Some had been overtightened and showed a bit of oxidation at the gasket. The cage head was the right call here. With the pole kept vertical and the cage squeezed evenly around the bulb, it lifted and turned them out. On one especially stubborn bulb, the cage slipped once; resetting for a perfectly square approach solved it, but this is where you feel the limitation of any pole-mounted changer—if a bulb is seized, you’ll eventually need a ladder and two hands.

Standard A-bulbs over stairs

The kit’s standard-bulb solution (the cage works well here, too) handled A19 LEDs over my stair landing. I pre-fit the cage on a spare bulb at ground level to get a sense of finger tension, then went up with confidence. Threading the new bulb back in is the fiddly part: a light touch helps you find the threads without cross-threading while working at a distance.

Broken bulb extraction

I tested the rubber-tipped extractor on a garage fixture with a broken incandescent. Power off. Eye protection on. The rubber tip compressed into the metal base and bit enough to back the shell out smoothly. It’s not glamorous, but it beats pliers over your head. The smaller extractor worked on a candelabra base, though patience matters—press firmly, then apply slow, even torque.

Build quality

For a homeowner-grade kit, the materials are sensible. The silicone cup feels durable, the spring fingers have enough tension without being overly stiff, and the silicone pads prevent scuffing. The plastic hubs aren’t heavy-duty pro-shop parts, but nothing felt flimsy in normal use.

A note on the hardware: the thumb screw holds securely with moderate hand torque. It’s effective, but don’t crank on it like a lug nut. Over-tightening can chew up the threads over time. Tighten until snug, then stop.

The release string and clasp are simple but helpful. Attach it before you raise the pole. It’s easy to forget and awkward to remedy once the bulb is overhead.

Limitations and gotchas

• Suction needs a clean, smooth surface. Textured or dusty lenses won’t hold well. Wipe surfaces with the included fiber cleaner when you can.
• Very small bulbs can be tricky. A15 and petite specialty bulbs don’t sit as securely in the cage, and there’s no good suction target.
• Long-reach control is a skill. At 16 feet, any pole gets wobbly. The trick is to keep the pole vertical, use slow, controlled torque, and resist the urge to “muscle” a stuck bulb from an angle.
• Weathered outdoor bulbs that are corroded or overtightened may defeat any changer. If the cage slips repeatedly, don’t force it—you’ll just mar the bulb. Use a ladder and hand tools.
• Not for CFL spirals, GU10/bayonet fittings, or enclosed fixtures where the trim blocks access.

Tips for best results

• Pre-fit at ground level. Test the cage tension on a spare bulb so you know how it should feel.
• Lightly dampen the suction cup. A hint of moisture improves grip on smooth faces.
• Keep everything square. Seat the head straight onto the bulb, apply gentle upward pressure, then twist.
• Use the release string. Clip it before you extend the pole so you can drop suction cleanly after installation.
• Work cool and dry. Don’t attempt hot outdoor bulbs or wet lenses.

Value and use cases

If you own a compatible pole, this kit makes high-ceiling bulb changes safer and faster than hauling a large ladder through the house. It covers the common cases—recessed cans, indoor floods, standard A-bulbs—and includes a credible solution for broken bases. For routine homeowner use a few times a year, the build and functionality hit the mark. Facilities teams and pros who fight seized outdoor fixtures daily will want heavier-duty, specialized heads, but for general residential maintenance, this is the right balance of capability and cost.

The bottom line

The Dreyoo bulb changer kit has earned a permanent spot with my pole attachments. The suction cup and anti-rotation design make quick work of clean, flat-faced recessed bulbs, the cage head handles most bottle-shaped floods and A-bulbs, and the broken-bulb extractors save a dreaded chore when glass gives way. It’s not a cure-all—textured lenses, very small bulbs, and seized outdoor lamps expose its limits—but with a bit of technique it dramatically reduces ladder time.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit to homeowners with high ceilings, recessed lighting, or outdoor floods who already own a standard threaded extension pole. It’s a practical, safer alternative to climbing a ladder for most bulb changes, provided your fixtures are clean, smooth-faced, and not severely overtightened. If your lighting is mostly textured or specialty bulbs, or you often deal with corroded fixtures, you’ll need additional tools—or a ladder—to fill those gaps.