HauSun Sliding Patio Door Handle Set with Key Cylinder and Mortise Lock, Full Replacement Handle Lock Set Fits Door Thickness from 1-1/2" to 1-3/4", 3-15/16” Screw Hole Spacing, Reversible Design

Why I tried this handle set

My patio slider came with a flimsy, non-keyed pull that never inspired confidence. I wanted a straightforward, budget-friendly way to add exterior locking and tighten up the action without replacing the entire door. That’s what drew me to the HauSun handle set: it promises a full replacement kit, reversible handedness, and a keyed exterior, sized for the common 3-15/16-inch screw spacing and 1-1/2 to 1-3/4-inch door thickness. On paper, it ticks the right boxes for DIYers. After installing and using it, I have a clear sense of where it shines and where it asks a bit more of the installer.

Design and compatibility

The HauSun handle set is a complete package: interior handle, exterior pull with a keyed cylinder, 45-degree mortise latch, thumb latch, and three lengths of machine screws. It’s non-handed (reversible), so you can set it up for left- or right-opening doors. The keyed exterior pull is the main upgrade—being able to lock from outside makes everyday use much simpler and improves basic security over a latch-only setup.

The kit targets the most common retrofit scenario: doors with 3-15/16-inch mounting holes and a standard mortise pocket. I installed it on an aluminum-framed slider; the footprint lined up with the original drilling. If you’re replacing an older handle set, check:

• Screw hole spacing (center-to-center)
• Door thickness (1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch)
• Mortise orientation (this kit includes a 45-degree latch common to many doors)

If your door already has a compatible mortise latch that’s in good condition, you can reuse it. The included latch is a nice insurance policy if the old one is sloppy or worn.

Installation experience

Plan for a moderate DIY job. The core steps are simple—remove old handles, seat the mortise latch, align the new interior/exterior pulls, and fasten—but there are a few details that make or break the result:

• Tailpiece sizing. Both the interior thumb latch and the exterior key cylinder use metal tailpieces (spindles) that meet inside the mortise. They must both engage the latch at the same time. Out of the box, they’re intentionally long to cover the full thickness range. You’ll need to cut them to length.
• Cutting tools. A rotary tool with a cutoff wheel (Dremel) makes quick, clean cuts. A fine-tooth hacksaw and a vise will also work, just plan to file the edges smooth so they don’t burr or bind.
• Dry fitting. Before final assembly, I paired the inside lever and the outside cylinder in the door, marked where the tailpieces met, then trimmed a bit shy of that mark. The goal is simultaneous engagement without the pieces bottoming out against one another.
• Screw alignment. The through-bolts are fully threaded and are inserted blind into the opposite handle. To tame this, I started both screws a turn or two in the receiving handle first (off the door), backed them out, then assembled. During the final install, I kept light pressure on the exterior pull while “feeling” the screws into the threads. It avoids cross-threading and a lot of frustration.
• Handle standoffs and fit. On my door, the interior handle’s raised bosses met a tight recess around the factory holes. A few light passes with a flat file on the standoffs ensured a flush fit without distorting the door skin. If your door has generous clearance, you may not need this step.
• Strike alignment. After the handle went in, I confirmed that the latch fully projected into the frame’s keeper without dragging. A millimeter or two of vertical or lateral misalignment can make the lock feel finicky. Adjusting the keeper position solved it.

Total time, working carefully, was about an hour. If you’ve never cut tailpieces before, take your time—cut long, test, trim again. That’s the difference between a smooth, solid action and a bind.

Fit, finish, and operation

Once installed, the HauSun handle set feels sturdier than the stock hardware it replaced. The die-cast pulls are rigid, and the interior lever action is positive without excessive play. The keyed cylinder turned smoothly after a drop of light oil, and the latch throws fully with a clean click. There’s no rattle in the handle, and the exterior pull is easy to grip even with wet hands.

The included screws come in three lengths; that’s more useful than it sounds. I ended up using the middle length to get full thread engagement without bottoming out. The white finish on my set was even and matched the door well. It’s not luxury hardware, but the overall look is tidy and unassuming.

Noise and feel matter on sliders. With the tailpieces cut correctly and the keeper aligned, the thumb lever has a crisp, repeatable motion, and the key engages reliably from outside. If the key binds or won’t pull out in a locked position, that’s a sign the cylinder isn’t seated correctly or the tailpiece is a hair long—both are fixable with small adjustments.

Security and everyday use

This is a convenience and baseline security upgrade over non-keyed pulls. The ability to lock from the yard is the headline feature and works as advertised. The mortise latch engages fully and resists casual prying in the way you’d expect from a decent sliding door lock. As with all slider hardware, overall security still depends on the door frame, the keeper, and the glass. If you’re after high security, consider pairing the handle set with a secondary pin lock or a foot bolt.

One small note: the exterior pull does not have a thumb lever; it’s key-to-lock, key-to-unlock. That’s normal for this style of hardware, and it keeps the outside profile clean.

What I liked

• Broad compatibility for the most common screw spacing and door thickness
• Reversible design covers both left- and right-handed doors
• Keyed exterior adds meaningful convenience and basic security
• Smooth operation once set up; no slop in the lever or cylinder
• Three screw lengths included for a more precise fit
• Full kit with a replacement mortise latch if your old one is tired

What could be better

• Instructions are too thin for first-time installers; more diagrams and cut length guidance would help
• Tailpieces require cutting; scoring marks or a template for common thicknesses would reduce guesswork
• Fully threaded through-bolts are fussy to align blind; a short unthreaded lead-in would make assembly easier
• The latch and cylinder benefit from lubrication out of the box

Tips to get a first-try success

• Measure twice: confirm 3-15/16-inch hole spacing and door thickness before you start
• Pre-fit and mark both tailpieces with the handles held in place; cut a little long, test, then sneak up on the final length
• Deburr the cuts with a file so the pieces seat cleanly
• Start the screws in the receiving handle off the door first, then assemble
• Check the keeper alignment after install; adjust so the latch fully projects without scraping
• Add a drop of light oil to the latch and cylinder during assembly

Who it’s for

• DIYers comfortable with basic metal cutting and careful fitting
• Homeowners upgrading from a non-keyed pull who want exterior locking without replacing the door
• Anyone with a compatible mortise pocket and standard 3-15/16-inch spacing on wood, aluminum, or vinyl sliders

Who should look elsewhere? If you’re expecting a truly plug-and-play swap with no cutting or alignment, or you don’t have the tools to trim metal, a pre-sized, brand-specific handle set for your door model may be a better bet (often at a higher price).

The bottom line

The HauSun handle set delivers exactly what I was looking for: a cost-effective, keyed replacement that tightens up a tired sliding door and makes locking from outside simple. It asks more of the installer than the box suggests—namely, careful tailpiece trimming, patient screw alignment, and a bit of keeper tuning—but the payoff is a solid, smooth-operating handle that feels secure in daily use.

Recommendation: I recommend this handle set to intermediate DIYers with compatible doors who can spare an hour and have a cutting tool on hand. It’s a good value upgrade that meaningfully improves convenience and basic security. If you’re a first-timer without a Dremel or hacksaw, or you want a guaranteed no-cut install, consider a door-specific OEM kit instead.