Kscjdg Patio Sliding Door Keeper／Hook Style Latch／E 2124 Latch Lock Replacement Pella,Micron 1200 Series,Viking Doors and Other Sliding Glass Doors,Extruded Aluminum (White)

Why I reached for this keeper

I had a sliding patio door that had been relying on the old “stick in the track” trick for far too long. The original keeper was missing after a pet-door experiment, and the handle’s hook latch had nothing to bite into. I picked up the E 2124 keeper to restore a proper lock, expecting a straightforward replacement on a Pella-style door. It ended up being exactly that: a simple, sturdy part that does what it’s supposed to do without any fuss.

What it is

This is a hook-style keeper—a fixed strike plate the door latch hooks onto—made from extruded aluminum and finished in white. It’s intended to pair with common sliding patio door handle sets found on Pella, Viking, and Micron 1200–series doors, among others. In practical terms, if your interior handle has a hook that swings out as you turn the thumbturn or key, this keeper provides the pocket and faceplate the hook locks into. It ships with four mounting screws and installs with basic tools.

Build and finish

The body is a clean extrusion with a crisp rectangular profile and a nicely formed pocket for the latch hook. The white finish is consistent, with no sags or thin spots, and blends well with standard white vinyl and painted aluminum frames. Edges are smooth, and there were no burrs to catch clothing or fingers. Compared with some stamped steel keepers I’ve handled, this one feels more rigid; the walls of the pocket don’t flex when the hook hits home. That rigidity translates to a tighter, more repeatable lock-up and less of the mushy feel you sometimes get with thin-strike replacements.

The included screws are serviceable—standard Phillips head with a finish that matches the plate. For inland installs they’re fine. If you live near salt air, I’d consider swapping them for stainless screws in the same size to extend the life of the fasteners and keep the heads from spotting over time.

Installation experience

On my door, the process was quick. Here’s what worked well:

• I closed the sliding panel and put a strip of painter’s tape on the jamb where the keeper would sit.
• With the handle in the locked position, I marked the centerline of the latch hook on the tape, then turned the handle back to unlocked.
• I aligned the keeper so the pocket’s center matched that mark, making sure the face sat flush against the jamb and the opening was square to the latch path.

Two of the four mounting holes on this keeper are slotted, which gives you a little horizontal adjustment to fine-tune engagement. The other two are round. I started the two slotted holes first, lightly snugged the screws, tested the lock for positive engagement, then set the final two screws. Total install time, including a couple test-lock cycles, was about 10–15 minutes with a #2 Phillips screwdriver and a drill for pilot holes.

On a second install I did on an older frame, I had to elongate one of the screw holes slightly with a small round file because the existing hole spacing was just a hair off. That’s not unusual when you’re swapping between different keeper patterns. If you run into the same thing, remove the keeper, adjust the hole, and re-mount. Don’t try to force the screws at an angle—it’ll only compromise holding power.

Tips to make the job smoother:
- Pre-drill pilot holes if you’re going into wood or composite jambs to avoid splitting.
- If you’re mounting to aluminum, use a sharp bit and go easy—let the bit do the work.
- Keep the keeper’s pocket square to the latch path. A slight twist can cause the hook to scrape and feel gritty.
- After final tightening, lock and unlock several times to confirm positive latching without excessive play.

Fit and compatibility notes

This keeper is aimed at Pella, Viking, and Micron 1200–type sliders, and that’s where it shines. The profile and pocket depth are well suited to common hook latches used on those platforms. For other brands, it can still be a good match, but take five minutes to confirm:

• Pocket alignment: The hook should enter the keeper pocket without dragging on the top or bottom.
• Throw depth: The hook should fully engage the pocket with the handle in the locked position; if it sits shallow, you’ll feel a loose lock.
• Hole spacing: If your existing holes don’t line up, the two slotted holes provide adjustability, but not infinite relocation.

If your door has a very different keeper footprint or a latch that’s unusually high or low, you may need a keeper with elongated slots on all four holes or a model matched to your specific handle set. For most mainstream sliders in the Pella/Viking family, this one lands in the right place.

Performance and daily use

The difference between a stick-in-the-track “lock” and a proper hook-and-keeper system is night and day. With this keeper installed, the latch engages with a clean, positive click, and the panel has virtually no fore-aft wiggle when locked. That tight lock-up helps with both security and drafts: fewer micro-gaps and less rattle on windy days.

I also appreciate the way the extruded pocket resists deformation. With thinner stamped keepers, repeated slams can splay the strike opening over time, which leads to sloppy lock engagement. The E 2124’s thicker aluminum pocket has held its shape through plenty of daily cycles. The white finish has stayed intact, and wiping it down during routine door cleaning is all it’s needed.

It’s worth noting that this is not a multi-point lock upgrade; it’s a solid single-point keeper. If someone needs higher security, pairing it with an auxiliary foot bolt or a secondary sliding-bar lock is a smart move. But as a replacement for a missing or worn keeper in a standard residential setup, it’s exactly what you want.

What could be better

• Adjustability: Only two slotted holes means limited wiggle room if your existing holes are substantially off. Four slotted holes would make retrofits even easier on oddball frames.
• Hardware options: Including stainless screws in the package would be a small but welcome bump for longevity in damp or coastal environments.
• Documentation: A simple diagram with recommended mounting height relative to the latch centerline would help first-time DIYers.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth knowing if you’re planning a swap on an older or non-standard frame.

Who is it for?

• Homeowners with Pella, Viking, or Micron 1200–series sliders needing a direct keeper replacement.
• Landlords or property managers who want a simple, durable part that installs fast and feels secure.
• Anyone tired of makeshift locking methods and looking to restore the door to how it was designed to function.

Bottom line

The E 2124 keeper is a simple, well-made part that does the job right. The extruded aluminum body feels sturdier than many budget alternatives, the white finish blends cleanly with common door frames, and the included screws make it a one-box solution. Installation is straightforward, with enough adjustability to cover small misalignments, and the resulting lock-up is tight and confidence-inspiring.

Recommendation: I recommend this keeper for Pella, Viking, and similar sliding patio doors. It’s a solid, no-nonsense replacement that installs quickly and restores proper locking without drama. If you anticipate significant hole misalignment or have a very uncommon door profile, plan for a bit of extra fitting—or choose a keeper with fully elongated slots. For most standard setups, though, this is the right part at a sensible cost, and it brings a proper lock back to your slider the way it should be.