Skil 10-Piece Hex Shank Carbide Hammer Drill Bit Set

Why I reached for this set

Mounting a ledger on a block wall and running a handful of anchors into an older garage slab gave me a good excuse to put the Skil hex‑shank masonry set through its paces. I wanted a compact kit I could throw in the drill bag, with the flexibility to run in a hammer drill on concrete and swap over to an impact driver for lighter brick and block work. On paper, the carbide tips, split-point starts, and 1/4-inch hex shanks checked the boxes. In practice, the set largely lived up to that promise—with some clear limits worth knowing.

Design and build

Each bit is a brazed carbide-tipped masonry cutter with dual flutes and a heat-treated steel shank. The 1/4-inch hex is the star of the show: it locks solidly in a drill’s three-jaw chuck and clicks straight into an impact driver’s quick-change collet. The hex also stops that annoying shank spin you sometimes get with worn chucks and round-shank masonry bits.

Skil includes a compact, interlocking case with a clear lid and labeled slots. The labels are accurate and legible, and the bits don’t rattle loose in transit. It’s the kind of case you actually keep using instead of tossing in a drawer.

The size spread is practical for anchors and tap-in fasteners:
- 5/32 inch (x2)
- 3/16 inch (x3)
- 1/4 inch (x3)
- 5/16 inch (x1)
- 3/8 inch (x1)

Those duplicates in 3/16 and 1/4 inch match common plastic anchors and Tapcon pilot sizes, which is where most homeowners and many tradespeople live day to day.

Skil lists a 2,000 RPM ceiling. That tracks with best practice for masonry: let the percussion do the work in hammer mode, keep speed moderate, and prioritize steady pressure and debris clearing.

Starting and accuracy

The “split-point” language is unusual on masonry bits, but these tips do a good job of centering on brick faces and glazed ceramic. On block and brick, I could start holes cleanly with minimal skate. On ceramic tile (not porcelain), I used tape and a light angle to start, then squared the drill; the tip bit in without wandering. That’s not always the case with generic masonry bits, which can skate for the first second or two and chip the surface.

Performance in different materials

• Brick and mortar: This is the sweet spot. In a 20V hammer drill, the 3/16 and 1/4-inch bits cut quickly with clean hole walls. The dual flutes clear dust well; a quick pecking motion and an occasional pull-out kept progress steady. Over a few dozen holes, wear was noticeable but not dramatic.

• Cinder block (CMU): In block, especially hollow cells, the bits were efficient. I actually switched to an impact driver for a series of small pilot holes on a ladder where one-handed control mattered. An impact driver won’t match a hammer drill in concrete, but for block and mortar the hex-shank convenience is real. Keep speed moderate, avoid bearing down, and you’ll get tidy holes with less blowout.

• Concrete slab and poured wall: This is where expectations matter. In a 15-year-old garage slab, the 1/4-inch bit got me through multiple anchor holes, but heat built quickly and cutting slowed after a few holes. In older, harder concrete and aggregate-rich pours, the 3/8-inch bit is simply a workout for a standard hammer drill. Compared with an SDS-plus rotary hammer and SDS bits, progress is slower and edge wear shows up sooner. That isn’t a knock on this set so much as the reality of hex-shank masonry drilling in tough concrete.

• Tile: On ceramic backsplash tile, the smallest sizes started cleanly with low speed and light water for cooling. I wouldn’t pick this set as a porcelain tile solution, but for occasional ceramic holes it’s workable.

Durability and wear

Carbide tips live and die by heat. The dual flutes help, but you still need to clear dust and avoid excessive RPM. Following the 2,000 RPM guideline, letting the hammer action do the cutting, and pausing to cool the bit made a noticeable difference in edge life. The shanks themselves held up well; the heat-treated bodies didn’t twist or snap under normal use.

That said, this is not a set I’d choose for all-day anchor setting in old structural concrete. For that, I want SDS-plus bits in a rotary hammer. Used as intended—light to medium masonry work across brick, block, and newer concrete—these bits deliver respectable life. The inclusion of duplicates in the most-used sizes is smart; by the time you feel a 3/16 or 1/4-inch bit slowing down, there’s a fresh one in the case.

Technique tips that made a difference

• Use hammer mode for concrete. Rotary-only will glaze the carbide and overheat the bit.
• Stay below 2,000 RPM. Keep pressure firm but not excessive; let the percussion chip the material.
• Peck and clear. Every 1/2 inch or so, back out to clear dust. It reduces heat and speeds the cut.
• Cool the tip. A brief pause or a spritz of water on tile and brick extends life.
• Pilot smartly. For 3/8-inch holes in tough concrete, a quick pilot at 3/16 or 1/4 inch helps keep the larger bit on track.
• Impact drivers are for lighter duty. They’re convenient for block and brick, but they won’t replace a hammer drill in concrete.

Compatibility and handling

The hex shanks make these bits genuinely versatile. In a hammer drill’s chuck, they run true with minimal wobble. In an impact driver, they’re fast to swap and stay locked. If you’re moving around a jobsite doing a mix of anchors, clamps, and brackets, the quick-change advantage is significant. I also like that the shanks resist spinning under load; that saves both the bit and your chuck.

The case and organization

This is a small thing that matters over time. The interlocking case snaps securely and the clear lid makes size selection quick. Labels are accurate and durable, and the trays hold bits firmly. I could drop this in a drawer and know the bits won’t migrate into a mess.

What I’d change

• Add a second 5/16-inch bit. It’s a common size for sleeve anchors, and you only get one.
• Consider a 7/32-inch addition. It’s not a must, but it fills a useful gap between 3/16 and 1/4 for certain fasteners.
• Include a short technique card. A quick reminder on RPM, hammer mode, and pecking would help occasional users get more life out of the bits.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and DIYers who need a reliable set for brick, block, and occasional concrete holes.
• Trades who want a compact, hex-shank kit for punch-list work, service calls, and mixed-material installs where carrying an SDS rotary hammer isn’t practical.
• Anyone who appreciates the convenience of using the same bits across a hammer drill and an impact driver for light-duty masonry tasks.

If you routinely drill dozens of 3/8-inch holes in old concrete, you’ll be happier stepping up to an SDS-plus system. This set is better suited to light and medium-duty anchors, with the versatility that comes from the hex shank.

Recommendation

I recommend this Skil hex‑shank masonry set for light to medium masonry work across brick, block, and newer concrete. The carbide tips cut cleanly, the dual flutes clear dust effectively, and the hex shanks make the set genuinely versatile between hammer drills and impact drivers. The organization is thoughtful, and the included sizes match the fasteners most people use. Just pair the set with good technique—moderate speed, hammer mode in concrete, and periodic cooling—and you’ll get solid performance.

If your work leans heavily toward old, hard concrete or larger-diameter anchors day in and day out, invest in an SDS-plus rotary hammer and dedicated SDS bits. For everyone else who needs a capable, compact masonry kit in the drill bag, this Skil set earns its spot.