Myard Universal Hidden Deck Fastener Clips for Grooved Edges of Composite Decking Boards to Joists, 1/4" Gap Spacing, with Square Driver Bit

Why I picked these clips

I rebuilt a composite deck this season and wanted a clean, fastener-free surface with predictable board spacing. I went with the Myard hidden deck clips because they promise a consistent 1/4-inch gap, include hardened, black-coated screws, and ship with a square driver bit in every 100-pack. I used them across grooved composite boards on treated lumber joists—standard 16-inch on-center framing with a couple of double-joist seams. My goals were simple: neat lines, stable boards, and a process that wouldn’t turn into a fussy, time-consuming dance.

What stands out

• Consistent 1/4-inch spacing: The clips do a solid job of holding a uniform gap. If you like the look and drainage of a quarter-inch, these make it brain-dead easy.
• Simple installation cadence: Insert clip at each joist, start the screw only halfway, drop the next board, then final-tighten once a few rows are set.
• Forgiving plastic body: The UV-resistant nylon has a little flex that helps when your joists aren’t perfect.

There’s nuance, though, and it’s mostly about torque control. The clips rely on the screw head seating on the top of the nylon body. If you over-drive, you can deform the clip or, in worst cases, punch the screw head into the plastic. If you under-drive, the board can feel a touch loose. Get the torque right and the system works well.

Installation experience

The learning curve is short. I pre-staged a handful of clips along the joists to speed things up, then followed Myard’s instructions:

1) Set a clip into the groove over each joist and start the screw only halfway so the “wings” sit level with the joist.
2) Slide the next board tight against the wings, making sure both grooves fully capture the clips.
3) Repeat across the run, then come back to final-tighten the screws only until the head rests on top of the clip—no sinking.

A variable-speed impact driver on a low setting worked better for me than a drill/driver with a clutch. Joist density varies, and an impact makes it easier to “kiss” the head to the clip without overshooting. I did a quick test pass on scrap to dial in feel before committing. If you only have a drill/driver, go slow and stop as soon as the head seats.

Pro tip: Check that every clip sits flush with the joist before setting the next board. If a clip is tilted or riding high, you’ll fight the next board into place and risk misalignment.

Grip and feel underfoot

Once tightened correctly, the boards lock down without squeaks or perceptible play. I checked a few spots with a pry bar and was impressed by how securely the groove locks into the wings. The 1/4-inch gap provides good drainage and airflow; if you’ve ever dealt with leaf-litter slime between closely spaced boards, you’ll appreciate the extra clearance.

One caveat: these clips don’t correct for framing issues. If your joists are crowned or out of plane, the gentle flex in the nylon helps a bit, but you’ll still want to plane, shim, or sister joists to get the surface right before you start.

Materials and durability

The clip bodies are molded from UV-resistant nylon. Because they’re hidden, direct sun exposure is minimal, but edges do see light and heat. After install and a few hot days, I saw no creep or deformation. The wings didn’t take a permanent set when loaded properly.

The screws are hardened (class 12.9) with a black Dacromet-type coating. That coating is a good match for pressure-treated lumber and general outdoor use. For harsh coastal environments, I’d still lean stainless fasteners for the rest of the build; just know you’d be trading the included screws for a compatible head and thread, and you’d need to be very careful not to split the nylon with a different screw profile. For most inland installs, the stock screws make sense: strong, nicely coated, and a clean black look where you can see them at the edges.

Compatibility and fit

These are meant for grooved boards with a “C” opening of 0.15 inch or larger. In practice, that’s many composite brands and some grooved hardwood or PVC lines. I used them with two different composite profiles without modification. If your boards have shallow or unusual grooves, measure first.

The spacing is fixed at 1/4 inch. That’s ideal for drainage and thermal movement, but not every board manufacturer calls for a quarter-inch. If your brand specifies 3/16 inch or a variable gap by temperature, you’re locked into 1/4 with these.

Driver bit and ergonomics

Each 100-pack includes a 2.3 mm square bit. It fits well and reduces cam-out compared to Phillips. My nitpick: it’s not a size I can reliably replace at any hardware store on a Sunday afternoon. If you lose the bit, finding a perfect match may take an online order. I recommend buying a spare or two when you purchase the clips, or keeping a magnetic parts tray nearby so the included bit doesn’t walk away.

Because the screw head sits on the clip rather than countersinking into it, feedback through the driver is distinct. You’ll feel the head stop as soon as it meets the clip. Stop right there. If you don’t, you risk chewing into the nylon.

Speed and workflow

Compared with face-screwing and plugging, these clips are faster and produce a cleaner surface. Compared with some proprietary cam or wedge systems, they’re a touch slower because you need to mind torque and occasionally “massage” a board into the groove. Once you find a rhythm—clip, start, place, move—production speed is good. I averaged a few seconds per clip once set up.

Value

Price-wise, I’d call them mid-pack. You’re paying for convenience (included screws and bit) and a patent-backed design that works. There are cheaper options with thinner clips and softer screws; there are more expensive brand-specific systems that restrict you to a single board line. Myard lands in a practical sweet spot: broadly compatible, tidy spacing, and strong enough hardware to trust.

That said, budget accordingly. A decent-sized deck consumes clips quickly, and adding an extra box mid-project is common. I’d buy at least 10–15% more than your joist count math suggests to cover offcuts, mistakes, and layout changes.

Where they fall short

• Over-tightening is the enemy. If you’re heavy on the trigger, you can deform clips or push the screw head into the plastic.
• The 1/4-inch gap is non-negotiable. If your board spec calls for different spacing, these aren’t the right tool.
• The square bit size is uncommon. Lose it and you might be stuck until a replacement arrives.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they are real considerations that can slow or sour an install if ignored.

Tips for best results

• Use a variable-speed impact driver on a low setting and practice on a spare joist.
• Keep clips flush to the joist; tap them level before placing the next board.
• Final-tighten only after several rows are in; it ensures consistent spacing and makes tweaks easier.
• For starter and end boards, plan on face-fixing with color-matched screws or using a compatible starter clip system.
• Verify your board’s groove size (0.15 inch or larger) and manufacturer spacing guidance before committing.

Recommendation

I recommend the Myard hidden deck clips to DIYers and pros who want a clean, consistent 1/4-inch spacing on grooved composite or PVC boards without being locked into a brand-specific system. They’re easy to learn, hold boards securely when properly tightened, and include durable, coated screws that balance strength and corrosion resistance for most environments. Be honest about your driving habits—if you tend to over-torque, slow down and practice—or choose a metal-clip system if you want something more tolerant of heavy-handed installation. For the majority of deck builds on standard framing, these clips are a reliable, tidy, and cost-sensible choice.