Black & Decker Glass and Tile Drill Bit Pack of 3

Why I reached for these bits

I needed to put clean, small holes into unforgiving materials—wine bottles for a lights project, a bathroom mirror for clips, and a few glazed ceramic tiles for lightweight anchors. That’s the exact sort of work these 1/8-inch glass-and-tile bits from Black & Decker are designed for. They’re simple spear-point carbide-tipped bits on high-speed steel bodies, sold as a three-pack, and they fit any drill with a 3/8-inch or larger chuck. No frills, no mystery—just a straightforward consumable for delicate holes.

Build, geometry, and compatibility

The bits use a classic spear-point geometry with a small carbide cutting edge brazed onto an HSS shank. That geometry is ideal for “skating” less on glossy surfaces and nibbling through glaze or glass without shocking the material. The bits are slender—1/8 inch diameter—so they’re inherently flexible and don’t tolerate side loading. They’re also not impact-rated. If your go-to driver is a 1/4-inch hex impact, leave it on the bench. Use a variable-speed drill with a 3/8-inch or larger chuck and keep things gentle.

The pack of three is a practical choice. Even with careful technique and cooling, carbide spear-points on glass and glazed surfaces are consumables. The spares let you rotate bits as they dull or heat up.

Setup and technique that actually works

Most of the performance with these bits comes down to technique:

• Speed: Slow. I had the best control around 400–600 RPM on glass and mirror, and 600–900 RPM on ceramic tile.
• Pressure: Light, just enough to keep the tip engaged. Let the carbide do the work.
• Cooling: Essential. I used a dab of mineral oil for glass and a small water dam (plumber’s putty ring filled with water) on tile. Keeping the tip wet noticeably extended life and reduced chipping.
• Start: For glossy surfaces, painter’s tape keeps the tip from skating. On glass, I start at a shallow angle (about 20–30 degrees) to create a tiny divot, then level the bit.
• Support: Back the work. For bottles, I cradled them in a sandbag. For tile and mirror, I placed a piece of scrap wood behind the drilling point.
• Drill mode only. Never hammer. No lateral levering.

Follow that and you’ll dramatically reduce breakout and keep the bit alive longer.

Performance on glass, mirror, and tile

On wine bottles and other non-tempered glass, the bits produce clean holes—if you’re patient. With steady coolant and light pressure, I averaged roughly 15–20 minutes per hole through bottle glass. That isn’t fast, but it’s controlled. The spear-point kept the tip on target, and I had minimal chipping on the exit when I eased up in the last millimeter and supported the inside wall with a damp cloth.

On a bathroom mirror, the bit started easily through tape and cut a neat 1/8-inch hole for clip screws. Mirrors can be brittle; the slow speed and coolant were crucial. I stopped several times to cool the tip, which kept the carbide from bluish discoloration and premature dulling.

On glazed ceramic tile (non-porcelain), these bits are noticeably quicker. Glaze takes patience; once through, the clay body drills in a few minutes. I made half a dozen holes in 4x4 wall tiles for light-duty anchors with one bit before I felt cut rate dropping off.

Where these bits show their limits is dense porcelain tile and stone. They will mark the glaze, but cutting is slow and the tip wears quickly. If your project involves porcelain floor tile or quartz/stone, a diamond core bit is the better tool.

Hole quality and accuracy

At 1/8 inch, you’re making small, precise holes—good for pilot holes in tile, mirror clip screws, cable pass-through for micro lights, or pilot points you’ll enlarge later with a diamond core. The spear-point centers well, especially with tape, and I didn’t see significant wandering once the tip bit in. Breakout on the exit side of glass is the main risk; easing off pressure and finishing with the lightest touch prevented chips in my tests.

Because these bits are long and thin, wobble can show up if your chuck isn’t tight or your drill has runout. A compact, low-speed corded or high-quality cordless drill with a true chuck helps. I wouldn’t use a right-angle attachment or anything with noticeable play.

Durability and bit life

These are budget-friendly, general-purpose glass/tile bits with carbide tips—not industrial diamond tools. In practice, durability was fair but not outstanding.

• Wine bottle glass: I got roughly 2–4 clean holes per bit before the tip dulled enough to slow progress substantially. Cooling and frequent pauses helped keep me toward the higher end of that range.
• Glazed ceramic tile: More forgiving. Expect 6–10 holes per bit in wall tile if you keep speeds modest and use coolant.
• Mirror: Similar to bottle glass—go slow, cool often, and don’t expect marathon life.

Once the spear-point dulls, cut rate drops dramatically and heat builds quicker, which accelerates wear. The three-pack mitigates this: rotate bits, keep them cool, and retire them before you force a glazed tip to do a job it can’t.

Usability quirks

A few notes from the bench:

• The 1/8-inch size is limiting. It’s perfect for small fasteners or pilot points, but many wall anchors and fixtures need 3/16 or larger final holes. You can use these to pierce glaze and then switch to a larger diamond bit for the final diameter.
• These don’t love dry drilling. A tiny dab of mineral oil or a water dam makes a big difference in both speed and edge life.
• If you feel the bit squeal, you’re pushing too hard or running too fast. Back off, cool down, and reset your angle.

Who they’re for

• DIYers making occasional holes in glass, mirror, or ceramic tile.
• Hobbyists drilling bottles or thin glass for craft projects where patience is acceptable.
• Someone who needs a small pilot hole on tile before stepping up to a diamond bit.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Pros drilling porcelain tile day in, day out.
• Anyone needing larger holes or faster production. Diamond core bits will save time and money over a long project.
• Users restricted to an impact driver or 1/4-inch hex chuck.

Safety reminders

• Never try to drill tempered glass—it will shatter. Bottles are often annealed, but if in doubt, don’t drill.
• Wear eye protection and gloves; chips are sharp.
• Support the work to avoid binding or rolling.
• Keep electrical tools away from standing water; use only small amounts of coolant and manage runoff.

Value

Considering the three-pack and the intended use, the value is solid for light-duty, occasional work. You’ll go through them if you have a long run of holes in glass, but that’s the nature of spear-point carbide on hard, brittle materials. For one-off projects or intermittent installations, the cost-to-result ratio is reasonable. If you’re drilling dozens of holes, budget for multiple packs or step up to diamond tooling for speed and longevity.

Recommendation

I recommend these Black & Decker glass-and-tile bits for occasional, small-diameter holes in glass, mirror, and standard ceramic tile—especially when you’re prepared to go slow, use coolant, and treat the bits as consumables. They start predictably, produce clean results with proper technique, and the three-pack offers enough runway to finish typical DIY projects. I wouldn’t choose them for porcelain tile or production work; a quality diamond bit will outpace and outlast them there. But for careful, controlled drilling at 1/8 inch, they do the job reliably if you give them the patience they require.