MyyYiTar 3" Powder Actuated Fasteners Round Nails .30" Head Diameter and 1" Washer with Red Flute Drive Pins for Powder Fastening & Power Framing Systems 100 pcs

Why I reached for these pins

Powder-actuated fastening lives or dies on consistency. If a pin doesn’t seat cleanly, mushrooms, or pulls through the work, you lose time and confidence. I put the MyyYiTar 3-inch pins with 1-inch washers to work across a week of small jobs—furring out a masonry wall, fastening light-gauge track on a cured slab, and hanging a couple of conduit straps—specifically to see how they behave in common, non-structural tasks where powder-actuated fasteners make sense.

Design and sizing that actually matches the spec

These are straightforward .300-inch head, .145-inch shank drive pins with a red flute and loose 1-inch washers. The dimensions matter because they determine both tool fit and holding behavior:

• .300-inch head: seats properly in standard powder-actuated tool noses without sloppy play.
• .145-inch shank: a common diameter for light- to medium-duty pinning into concrete or masonry.
• .315-inch flute: provides a snug friction point for the washer, keeping it from rattling down the shank during handling.

The washers slide on easily and stay put well enough to position quickly. The 1-inch diameter is the right move for wood and thin-gauge steel—more bearing area means far less risk of pull-through, which is where a lot of powder-driven fastenings fail.

Tool and load compatibility

I ran these in a well-used Ramset single-shot tool and a .27-caliber strip-fired model; the pins seated and ejected without hang-ups. The red flute doesn’t correspond to power level—just the pin’s identifier—so choose your loads based on substrate hardness. As always, start low and step up until you get consistent embedment without crushing or blowing out the surface.

• In 3,000–3,500 PSI slab, yellow loads handled most wood-to-concrete fastening through 2x material.
• For 16–20 gauge track to slab, yellow worked in softer areas; I stepped to red in denser spots.
• In hollow CMU webs, I got better results pre-locating over the web and using lower power to minimize blow-out.

If you’re new to this: aim for roughly 3/4 to 1-1/4 inches of embedment in sound concrete. With a 3-inch pin and 2x material, you’ll be on the deeper side of that range; for thin materials, this length can be excessive. More on that trade-off below.

Real-world performance on concrete

Fastening 2x furring strips to a cured slab, the MyyYiTar pins drove consistently flush, with the washer distributing load so the wood fibers didn’t crush. I checked a handful of set pins with a pry bar—no movement without splitting the wood, which is what you want. In a denser, aggregate-rich patch of slab, I did see minor surface spalling on two shots with red loads; stepping back to yellow eliminated it.

Key observations:
- The 1-inch washer meaningfully improves hold by spreading the load—helpful on softer stock and uneven masonry faces.
- The shanks stayed straight on mis-hits. I had one under-powered strike that didn’t fully seat; a second shot wasn’t necessary—tapping it with a hammer wasn’t advised, so I pulled and re-shot in a new spot. No bent spaghetti nails in the box, which is not always the case at this price point.

Light-gauge steel track and fixtures

For interior non-load-bearing track to slab, these pins are competent but long. Through 20-gauge track, I was embedding well over an inch into concrete—solid holding, but flirting with over-penetration in very hard sections. I would normally step down to a 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" pin for this application. That said, if 3-inch is what you have on hand, use the lowest load that achieves full seating and respect edge distances to avoid breakout.

On conduit straps and hangers, the washer was handy for bite and coverage, but again the length is more than you need. Keep that in mind when working near slab edges or control joints. I kept spacing generous and stayed a safe distance from cracks with no issues.

Steel-to-steel claims, with a caveat

The packaging suggests steel-to-steel and steel-to-concrete applications. I’d temper expectations here. For light-gauge to thicker steel, with the right tool and load, you can achieve serviceable fastening. But for true steel-to-steel work—especially on structural members—use purpose-built pins and follow manufacturer approvals. A 3-inch concrete-oriented pin isn’t my choice for that category.

Accuracy, consistency, and surface finish

Seating was predictably flush in concrete and CMU webs. The washers are stamped cleanly enough to avoid sharp burrs that chew into painted surfaces; still, I wouldn’t drive them directly onto a finished face without a protection layer. The pins themselves show uniform shank finish—no visible seams or roughness that would add friction in the tool.

I did not see any head mushrooming, which suggests the hardness is appropriate for this shank diameter and typical substrates. That’s important—soft pins deform, hard pins shatter. These sat in the Goldilocks zone for my use.

Safety and best-practice notes

Powder-actuated tools are firearms by another name. A few quick reminders that matter with 3-inch pins:

• Match the load to the substrate; start low and step up.
• Maintain proper edge distances (at least 3 inches from slab edges and 2 inches from cracks or holes).
• Don’t attempt to re-drive a partially seated pin.
• Wear eye and hearing protection and follow your tool’s certification and local codes.
• Be mindful of embedment—too deep can cause spalling or hidden cracking over time.

Where these pins shine—and where they don’t

Best uses I found:
- Wood to sound concrete or masonry where the 1-inch washer prevents pull-through.
- Interior furring strips, sill or bottom plates on non-structural walls (where code allows powder-actuated fasteners).
- Light-gauge track or strapping to slab, provided you manage power and spacing carefully.

Less ideal:
- Thin sheet materials where a shorter pin would be safer and faster.
- Exterior or corrosive environments—there’s no stated corrosion rating, so I treat these as interior-only.
- Structural connections and steel-to-steel fastening that require tested, approved pins.

Value and availability

With 100 pieces per box, the cost-per-fastener is typically far lower than brand-name equivalents. What surprised me is that I didn’t feel like I was trading reliability for savings. Consistency from pin to pin was on par with more expensive options I’ve used. If your work is primarily interior and non-structural, the budget advantage makes sense.

Final thoughts

The MyyYiTar 3-inch pins with 1-inch washers do the fundamentals right: they seat cleanly, grip well in concrete with appropriate loads, and the washer materially reduces pull-through in wood and thin-gauge steel. The standard .300 head and .145 shank play nicely with common powder-actuated tools, and I had no feed or ejection hiccups.

They’re not an all-in-one solution. The 3-inch length is overkill for some tasks, and without a corrosion spec I wouldn’t run them outdoors or in treated-lumber environments that demand specific coatings. For steel-to-steel, I’d reach for specialized pins.

Recommendation: I recommend these pins for interior wood-to-concrete and light-gauge-to-concrete fastening where a 1-inch washer is beneficial and 3-inch length provides appropriate embedment. They offer consistent performance at a budget-friendly price, provided you select the right power level and respect best practices. If you routinely fasten thin materials, work near slab edges, or need exterior-rated hardware, choose a shorter, coated, or approved alternative.