DWIL Water Based Wood Stain - Multiple Finishes, Fast Drying, Indoor and Outdoor Furniture, Wood Paneling, Cabinets and More, Low Odor ＆ Non-Toxic

First impressions and setup

The first thing I noticed opening the DWIL stain was what I didn’t notice: odor. I used it on a couple of small indoor projects—a pine wall shelf and an oak side table—on a chilly day with the garage door mostly down. The low smell made it easy to work without a respirator, which is not something I can say about most oil-based stains. The consistency is thin and even, like a typical water-based stain, and it mixes quickly with a short stir. I decanted a small amount into a disposable cup instead of dipping from the bottle to avoid contamination and to control how much I was loading on my brush.

For reference, I tested the Black Walnut color across three woods: red oak, hard maple, and construction-grade pine. I prepped all surfaces to 180–220 grit and vacuumed the dust before wiping with a clean, slightly damp cloth.

Application and working time

The DWIL stain goes on smoothly with either a brush or a lint-free cloth. My best results came from brushing with the grain to lay an even film, then immediately wiping with a cloth. The working time is short—much shorter than oil-based stains. On my shop bench (around 68°F, average humidity), I found I had about 60–90 seconds before it began to tack. Past that point, trying to rework an area could leave smudges or uneven patches.

If you’re used to leisurely wiping after five or ten minutes, adjust your expectations. Work in small sections, keep a wet edge, and wipe quickly. On larger surfaces like a tabletop, I switched to wiping on with a cloth only, which gave me better control and helped avoid lap marks. A very slightly damp wiping cloth (water, wrung nearly dry) bought me a bit more open time without diluting the color too much.

Expect raised grain, as with any water-based product. A quick scuff-sand with 320 grit after the first coat knocked the fuzz down, and the second coat went on much smoother.

Color and coverage

Black Walnut reads as a medium-to-dark brown with a neutral-to-warm cast, depending on the species:

• On red oak, it produced a classic walnut look with strong grain definition and a relatively neutral tone.
• On maple, the color ran slightly cooler and more uniform, with less contrast between early and latewood.
• On pine, I saw a noticeable warmth that pushed toward reddish-brown, and blotchiness where the growth rings soaked more aggressively.

If you’re working with softwoods (pine, fir, poplar), pre-condition the surface. A water-based wood conditioner or a light washcoat of dewaxed shellac (1 lb cut) evened things out dramatically for me. On hardwoods, I didn’t need conditioner; as long as I kept the application consistent and wiped promptly, the color laid down evenly.

Coverage from the 8.5 oz bottle was better than I expected for a concentrated water-based stain. With mostly single-coat applications, I covered a 6-foot shelf, a small side table, and several test pieces with some stain left in the bottle. If you’re staining a dining table, doors, or a room of trim, go in knowing this size is really meant for small projects or touch-ups.

Depth and build

The stain is marketed for one-coat coverage, and that held true for hardwoods. On oak and maple, a single coat provided a convincing walnut tone and a natural matte sheen. A second coat deepened the color quickly. Because the product dries fast, I waited about 45 minutes before recoating, then sanded lightly to flatten any raised grain.

On pine, I preferred two lighter coats over one heavy one to avoid blotches. The second coat can become tacky if you overwork it; wipe on and off with confidence, and resist the urge to chase streaks as it starts to set.

Finish and topcoating

The DWIL stain dries to a matte, low-sheen look that highlights grain without gloss. It’s a stain, not a finish, so you’ll need a topcoat for protection. I tested both a water-based polyurethane and an oil-based wiping varnish over it. After letting the stain sit overnight, both topcoats went down cleanly without lifting or color bleed. The water-based poly preserved the cooler walnut tone; the oil-based topcoat warmed it slightly.

For floors or high-wear areas, I’d absolutely topcoat. For outdoor use, pair it with an exterior-rated clear finish that contains UV protection; the stain itself won’t prevent sun fade or moisture movement.

Dry time and recoat

Touch-dry in about 10–15 minutes was typical in my shop. I could handle and lightly sand within 30–45 minutes, and topcoat within a few hours. Humidity and temperature matter; in warmer, drier conditions, the open time shrinks, so plan your workflow accordingly. If you need more working time, a waterborne finish extender (used sparingly and mixed per its instructions) helps tame the pace.

Cleanup and safety

Cleanup is as simple as the label suggests: water and a drop of soap. Brushes, foam pads, and cloths cleaned up fast, which is a relief after years of mineral spirits. The low odor and non-toxic water-based formula make it a good choice for small indoor shops or apartment work, though I still wear gloves and maintain ventilation.

Value and use cases

The tradeoff with this product is size versus convenience. The small bottle is costlier per ounce than bulk stains, but you save time on drying and cleanup and you can stain indoors without lingering fumes. For small furniture, cabinets, trim, picture frames, or a one-off repair, it’s a smart pick. For a whole kitchen’s worth of doors or a deck, the bottle size alone makes it impractical.

Tips to get the best results

• Sand to 180–220 grit, then raise the grain with a damp cloth and sand lightly again before staining.
• On softwoods, use a water-based pre-stain conditioner or a very light shellac washcoat to reduce blotching.
• Work in small sections and wipe quickly to avoid lap marks.
• Keep a wet edge; avoid going back over areas that have started to set.
• Test on scrap from your project wood; the color shifts by species and sanding grit.
• If you need more open time, use a waterborne extender or a slightly damp wiping cloth.
• Let the stain dry longer than “just dry to the touch” before topcoating—especially with water-based polys.

Pros

• Very low odor and easy soap-and-water cleanup
• Fast drying with quick turnaround between coats
• Natural matte look that highlights grain
• Good coverage for small projects
• Plays nicely with both water- and oil-based topcoats after proper dry time

Cons

• Short open time can cause lap marks if you work too slowly
• 8.5 oz bottle isn’t economical for large surfaces
• Raises grain; a light scuff-sand between coats is necessary
• On softwoods, prone to blotching without a conditioner
• Color warmth varies by species; on pine it can skew redder than expected

The bottom line

I like the DWIL stain for what it is: a fast, low-odor, water-based stain that delivers a convincing walnut tone and a clean, matte finish with minimal fuss—provided you respect its pace. It shines on small to medium indoor projects where speed and air quality matter, and it pairs well with modern water-based topcoats. The short open time and softwood blotchiness mean it isn’t foolproof; beginners or anyone staining a large panel without help may find a slower, gel-style stain easier to control.

Recommendation: I recommend this stain for users who value low odor, fast turnaround, and simple cleanup, and who are comfortable working in smaller sections. It’s a great match for hardwood furniture, cabinets, and trim, and a reasonable option for outdoor pieces if you add a proper exterior topcoat. If you’re planning to stain large surfaces in softwoods—or you prefer a leisurely, oil-like working time—look elsewhere or be prepared to use a conditioner and practice on scrap first.