Skil Corded 7.5 Amp Variable Speed Reciprocating Saw

I reached for the Skil 7.5A recip saw to lop out a section of galvanized pipe during a bathroom demo, then kept it in hand to prune a few gnarly roots and flush-cut an old 2x sill plate. After several days of mixed cutting, it’s clear this is a straightforward, capable corded saw aimed at DIYers and light-to-medium duty jobsite work. It trades top-end power and bells and whistles for solid build, predictable behavior, and a price that’s easy to justify.

Build and setup

Out of the box, the Skil recip saw feels sturdier than its price suggests. The metal gear housing gives it a reassuring rigidity—no creak in the shell when you torque it, and the shoe assembly has minimal play. At 7.2 pounds, it’s lighter than many pro-grade cords, and the counterbalanced internals keep it from feeling nose-heavy. The included wood blade gets you cutting right away; a hex key rides along for shoe or housing maintenance, though you won’t need it for blade swaps.

The blade change system is tool-less: flip, insert, release. The mechanism is positive and springy, and once you learn the angle, blades seat reliably. A small note from my time with it: cheaper blades can have inconsistent shanks. If a blade won’t lock, check the tang design before blaming the saw. Pairing it with a quality demolition or bi-metal set immediately improved both fit and cut quality.

Ergonomics and controls

Skil uses a dial to govern speed rather than relying solely on a progressive trigger. You set the dial to match the material—slower for metal and PVC, faster for framing—and pull the trigger to run. I like this approach for repeat cuts because it prevents accidental over-speeding thin metals. The trade-off is less nuanced speed ramping mid-cut compared to a fully variable trigger. If you often “feather” the trigger to sneak into a cut, expect a small learning curve.

Grip shape is neutral and comfortable. The overmold isn’t too soft, which helps when your gloves are wet. The counterbalance does its job; the saw doesn’t skitter or buzz as much as basic homeowner models, and I finished long cuts without my hands tingling. Noise is on par for this class—loud under load, but not shrill.

Cutting performance

With 7.5 amps on tap, this saw isn’t trying to compete with the 12–15 amp monsters built for heavy demo. It’s best described as honest power: enough to chew through treated 2x stock, nail-embedded lumber with the right blade, EMT and galvanized pipe, and deck screws hiding in old railings. It’s especially comfortable on wood and PVC, where the motor maintains speed without an aggressive tendency to bog. In metal, a slower dial setting and a steady feed deliver clean, predictable cuts.

Two things stand out in use:

• The pivoting shoe. Keeping the shoe planted and rolling it through the cut makes a noticeable difference in stability and blade life. This shoe pivots smoothly and stays in consistent contact, which reduces chatter and helps you track a line.
• Low vibration for the class. Counterbalance systems can be hit or miss on budget saws; here it genuinely reduces arm fatigue and helps the blade stay engaged without bouncing. That translates to cleaner starts and less wasted stroke.

This model doesn’t advertise orbital action, and based on how it cuts, I’d say it operates in a straight reciprocation mode. The upside is smoother metal cuts and less tear-out in finish-adjacent wood; the downside is wood demolition isn’t as fast as high-amp saws with aggressive orbital drive. If your typical day is cutting out old window jambs, trimming PVC, or making accurate plunge cuts, the control is welcome. If you’re ripping through doubled-up LVLs all afternoon, you’ll want more amp draw and orbital.

Blade changes and compatibility

The tool-less chuck works cleanly with standard recip blades. Insert the blade with a firm push until you feel it seat; tug to confirm lock. Heat buildup after longer cuts didn’t seize the mechanism in my testing. As mentioned, blade quality matters—off-spec shanks can fail to seat. Stick with reputable brands for consistent fit.

A practical tip: let the saw do the work. Combine the dialed speed with the correct blade—6 TPI demolition for wood with nails, 10–14 TPI bi-metal for steel, and carbide for cast or cement board. With proper pressure and shoe contact, blades last longer and the Skil’s motor stays in its comfort zone.

Accuracy and control

Recip saws aren’t precision tools, but some are easier to guide than others. The Skil is stable enough that I was able to follow scribe lines for flush cuts and notch old framing without the blade walking excessively. The shoe’s ability to stay in contact helps, as does the relatively tame vibration. For plunge cuts, start with a shallow toe-in using the shoe as a pivot, then rotate in—again, the dial-based speed control prevents a jumpy start in thinner materials.

The only control quirk is the lack of on-the-fly micro-adjustment you get from a fully progressive trigger. If you depend on feathering speed within the same cut, you’ll miss it. For most home and remodel tasks where you set a speed and go, it’s a non-issue.

Durability and maintenance

The heavy-duty gear housing inspires confidence. I managed a few unintentional shoe bangs on concrete and didn’t knock anything out of alignment. Venting keeps the motor cool during long cuts, and I didn’t smell that “overheated windings” odor that telegraphs an overworked budget saw. Keep the chuck clean, occasionally blow out dust, and wipe the shoe. Beyond that, there’s very little to fuss with. My unit didn’t include a case, so plan on a soft bag or a slot in your toolbox.

What it’s good at

• Remodel tasks: cutting out old studs, trimming plumbing, window and door adjustments, and PVC work.
• Light demo: decking repairs, fence posts, and nail-embedded lumber in manageable sections.
• Metal cuts: EMT, copper, and galvanized pipe when paired with the right blade and lower speed settings.
• Overhead and awkward positions: the weight and counterbalance reduce fatigue compared to heavier saws.

What holds it back

• Power ceiling: 7.5 amps won’t keep pace with big demolition or thick structural cuts all day.
• Speed control preference: the dial is predictable but less nuanced than a purely progressive trigger.
• Features: no obvious orbital mode, rafter hook, light, or case. None are deal-breakers, but pros may miss them.

Who should buy it

If you’re a homeowner, DIYer, or remodeler who needs a reliable corded recip saw for periodic projects, the Skil is easy to recommend. It’s strong enough for real work, refined enough to keep vibration manageable, and simple to maintain. If you’re a tradesperson who leans on a recip saw daily for heavy demo, consider stepping up in amperage and features; you’ll gain speed in aggressive wood cuts and extras that matter on a jobsite.

Value

Corded tools live or die on the balance of power, durability, and cost. This Skil holds that balance well. You get a metal gear case, a genuinely useful counterbalance, a pivoting shoe, and a frustration-free blade change at a price that undercuts pro-class models by a wide margin. The compromises—lack of orbital, modest amp draw, and fewer extras—are sensible for the audience it serves.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil 7.5A recip saw for homeowners and light-duty pros who want a dependable, low-vibration saw for wood, PVC, and light metal without overspending. It’s comfortable to use, the tool-less chuck works as intended, and the pivoting shoe and counterbalance elevate it above bargain-bin options. If your work is heavy demolition or you demand orbital aggression and pro-tier power, look higher up the amp ladder. For everything else, this is a capable, well-built corded saw that earns its spot on the shelf.