DeWalt Hole Saw Pilot Drill Bit, 1/4"

Why this pilot bit earned a place in my hole saw kit

I spend a lot of time cutting clean holes through wood, sheet goods, and sheet metal, and the unsung hero in that task is the pilot bit. Over the past month, I’ve been using DeWalt’s 1/4-inch hex hole saw pilot bit, swapping it across a few different arbors and materials to see where it shines and where it falls short. It’s a simple accessory, but small details like tip geometry, shank shape, and overall length matter more than you might think.

Build, geometry, and what that means in use

This pilot bit is made from hardened high-speed steel (HSS) with a 135-degree split-point tip and a 1/4-inch hex shank. Each of those choices has practical implications:

• The hardened HSS holds up well against heat and abrasion in typical commercial work. It won’t replace cobalt or carbide in abusive stainless scenarios, but for wood, plastics, and mild steel it’s the right balance of toughness and cost.
• The 135-degree split-point matters in metal. It reduces the “chisel edge” and helps the point bite rather than skate, which translates to easier starts on smooth or painted surfaces.
• The 1/4-inch hex shank locks securely in arbors that clamp on flats, and it’s compatible with tool-free rapid-load systems. It also resists the subtle rotational slip you sometimes get with round shanks under higher torque.

The bit’s overall length is 4-1/4 inches. In practice, that gives you decent reach beyond the teeth on standard hole saws without feeling spindly. On deeper saws (2 inches), it still projects enough to start a hole confidently before the saw teeth engage.

One note: I came across inconsistent part numbers on packaging versus retailer listings. If you’re matching it to a specific arbor, confirm that your arbor takes a 1/4-inch hex pilot bit rather than a round shank.

Compatibility and setup

I ran the pilot bit with a DeWalt standard non-quick-change arbor and a tool-free rapid-load arbor. Fit was positive in both. It also worked with a Lenox mandrel I keep around, though check your specific model—older or off-brand arbors that were designed for round pilot bits won’t accommodate the hex shank.

Retention was solid using both a set-screw style and a spring clip. There was no tendency for the bit to pull out when backing a plug out or withdrawing from a thick sandwich of materials.

If you’re planning to run this in an impact driver via a quick-change chuck, you can, but I’d still recommend a drill with a clutch and speed control for hole saw work—better for the saw and easier on your wrists.

Starting accuracy and “walking”

On sheet steel (18 gauge and 14 gauge mild), the split point made a noticeable difference. Even without a center punch, I could start accurately with light pressure and low RPM. On painted or powder-coated surfaces, I still prefer a quick punch mark for precision, but I didn’t see the bit skate in normal conditions.

In wood and MDF, it starts quickly and tracks true. This is where a brad-point pilot might leave a cleaner face, but for a hole saw pilot, the 135-degree tip is a non-issue. In plywood and composites, the hole saw teeth, not the pilot, dictate tear-out; the pilot bit’s contribution is a straight, true lead hole.

On rounded or curved stock (think PVC pipe or mild steel conduit), the pilot tip bites more confidently than a 118-degree grind. I found I could commit at a shallow angle and roll the drill upright without the bit slipping off the curve, which helps when you can’t perfectly square up the work.

Cutting speed, heat, and wear

Pilot bits see more friction than most realize, especially in metal where they stay engaged ahead of the saw teeth. Running the saw at a reasonable speed and using a dab of cutting oil keeps the pilot from bluing. After a few sessions—dozens of holes in MDF and softwood, plus a handful in 14–18 gauge steel—the tip remained sharp and the cutting lips were intact. Edge life in mild steel was in line with what I expect from quality HSS.

On 304 stainless (18 gauge), it will do the job if you slow way down, use proper lubricant, and keep pressure steady. That said, if stainless is your primary material, stepping up to a cobalt pilot bit will reduce sharpening or replacement frequency. For occasional stainless work, this HSS bit is serviceable—just be conservative.

Runout and hole quality

I care a lot about runout in hole saw setups because even slight eccentricity can cause chatter, heat, and ugly holes. In my tests, the pilot bit ran true. Any visible wobble came down to the arbor or saw, not the pilot. The 1/4-inch hex interface engages cleanly; I didn’t get the micro-wobble you sometimes see with worn round-shank pilots in set-screw arbors. In plywood and painted sheet metal, starts were clean and centered, and the saw didn’t hunt around the mark.

Practical details and maintenance

• The black finish holds up reasonably well; it won’t stay pristine, but I didn’t see flaking.
• Sharpening: Because it’s a split point, sharpening is possible with the right jig or a practiced hand, but many pros treat pilot bits as consumables. If you’re comfortable touching up HSS, you can extend its life considerably.
• Storage: It’s a single piece, not part of a set, which I prefer—easy to replace or keep spares in the arbor case.
• Warranty: Accessories like this are typically considered consumables, and this one isn’t eligible for a warranty. Plan on it as a wear item.

Where it excels

• Starting holes in mild steel, aluminum, and painted surfaces without a center punch
• General carpentry and MEP work where you’re jumping between wood framing, PVC, and light-gauge metal
• Rapid changes between arbors and drivers thanks to the hex shank

Where it struggles

• Heavy stainless work (it can do it, but wear accelerates)
• Compatibility with older arbors designed strictly for round-shank pilots
• Ultra-clean face presentation in fine woodworking; it’s fine, but brad-point pilots are cleaner if that’s your priority

Tips for best results

• In metal, run slow and use cutting fluid. You’ll double the life of both the pilot bit and the saw.
• Even with a split point, a quick center punch improves precision on glossy coatings.
• Check your arbor set screw for wear. A rounded set screw will compromise how securely any pilot bit is held, hex or not.
• Back the saw out periodically to clear chips; it reduces heat at the pilot tip.

The bottom line

The DeWalt pilot bit is a straightforward, well-executed accessory that prioritizes the features that matter—split-point geometry, a durable HSS body, and a positive 1/4-inch hex interface. It starts accurately in metal, tracks true in wood, and holds up to typical jobsite abuse. It doesn’t try to be a specialty piece; instead, it does the everyday things right.

I appreciate that it slots into both standard non-quick-change arbors and rapid-load setups without fuss. The length is sensible, retention is secure, and runout was a non-issue in my testing. You’ll still want cobalt if stainless is your bread and butter, and you’ll want to confirm your arbor accepts hex pilots. Beyond those caveats, it’s the kind of dependable consumable I like to keep two of in the case: one in the arbor, one as a backup.

Recommendation: I recommend this pilot bit for anyone who uses hole saws across mixed materials—wood, plastics, and mild steel—especially if you value clean starts and quick changes. It offers reliable performance, good durability for HSS, and broad compatibility at a price that makes sense for a wear item. If you’re predominantly drilling stainless or using legacy arbors that require a round shank, look elsewhere; otherwise, this is an easy yes.