Tuff Coat UT-113 Medium Gray - 1 Gallon: Medium Texture, Non-Submersible, Water-Based, Rubberized Non-Skid Coating

What it is and where it fits

Tuff Coat UT-113 is a water‑based, rubberized, medium‑texture non-skid coating designed for surfaces that won’t live underwater. Think pool decks, ramps, steps, locker rooms, utility trailers, and boat decks that stay above the waterline. It dries to a flexible matte film roughly 30–35 mils thick and uses recycled rubber granules for traction. I’ve put it to work on pressure-treated wood steps and a dog ramp, a steel utility trailer deck, and a small fiberglass platform. Across those use cases, the product consistently delivered excellent grip and a tidy, uniform appearance that hides imperfections far better than any grit‑in‑paint option I’ve tried.

Prep matters more than usual

Because this coating builds thickness and incorporates rubber aggregate, surface prep is non-negotiable.

• Wood: I sanded with 60–80 grit to knock down fuzz and open the grain. On new pressure-treated lumber, I let the wood acclimate and dry thoroughly.
• Metal: I degreased, wire-brushed, and spot‑primed bare steel to prevent flash rust.
• Fiberglass/gelcoat: A thorough scuff with 80–100 grit and a full solvent wipe ensured a clean mechanical profile.

On porous or challenging surfaces, I’ve had the best long‑term results pairing UT-113 with the manufacturer’s two‑part epoxy primer. It’s not a “nice to have”—it dramatically improves adhesion and seals substrates like wood so the topcoat can build properly. Note the primer’s short pot life; I mix partial batches to avoid waste and always wear gloves. Once the primer tacks off within the recoat window, UT‑113 goes on without drama.

A masking note for smooth gelcoat: choose a high‑quality, UV‑resistant painter’s tape and remove it methodically while the coating is still green or just after final set—don’t leave it to bake in the sun. On one test area, I pulled tape too late and the adhesive left a stubborn residue on the gelcoat border that took mechanical persuasion to remove. Test your tape on a scrap or inconspicuous area first.

Mixing and tools: don’t shortcut this

The rubber granules sink to the bottom of the can. Hand‑stirring won’t cut it. I use a drill-mounted mixing paddle and bring the can to a full, even blend—right to the corners and bottom—before pouring into a tray. Plan to re‑mix each time you refill; a quick spin with the paddle keeps the aggregate suspended and your color consistent.

For application, the dedicated Tuff Coat roller is worth it. The honeycombed foam grabs and releases the rubber granules evenly in a way standard nap rollers don’t. For larger decks, a low‑pressure hopper gun gives an extremely uniform texture and speeds the job, but masking becomes more important.

Application workflow that works

My best results have come from a “build in layers” approach:

1. Prime (where appropriate) and let it reach the recommended tack/cure window.
2. First coat of UT-113 serves as a base—aim for full coverage rather than maximum texture.
3. Subsequent coats add texture and thickness. Two full coats are sufficient for light foot traffic; I go to three or four on ramps and trailer decks where traction is paramount.
4. Maintain a wet edge, roll in two directions where possible, and backroll any heavy aggregate piles.
5. Re-mix the tray frequently.

Dry times are quick in warm weather—touch‑dry within minutes—so you can progress without long waits. Full cure takes longer; I avoid heavy traffic for a couple of days, longer in cool or humid conditions.

The finish: grippy, forgiving, and easy on the eyes

Once cured, the texture is what I’d call medium‑aggressive: plenty of bite underfoot—even wet—without feeling like sandpaper. Dogs, bare feet, and soft‑soled shoes are all comfortable. The matte finish is consistent and does a remarkably good job hiding old scuffs, patched screw holes, and minor waves in plywood or fiberglass. On the metal trailer, it quieted the deck slightly and eliminated that slick‑when‑wet problem that comes with smooth paint.

The Medium Gray reads as a neutral “work gray”—neither bluish nor warm—smart for utility spaces and easy to keep looking clean. It also pairs well with bright safety edges if you’re striping treads or nosings.

Durability and maintenance

UV and chemical resistance have been solid. Months of sun exposure haven’t chalked or faded the color in any noticeable way, and the surface shrugged off chlorine splashes near a pool and common cleaners on the trailer (car soap, mild degreaser). The coating is flexible, so I haven’t seen the brittle chipping that plagues grit‑additive paints on flexing substrates. If you gouge it, spot repairs are simple: clean, scuff, re‑mix, and dab on a patched coat. Because it’s water‑based, clean‑up is straightforward if you don’t let it dry on your tools.

One caveat: this is a non‑submersible product. It handles wet conditions just fine, but I wouldn’t use it for constantly submerged steps or below the waterline.

Coverage and cost realities

Expect lower coverage than typical architectural paints; you’re building a thick, textured film. Real‑world coverage varies with surface porosity and desired traction, but heavier coats (which I prefer for ramps and trailers) do consume material quickly. My trailer deck and ramp took more product than I initially estimated. Budget your gallons with some headroom and plan your coat count around the most demanding area of your project.

As for cost, UT‑113 sits at the premium end. The tradeoff is performance, longevity, and safety. If you simply need a cheap, mildly grippy layer, there are less expensive ways to throw sand into generic paint—but they don’t level as nicely, wear as evenly, or hold up as well under UV and regular cleaning.

Pitfalls to avoid

• Skipping primer on porous or challenging surfaces. You can get it to stick, but long‑term durability suffers.
• Under‑mixing the can. If you see color variation or “bald” patches of texture, that’s a mixing or re‑mixing issue.
• Using the wrong roller. Standard rollers won’t distribute the granules evenly.
• Leaving masking on too long, especially over smooth gelcoat. Pull it at the right time and use quality tape.
• Applying a single heavy coat to “get it done.” Multiple thinner builds provide better texture control and fewer sags.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and facility managers who need reliable slip resistance on decks, steps, and pool surrounds.
• Trailer owners who want durable traction without messing with stick‑on grip tape.
• DIYers upgrading ramps or accessibility paths where safety and comfort matter.
• Marine users treating above‑waterline decks and platforms.

If you need a submersible or solvent‑borne system, or if your budget can’t stretch beyond commodity paint with grit, look elsewhere.

The bottom line

Tuff Coat UT‑113 does what non‑skid coatings should: it adds real, repeatable traction, looks tidy, and holds up to weather and cleaning without turning brittle. It asks for proper prep, thoughtful masking, and patience with mixing, but it rewards that effort with a forgiving finish that hides flaws and stays comfortable underfoot. It’s not the cheapest route, and coverage per gallon can surprise first‑timers, yet the end result is a safer surface that doesn’t broadcast “DIY fix.”

Recommendation: I recommend UT‑113 for any non‑submersible surface where slip resistance is a priority and you’re willing to follow a disciplined prep and application process. The combination of a flexible, matte build; dependable grip; low odor and water cleanup; and real UV/chemical resilience justifies the price for ramps, decks, steps, and trailer floors. If you need underwater performance or you plan to rush prep and skip primer, this isn’t your product—but for the applications it’s designed for, it’s an effective, durable upgrade.