Newhouse Hardware Electric 2-Tone Door Bell Chime Kit with 16V 10VA Transformer and Lighted Doorbell Push Buttons CKIT1, Doorbell Button, Transformer, and Doorbell Chime Replacement

Why I picked up this kit

I needed a straightforward, wired doorbell for a modest retrofit—something that wouldn’t send me into smart-home rabbit holes or require a multiday install. The Newhouse kit promised the basics done right: a mechanical two-note chime, a pair of lighted push buttons, and a 16V/10VA transformer in one box. No separate parts to match, no guesswork on compatibility for a standard wired setup. That’s exactly what I wanted to test: a simple, reliable, “install it and forget it” doorbell.

What’s in the box

• Two-note mechanical chime (front and rear inputs)
• Two lighted doorbell push buttons
• 16V, 10VA low-voltage transformer
• Basic mounting hardware and instructions

You’ll need to supply low-voltage bell wire (18AWG is typical), wire connectors, a drill/driver, and a voltage tester. If you’re replacing an existing wired system, you likely have the wire already in place.

Installation experience

I set the chime where the old unit lived—central hallway, about head height. It mounted easily and sat flush; the plastic cover is clean and minimal, the kind that blends rather than decorates. The wiring is as basic as it gets: transformer leads to the “TRANS” terminals, front button to “FRONT,” rear button to “REAR,” with a shared return. The labels are clear, and the screw terminals have enough room to land 18AWG conductors without fighting the plate.

The transformer install is the only step that demands care. It’s designed to mount to a standard electrical box or panel knockout, and it must be tied into 120VAC on the primary side. I shut off the breaker, confirmed with a tester, and terminated the primary to a dedicated circuit in a junction box. This isn’t a high-skill job, but it is mains voltage—if you’re not comfortable, it’s worth calling an electrician. The low-voltage side then runs to the chime and buttons.

From unboxing to a working system, a straight replacement took about 45 minutes. A fresh install—running new bell wire to two doors—adds time, but the kit itself doesn’t slow you down.

Pro tip: label the front and rear conductors as you pull them, and mount the chime on a rigid surface. Mechanical chimes rely on a plunger and tuned bars; a wobbly mount can rob it of volume and tone.

Sound and performance

This is a classic mechanical unit, and it behaves like one. The front door rings a pleasant “ding-dong” with a decent decay; the rear button triggers a single “ding” so you can tell which entrance is in use. It’s not orchestral or customizable, but that’s the point—simple and recognizable.

In a two-story, 1,700-square-foot space, the chime was clearly audible on both floors with doors closed. There’s no volume control, which is fine at this price point. If you have very thick walls or a larger footprint, plan your chime placement accordingly (central hallway or stairwell is ideal).

The push buttons are lighted, which is more useful than it sounds if your stoop is dim. The glow is subtle, not glaring, and it helps first-time visitors find the button without hunting around trim or siding.

Build quality and design

The chime body is basic but tidy, and the mechanism inside is standard solenoid-and-bar fare. As with most mechanical chimes, the long-term reliability hinges on stable mounting, correct voltage, and clean wiring. I didn’t observe any buzzing or mis-strikes once the transformer was in and the plungers had a clear throw. If you do hear a faint hum at idle, it’s often a sign of a marginal connection or a transformer mounted to a resonant surface—worth checking your terminations and mounting screws.

The included buttons are plastic and weather-resistant. They’re fine for most sheltered entries. If your doorways are fully exposed to weather, consider adding a dab of sealant around the cutout or upgrading to a more robust, gasketed button later; the kit still gets you up and running immediately.

Power and compatibility notes

The transformer delivers 16VAC at 10VA, which is the sweet spot for a single mechanical chime and two buttons on typical wire runs. It’s exactly what most legacy doorbells used and works as intended here. If you’re thinking about add-ons—second chimes, long cable runs, or accessories—keep in mind that 10VA is not a high-capacity supply. For traditional doorbell use, it’s appropriate. For anything more, you may need a higher-VA transformer.

On smart doorbells: the kit is designed for conventional mechanical buttons and chimes. Some video doorbells draw power continuously and can be picky about load and transformer headroom. In my testing, a battery-assisted video doorbell would ring the chime, but charging was inconsistent and the transformer didn’t have much margin when the chime fired. I wouldn’t rely on this kit for a primary video doorbell power source. If smart hardware is your main goal, start with the doorbell maker’s recommended transformer and chime or use the vendor’s chime adapter.

Everyday use

Once installed, the system fades into the background—and that’s the job. The chime is quick to respond, reliably differentiates front from rear, and the tone is neutral enough that no one in the house finds it intrusive. The lighted buttons are a thoughtful touch for evening arrivals. There’s nothing to configure, no app to babysit, and zero latency or network dependencies. If your Wi-Fi goes down, your doorbell still works.

Where it fits—and where it doesn’t

This kit shines in a few scenarios:
- Replacing an aging wired doorbell with a one-box solution
- Finishing a renovation where the doorbell wiring was roughed in but never completed
- Rental units where you want simplicity, serviceability, and low cost
- Homes where a mechanical chime is preferred over electronic tones

It’s not ideal if:
- You want a loud, multi-zone or multi-tone electronic chime with volume controls
- You’re powering a power-hungry video doorbell or multiple accessories
- You need a highly weatherproof, metal push button from day one

Tips for the best result

• Use 18/2 for a single button, 18/3 if you’re wiring front and rear; keep runs tidy and avoid splices where possible.
• Mount the transformer to a proper junction box and turn off the breaker before working. Tie ground securely in the box as required by code.
• Keep the chime upright per the instructions—orientation matters for proper “ding-dong” action.
• If your previous system had a diode across the button (common with some electronic chimes), remove it for this mechanical unit.
• If you ever hear weak strikes, verify the transformer output with a meter; long runs or undersized wire can cause voltage drop.

The bottom line

The Newhouse kit does exactly what a standard wired doorbell should do, with minimal fuss and at a sensible price. The two-note mechanical chime sounds clean, the lighted buttons improve usability at night, and the included transformer takes the guesswork out of matching parts. Installation is approachable for any competent DIYer, and once installed, it’s reliable and maintenance-free.

There are compromises: no volume control, very basic aesthetics, and a transformer that’s sized for traditional use rather than smart-home ambitions. But evaluated on its brief—an all-in-one wired doorbell kit—it succeeds.

Recommendation

I recommend this kit for homeowners who want a dependable, no-nonsense wired doorbell with front/rear differentiation and a straightforward install. It’s a solid replacement for older systems or a clean starting point for new low-voltage runs. If your plan centers on a video doorbell or advanced features, look to a higher-VA transformer and a chime approved by the smart doorbell manufacturer. For everyone else, this kit delivers the right balance of simplicity, performance, and value.