Newhouse Hardware Two-Note Electric Modern Door Chime Kit

Why I switched to a wired chime again

After a few years bouncing between battery-powered doorbells and smart gadgets that never quite integrated the way I wanted, I went back to basics and installed a simple hardwired chime. The Newhouse chime kit hit the sweet spot: it’s straightforward, includes everything I needed (chime, transformer, and two lighted push-buttons), and it supports two doors with distinct tones. My goal was a reliable, wired ring inside the house that could also play nicely with a video doorbell at the front—ideally without fussing with hubs or proprietary bridges.

What’s in the box and first impressions

The kit includes:
- A low-profile chime unit (about 9.13 x 5.38 x 1.5 inches) in white
- A UL-certified 16VAC/10VA transformer
- Two surface-mount, lighted push-buttons (about 7/8 x 5/8 x 2-3/4 inches), also in white
- Basic hardware

The chime cover is clean and modern—plain in a good way. It doesn’t try to be a design statement like the older wooden-box models, but it fades into the wall and looks tidy over a standard electrical box. The lighted buttons give off a gentle glow that’s helpful at night without looking gaudy.

Build-wise, it’s lightweight and utilitarian. If you’re expecting a heavy cast-resonator unit, this isn’t that. The internals are the familiar two-plunger setup: one plunger strikes two notes for the front door, the other plunger strikes a single note for the back. Sometimes that’s exactly what you want: a simple mechanical design that’s easy to diagnose and service.

Installation: as no-drama as it gets

I cut power at the breaker, verified with a non-contact tester, and mounted the transformer to a nearby junction box. It’s rated 16VAC/10VA—adequate for a single chime run and one wired video doorbell in most homes. If you plan to run multiple accessories or very long wire runs, keep in mind some smart doorbells prefer a 16–24VAC transformer with up to 30VA capacity. For a straightforward setup, the included transformer is a practical start.

The chime body can mount to an electrical box via the threaded connector or directly to the wall with screws. I used the threaded option so I could tuck wiring neatly. The wiring is simple:
- Transformer leads go to “TRANS” and common
- Front door to “FRONT” and common
- Back door to “REAR” and common

Labeling your existing wires before removal helps a lot. On older homes, don’t assume color equals function—trace or test.

The included surface-mount buttons are compact and easy to fit on a door frame. They have two screw terminals, and the lamp doesn’t require any special handling beyond the standard two-wire run back to the transformer/chime circuit. If you’re replacing a much larger button, expect to touch up paint or install a small plate.

From power-off to working chimes was under an hour, including mounting the new transformer. If you’re comfortable with basic household wiring and code-safe practices, it’s a very approachable DIY job. If not, an electrician can knock it out quickly.

Sound and volume

For the front door, the chime plays a clear two-note melody; the rear door triggers a single note. That distinction matters more than I expected. I always know which door to head to without checking my phone or camera feed.

Volume is “household practical.” In my tests, it came through clearly on the same floor and was audible, though less prominent, one floor up. I measured roughly mid-70s dBA from three feet in a quiet room. There’s no volume control or alternative melody, which keeps things simple but means you’ll want to pick the mounting location with room acoustics in mind. Placing it on a firm interior wall (not a hollow panel) helps the notes carry without rattling.

Importantly, there was no mechanical buzz or coil hum once mounted securely and leveled. If you do hear a faint buzz, check that the cover isn’t touching the plungers, the mounting screws aren’t over-tightened, and the transformer isn’t under- or overloading the circuit.

Compatibility with smart doorbells

I tested the front-door circuit with a wired video doorbell to ensure the chime would ring and the doorbell would trickle-charge. With a proper wiring adapter (some models include or require a chime “puck” or “pro power kit”), it worked exactly as expected: the chime rings like a conventional doorbell, and the camera stays powered. As always, follow the doorbell manufacturer’s wiring diagram—some require a diode at the button or a specific inline module.

If you’re in a 220–240V region, you’ll need a mains step-down to supply the included 16VAC transformer or an equivalent 16–24VAC doorbell transformer rated appropriately for local code. The chime itself only sees the low-voltage AC.

Day-to-day experience

• The lighted buttons are bright enough to find at night without being a beacon. They’ve stayed consistently illuminated and haven’t introduced any chime chatter.
• The chime reliably distinguishes front vs. back with zero misfires.
• The cover snaps on and off easily for cleaning, and the internals are accessible for inspection.
• The tone is on the neutral/pleasant side—more classic “ding-dong” than digital chirp.

I don’t miss having multiple melodies or app-controlled volume. In practice, the straightforward clarity is better. The only feature I occasionally wish for is a quick mute switch for naptime; my workaround is a small in-line toggle on the front circuit, but that’s beyond what most people need.

Limitations and quirks

• No volume control. If you want adjustable loudness or a selection of tones, look to a digital chime.
• Plastic housing. It looks fine, but it’s not a premium finish. On a white wall, it blends in; on a darker wall, it stands out more.
• Transformer capacity. The included 10VA unit is suitable for basic setups. If you add long wire runs or power-hungry accessories, you may want a 16–24VAC transformer with more VA headroom.
• Mechanical orientation matters. Keep the chime vertically oriented, level, and not pinched by the cover; otherwise the plungers may not travel freely, affecting tone or causing a dull strike.

Installation tips from the bench

• Test your existing transformer before you start. A simple multimeter check for 16–18VAC at the secondary saves guesswork.
• Label wires at the old chime before removal. “Front,” “Rear,” and “Trans/Common” tags prevent crossed leads.
• Mount on a solid surface. A firm backing improves tone and reduces resonant buzz.
• Leave a small service loop in the wiring behind the cover so you can remove it without straining the terminals.
• For smart doorbells, don’t skip the manufacturer’s chime adapter if they call for one. It protects the device and ensures proper ring cadence.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners who want a dependable, wired chime with distinct front/back tones.
• Anyone adding a wired video doorbell and wanting a physical chime that just works.
• People who prefer simple hardware over app-managed accessories.

It’s less ideal if you want multi-melody choices, volume knobs, or an ultra-decorative cover. For that, you’ll need a fancier digital unit or a designer mechanical chime.

The bottom line

The Newhouse chime kit is exactly what a lot of homes need: a no-frills, hardwired chime with a clean two-note front and a one-note rear, a UL-rated transformer in the box, and lighted buttons that are easy to install. It’s straightforward to wire, compatible with popular wired video doorbells when installed correctly, and it rings with a clear, recognizable tone that carries through a typical home.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for anyone who wants a reliable, affordable wired door chime that supports two entrances and plays nicely with modern wired doorbells. It’s not feature-rich, but that’s part of its appeal—fewer settings, fewer surprises, and a dependable ring every time. If you need volume control, designer aesthetics, or extra transformer capacity for a complex setup, consider a higher-end alternative; otherwise, this one gets the fundamentals right.