DeWalt 1/8" Hex Shank Drill Bit

Why I reached for this 1/8-in hex bit

A lot of my small installs live and die by the speed of a bit change. Swapping from drilling a pilot hole to driving a screw—over and over—adds up. That’s the appeal of this 1/8-in hex bit from DeWalt: it slots straight into a quick-change chuck, so I can bounce between drilling and driving without futzing with a three-jaw chuck every few minutes. I used it across a week of light cabinetry, bracket installs, and a handful of sheet-metal tasks, and it settled into my kit faster than I expected.

Design and build

This is a straightforward HSS twist bit with a black oxide finish and a split-point tip. The hex shank is the headline feature. It locks confidently into quick-release holders and driver-style chucks without slipping, which you’ll appreciate if you’ve ever polished a round shank slick in a keyless chuck. The overall length is about 3-1/2 inches, with a working length around 1-1/2 inches. That slightly shorter flute section (compared to a full jobber-length 1/8-in bit) is the tradeoff you make for the hex shank. It’s not a problem for typical pilot holes, but it’s worth noting if you regularly drill deeper than an inch and change.

The split-point tip aims to reduce walking and improve centering, which is especially useful in thin sheet metal and on slick coatings. The black oxide finish is there for wear and corrosion resistance. It’s not a miracle coating, but it helps shed chips and ward off surface rust.

In wood: clean, quick, predictable

This size is a bread-and-butter pilot for #6–#8 screws and small hardware. In pine and poplar, the bit tracked straight, started quickly, and ejected chips cleanly. I drilled around 40 pilot holes for cabinet pulls and hinges without noticing any meaningful dulling. In birch plywood and maple, it stayed on line without burning, as long as I kept the speed sensible and backed the bit out to clear chips on deeper holes. Tear-out was minimal on the exit when I used a backer; without a backer on plywood, the exit was typical for a twist bit—fine for a pilot, but not furniture-grade.

If you’re primarily a woodworker, a brad-point bit will leave a cleaner entrance hole. That said, for mixed-material days and general site work, this bit’s split-point started accurately enough that I didn’t feel the need to switch to brad points.

In metal: stable starts, reasonable life

On mild steel (16–18 gauge) and aluminum extrusion, the split point did what it should: it reduced skating and got the hole started where I center-punched. With a drop of cutting oil and steady pressure, I drilled a couple dozen holes without re-sharpening. The bit stayed straight in a quick-change chuck, and I didn’t get the classic “squeal and walk” that cheaper tips sometimes inflict.

A few notes on technique that helped:
- Keep the speed moderate in steel. For 1/8 inch, around 2000–3000 RPM is fine in mild steel with oil if your tool allows it.
- Use light pecking to clear chips. This reduces heat and keeps the edge from glazing.
- Center-punch your mark. The split point helps, but metal still rewards a dimple.

This isn’t a cobalt or titanium-nitride bit, and it behaves accordingly. It’s perfectly serviceable for mild steel and aluminum; it’s not ideal for stainless. I tried a couple test holes in 304 and quickly decided to spare it the punishment—wrong bit for that material.

Accuracy and runout

With a quality quick-change holder, I saw very little runout. Holes were round and on size in wood; in metal they came out just a hair over nominal, which is normal for hand drilling. In a cheaper quick-change chuck, I noticed a touch more wobble—still serviceable, but if you’re chasing precision, your holder matters as much as the bit. The hex shank itself seats securely and never slipped or spun under load.

Coating and durability

Black oxide remains a pragmatic choice for general-purpose work. It’s not as slick or heat-resistant as TiN on steel, and it won’t outlast cobalt in abrasive metals, but it resists surface rust in a damp kit and avoids the “chip welding” I see with bare HSS in aluminum. After my workweek, the cutting lips were still crisp. Edges in steel softened slightly but responded to a light touch-up on a drill doctor. If you don’t sharpen your small bits, expect a long, useful life in wood and aluminum and a respectable run in mild steel.

Compatibility and use

The hex shank plays nicely with quick-change drill/driver chucks and bit holders. That makes it a natural fit for jobs where you alternate between drilling and driving. In a traditional three-jaw chuck it’s fine as well; the hex flanks give the jaws a positive grip. One upside to the hex is the end of “chuck slip” on high-torque starts. One downside is loss of flute length, as mentioned. If you routinely drill deeper holes or use drill stops, double-check your required depth; the working length tops out around 1-1/2 inches.

I kept this in a driver with a quick-change chuck for most tasks. It’s not marketed as an “impact-ready” bit. While many users run hex-shank drill bits in impact drivers for light work, I stick to a drill/driver for smoother starts and longer edge life.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Quick, secure changes in a hex-based setup
- Split-point starts confidently on wood, painted surfaces, and sheet metal
- Good chip evacuation for a small diameter
- Predictable performance with modest maintenance
- Backed by a 30-day money-back guarantee for peace of mind

Limitations:
- Shorter flute length caps practical hole depth
- Black oxide HSS isn’t the right choice for stainless or hardened steels
- As a single bit, it’s easy to misplace; consider a sleeve or holder
- Twist-point, not brad-point—woodworkers seeking pristine entry holes may prefer a brad-point bit

Tips to get the most from it

• Mark metal with a center punch, even with the split point—it improves accuracy and extends edge life.
• Use a drop of oil in steel and a light pecking motion to control heat.
• Back the bit out in deeper wooden pilots to clear chips and avoid burnishing the hole.
• If you rely on quick-change holders, invest in a good one; it reduces runout and wobble.

The bottom line

This 1/8-in hex bit is a no-drama, do-the-work accessory that earns its keep in a quick-change workflow. It starts reliably, runs true in a quality holder, and handles the bread-and-butter mix of wood and mild steel that most installs and shop tasks demand. You can find tougher bits for hostile metals and cleaner bits for fine joinery, but as an everyday pilot-hole specialist that lives in a drill/driver, it’s exactly what I want: simple, predictable, and fast to deploy.

Recommendation: I recommend it for anyone who works out of a quick-change setup and needs a dependable 1/8-in pilot bit for wood, aluminum, and mild steel. If you routinely drill stainless, chase ultra-clean entry holes in fine hardwoods, or need deeper reach, look to a cobalt or brad-point alternative—or a jobber-length round-shank bit. For everyone else, this one fits smoothly into the rhythm of real-world drilling and driving, and it stays sharp long enough to justify a spot in the kit.