DeWalt 5-1/2 in. 30T Metal Cutting Circular Saw Blade (114mm)

Why I reached for this blade

Compact metal-cutting circular saws are a staple in my kit for shop and site work, but they live or die by the blade you put on them. Over the past few months I’ve been running the DeWalt 5-1/2-in metal‑cutting blade (model DWA7760) on a cordless saw for a mix of jobs—mainly aluminum extrusion, copper bus, and brass bar stock, with some cautious forays into thin stainless sheet. It’s a 30‑tooth, tungsten‑carbide‑tipped blade with a thin 0.091‑in kerf, laser‑cut plate, and the usual DeWalt touches like color‑coded etching and expansion slots. On paper it looks purpose‑built for non‑ferrous work; in practice, it’s a well‑mannered cutter that rewards decent technique with clean, repeatable results.

Design details that matter

A lot of small blades are an afterthought; this one isn’t. The plate is laser‑cut and feels properly balanced—no noticeable flutter on spin‑up, which is impressive for a compact diameter. The expansion slots do their job: heat moves out and the blade stays true. I also appreciate the anti‑stick rim. Aluminum chip‑weld is the enemy of good cuts, and anything that slows down gum‑up buys you time between cleanings.

The tooth geometry is what you expect for non‑ferrous: a stout carbide with a triple‑chip style grind that resists grabbing in softer metals. At 30 teeth on a 5‑1/2‑in circle, you’re in a good middle ground—clean enough on sheet and extrusions, but not so fine that feed rates bog down in 1/8‑in and 3/16‑in stock.

Setup and compatibility

I ran the blade on a compact, 5‑1/2‑in, metal‑cutting circular saw. Arbor fit was snug, plate runout was effectively negligible by dial indicator (well under 0.002 in at the rim), and there was no tinkering needed to get it tracking right. If you’re coming from a wood blade, two reminders:

• Use the right baseplate or shoe with an intact lower guard; metal chips require full coverage.
• Keep a stick of cutting wax within reach. The anti‑stick rim helps, but lubricant is still worth it on aluminum and copper.

Cutting performance across materials

• Aluminum: Most of my cuts were on 6061‑T6 and 5052. On 1/16‑in sheet, the blade leaves a crisp edge with a light, uniform burr that wipes off with a single pass of a deburring tool. On 1/8‑in plate and T‑slot extrusion, feed pressure can be assertive without bogging the saw. I didn’t encounter the chatter that cheaper small‑diameter blades sometimes produce, which I credit to both the plate stiffness and the expansion slots keeping things quiet.

• Brass: On 3/16‑in flat bar and small architectural profiles, the triple‑chip grind shines. The blade tracks straight and resists self‑feeding. Surface finish is bright, with minimal tearout at the exit when the work is fully supported. I still tape the exit side on decorative pieces out of habit.

• Copper: Cuts on 1/8‑in bus are clean and controllable. Copper wants to smear; a quick touch of wax on the rim every few cuts kept the teeth clean, and the anti‑stick feature seemed to slow down buildup between applications.

• Thin stainless: Although this blade is tuned for non‑ferrous, I tested it on light‑gauge 304 sheet (around 0.040 in) with conservative feed, full PPE, and support under the cut. It managed fine, stayed cool, and left a straighter edge than an abrasive disc. I would not make a habit of using it for thick or frequent stainless work, but for occasional thin‑gauge tasks it got me through without drama.

Cut quality, heat, and noise

Metal cutting is never whisper‑quiet, but the DWA7760 is notably calm for a compact blade. The slots mute the higher‑pitch ring, and the saw’s tone stays consistent as the cut progresses, which is a good sign that the plate isn’t walking under heat. Edges on non‑ferrous stock come off with a light burr only; I rarely needed more than a quick pass with a deburring tool or Scotch‑Brite.

Heat management is solid. The thin kerf pays off here—the saw removes less material, so chips carry heat away rather than pumping it into the workpiece. On back‑to‑back cuts in 1/8‑in aluminum, I could still comfortably handle the work with gloves, and the blade didn’t exhibit the blueing or odor you get when a plate starts to cook.

Durability and wear

Edge life is the real measure. After a mix of dozens of cuts across aluminum extrusion, 1/8‑in plate, brass bar, and copper bus, the carbide still passes the fingernail test sharp. Under a loupe, the tips show expected micro‑polishing but no chips or gross rounding. The plate remains flat; no permanent warp after extended use. I had to clean the teeth a couple of times as a precaution—build‑up is inevitable in aluminum—but the anti‑stick rim slows the march toward gum‑up enough that cleaning becomes a scheduled task rather than an emergency.

Compared to bargain import blades I’ve kept around for rough work, this one runs longer between cleanings and holds a cleaner edge through the same stack of cuts. That reduces downtime, which matters more than the small premium you pay up front.

Power draw and runtime

On a cordless metal‑cutting saw, the thin 0.091‑in kerf translates to gentler load on the motor. In practical terms, I gained a noticeable bump in runtime versus older, thicker‑kerf blades—enough to complete an extra series of crosscuts on extrusion before swapping batteries. If you’re cutting all day, those small gains add up.

Best practices to get the most from it

• Support the work fully and keep the exit edge tight to a sacrificial board to minimize exit burrs.
• Use wax or a light, non‑spray lubricant on aluminum and copper; a quick touch every 3–5 cuts keeps the teeth clear.
• Let the blade do the work. If you feel the saw start to surge, back off and clear chips. Forcing the feed is how you chip carbide.
• Clean the blade before you notice performance drop. A plastic‑safe cleaner and a brass brush are enough.

Where it falls short

• Stainless is not its home turf. Light‑gauge work is manageable with care, but for regular stainless or mild steel, I’d switch to a blade rated specifically for ferrous cutting.
• The 30‑tooth count on a small diameter is a smart compromise, but on super‑thin non‑ferrous sheet you can still get a hint of vibration at the start of the cut if the work isn’t clamped well. A finer‑tooth dedicated sheet blade would be even cleaner—but at the cost of speed.
• Price is on the premium side. You’re paying for a well‑made plate and quality carbide. In my experience the longevity offsets the cost, but it’s not the cheapest ticket in the aisle.

Who it’s for

• Fabricators and installers who routinely cut aluminum extrusions, plate, and trims.
• Electricians and solar or switchgear techs dealing with copper bus and hardware.
• Makers and sign shops working brass accents and non‑ferrous sheet.
• Anyone running a compact metal‑cutting circular saw who wants predictable, repeatable cuts without fiddling.

If your work skews heavily into stainless or mild steel, especially beyond light gauge, I’d put this blade in the “occasional use” column and keep a dedicated ferrous‑cutting blade on hand.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 5‑1/2‑in metal‑cutting blade for anyone prioritizing clean, controlled cuts in aluminum, brass, and copper on a compact saw. It runs true, stays sharp longer than most small‑diameter options, and the combination of a balanced plate, expansion slots, and an anti‑stick rim makes day‑to‑day use smoother and safer. While it can pinch‑hit on thin stainless with careful technique, it’s at its best on non‑ferrous stock. If that matches your workload, the higher initial cost makes sense—you get better cut quality, less downtime for cleaning, and less strain on a cordless saw. For heavy ferrous work, choose a blade purpose‑built for that material and keep this one ready for when non‑ferrous precision matters.